Showing posts with label Belt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Belt. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Outfit Post: The Building Blocks

It’s been a while since I’ve thrown up an outfit post, and even longer since I’ve featured a more dressed-up look, so I figured it was about time. However, I’m taking a slightly different approach this time, as I was hoping to focus on and share my usual method for building an outfit.

A lot of guys (including myself, at one point), get to a point where they have the sartorial education/know-how to put together a strong wardrobe of well-fitting, stylish pieces, but struggle to put them together into a coherent outfit. One of the most common questions I see is “where do I start?” With that in mind, here’s how I do it.

I try to start every outfit with one piece. This may be a new article of clothing that I’m really excited to wear or an old one that I’ve been meaning to work back into my rotation. It may be a bold, statement piece, or a neutral base. It might be as front-and-center as a blazer, or as behind-the-scenes as a pair of socks or pocket square. The point is, this piece acts as the foundation for the rest of the building blocks that will come together to form my outfit.


For this look, I started with my blue and off-white plaid blazer from Gagliardi. It’s one of my favorite pieces, from the fit to the construction to the style, but I wear it far less than I would like, simply because the bold pattern makes it trickier to match (and a little less office-friendly). This weekend, I dressed up my off-duty look a bit more than I have been this summer, and decided it would be a good chance to have the freedom to rock this bad boy. So boom, foundation piece and starting point:


From there, every decision comes back to this one piece. You could go any direction, but I went to pants next. While I didn’t have the restrictions of an office dress code to work with, the blazer is still pretty in-your-face, as far as style goes. Therefore, I decided right away to tone down the rest of my pieces. I also wanted to dress down the tailored look a bit, since it was still the weekend. Thus, for pants, the easy choice was a pair of dark blue jeans: a subtle and neutral pair of pants that were casual enough for the occasion but sharp enough for the combination, and in a blue that will play well with the colors in the jacket:

When it came to the shirt, the patterned blazer immediately dictated a solid shirt (or at the very least a very subtle pattern). Beyond that, I took the same mindset as I did with my pants, and picked what I consider to be the shirt equivalent of a pair of crisp blue jeans: a white OCBD. Again, weekend-casual, but fitting to wear with a tailored blazer. Where I played off the darker colors in the blazer when picking the jeans, this time around I brought out the lighter contrasting notes and picked a white shirt over blue:

From there, I just kept up those same themes as I picked out accessories and final touches. A knit cotton tie, a chambray pocket square, a brown belt and blue suede brogues with no-show socks. Each seems like (and is) a pretty straightforward choice, but if you look at the path that took me to each piece, it always starts with the blazer.




Of course, there are numerous other techniques and considerations to take into account: color-matching, pattern-matching, balance, seasonality, the list goes on and on (and some are mentioned throughout this article). However, starting with a foundation piece as we suggest here gives you the palette upon which you apply all of those other principles. It’s in no way the only factor in the equation, but it’s a strong and simple place to start.



Outfit Details:

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Incorporating Fall Colors

Every year, the style world decrees a color or two as The Color of the fall. On top of that, you have a small handful of staple seasonal colors that just work best in these cooling months. Now, you might think that working these colors into your every-day wear is easy, but I personally find it helpful to stick to at least some semblance of a method. Mainly, I try to keep purely seasonal selections away from my closet staples. Instead, I prefer to have a solid foundation of year-round foundation pieces (i.e. trousers and dress shirts), and then use my accessories and embellishments to turn those foundation pieces into a seasonal outfit. To help you folks do the same, I put together the following suggestions for incorporating two key colors into your wardrobe:

Forest Green - The Fashion World's Favorite Fall Color (this year):

This year, the aforementioned Color of the Season has been widely proclaimed to be a dark, woodsy green. Now, I do have a pair of forest green chinos that have actually turned out to be pretty versatile year-round, but when it comes to this particular fall favorite I tend to turn to layering options. Something about a dark green canvas jacket, cardigan, or shawl neck sweater is perfect for getting your office-ready outfit to exude a vibe that's a bit more campfire and bit less conference-call.

A pricier option, but this olive cable-knit is exactly what you're looking for.
The Green Byrne Shawl Sweater by Ledbury | $225 

You can keep these items versatile past the edges of fall, which is nice as well. When we start getting snow falling instead of leaves, layering is still your friend, if not more so. Come spring, you'll be back in transition mode and some green in your gear will help you look forward to fresh spring foliage.

Want something a bit subtler, and perhaps easier on the wallet? Try some knit gloves, scarves or hats.


Titletown Wool PLaid INset Gloves by Lands End | $80.00 $24.99
I tend to struggle picking these items out, as I don't want my gloves looking like an extension of my coat (in grey, brown or black), but also don't want to look like I have clown hands (bright colors, stripes, etc.). Here, I've found that a dark green is the perfect balance.

Other ideas: Been interested in trying out that camo trend? Get a subtle piece in a dark green motif to satisfy both leanings. I'm not big on the camo look myself, but I can be sold on certain pieces.

Camo Belt by J. Crew Factory | $29.50 $24.50
A slim tie, for example, or canvas belt, or nylon watch strap, can all be great touches to rough up a sharp casual look. Just keep it small and subtle.

I've also been dying to grab a dark green pocket square, and have one on the way from J. Crew right now. My preferred jacket colors come in various shades of brown and blue, both of which could benefit from a hint of forest green to bring the look down to earth.

(EDITORS NOTE: Forgot to mention, Peter Field also offers a great camo pocket square. Check it out here)

Burgundy - My Favorite Fall Color (every year):

As I've written in previous posts, my personal favorite fall color goes by many names: burgundy, oxblood, maroon, cordovan, etc. I love the warmth of this color, especially on cool fall days. Green evokes images of camping, blue of cool collegiate tailgates, but burgundy brings to mind that cozy feeling that you can't really get all summer without suffocating in the sweltering heat.

Anyways, my favorite way to incorporate this into an outfit is through your leather wear, largely because you can. Trying to get out of browns and blacks with shoes can be tricky. You can find some grey suedes, and these days navy blue leather is starting to pop up more often, but it's really hard to wear these as regularly as you would your standard leathers. Enter a pair of oxblood cap-toes (or even better, cap-toe boots).

The Melton Cap-Toe by Johnston & Murphy | $175.00
Not far enough from brown to stick out like a sore thumb, but just red enough to not fade into the woodwork, you also get the added benefit that oxblood shoes pair with a navy suit better than any other color leather. With my first navy suit on the way, a pair of oxblood Johnston & Murphy's was an easy choice for me this year. I found a pair just like the ones above for $30 on eBay. Woop woop.

If shoes are a bit out of your budget (even on eBay), scale down to a belt. This point may be arguable, but I don't find it entirely necessary to match oxblood leather with oxblood leather the same way I would brown or black shoes and belt.


Bernard Slim Belt by Frank and Oak | $45.00
Personally, I would have no problem wearing black shoes with a burgundy belt, or vice versa. The trick is to find two leathers that compliment but don't blend. You want contrast without clashing. Your best bet is trial and error...just keep trying combos until you find something that looks good. Sometimes it's just that simple.

Other Ideas:

I recently dove into the colored-laces world, and pretty quickly stepped back out. I think I caught the tail end of the trend and it's starting to feel overplayed. However, burgundy laces still find their way into my rotation pretty often.
Burgundy Shoelaces by The Tie Bar | $3.00

I think they look great with a pair of lighter-brown shoes. Once again, it's in the way the colors work together. The burgundy (as opposed to say, orange, or lime green) laces don't distract, but they give some visual variety. At the same time, they are just different enough from the brown leather to actually be noticeable, and not look like you're trying (but failing) to match.

If you're looking for something a bit more formal, just grab a burgundy tie and socks. Preferably a knit tie. I got one from The Tie Bar last fall, and never stopped wearing it. The very best kind of seasonal accessory: one you can wear all year long.


My final suggestion: Mix and match these two colors! Try oxblood shoes and belt, with a green tie or (or, not and) pocket square.

What are your go-to fall colors? Have any great seasonal buys on the way? Share in the comments!

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Easy Transitions

I've written before that my personal style, when I have full freedom to express it, rides the line between casual and formal. My lifestyle doesn't call for a whole lot of formal attire, but I like to dress up the casual pieces I wear in order to stand out and put my best foot forwards. This usually means something like jeans with a shirt and tie, patterned dress shirts instead of plain white or blue, or desert boots and chinos matched with a sport coat and tie.

Another reason I love to wear this kind of style, is that when you are balancing that line, it's easy to tip it in one direction or the other with just a few small changes. For example, yesterday I had a full day of work at the law firm, followed by the quickest of trips home before heading to a Deer Tick concert back downtown.

A few things to note: For those of you who don't know (but I'm sure most of you can imagine), the dress code at the law firm is definitely not casual. The specific firm I work for is much less strict than most, but jeans are not an option, collared shirts are required, and I personally wear a tie every day. Now, also for those of you who don't know, Deer Tick concerts can get just a wee bit rowdy. And I fucking love Deer Tick, so I'm not going to sit on the sidelines and quietly nod my head while John McCauley and co rock out onstage.

Therefore, yesterday's progression of events required some quick wardrobe changes. Here, the KEY word is 'quick.' Check out the before and after pictures, to see just how quick I was able to move from office to rock concert:

Here is the original office attire:



The transition really only took a few changes. First, I ditched the blazer, especially as I anticipated it to get a little warm in the crowded venue.


Before (Work Attire)
After (Concert Attire)
I did decide to stick with the tie. The concert was at a weirdly nice venue, considering how rough-edged Deer Tick can be, so I wanted to keep a little bit of class. I did lose the tie clip though, and unbuttoned my top button for a little looser of a look.

Next, I switched out the shiny black Allen Edmonds for my Clark's, which are much more durable and not quite as stiff (even though I think my AE's are pretty damn comfortable themselves). Most importantly, I won't care if (I mean WHEN) someone steps on my shoes.
Before (Work Attire)

After (Concert Attire)
Along with this, I also swapped the black dress belt for a more casual brown one that I've had for forever.

Before (Work Attire)

After (Concert Attire)
The final product was rock-ready, but still sharp (even if I look a bit dweebish in this picture...):



The great thing is, I could have taken this even farther without having to do much more. Swap out the grey chinos for a pair of jeans; rock a slim tee instead of the button-up; go tie-less, but keep the jacket. It really lets me judge the occasion and dress accordingly without having to stress out about having another entire outfit laundered, ironed, and ready to throw on in the 15 minutes I have at home. The changes are all minor, it's in no way a new outfit, but it's specifically adapted to the situation at hand.