Tie Clips - How To Wear 'Em Right

The tie clip has become one of my favorite accessories. Well, ties are probably my favorite accessory, and a tie clip just helps a good tie pack and even more potent punch (you’re welcome for that alliteration). It drives me crazy when my ties don’t hang straight or follow my placket just right (yep, I’m a bit OCD), and short of a vest or a cardigan (in which case a tie clip is just superfluous) a tie clip is the solution to keeping your neckwear in place. Additionally, the wide variety of colors, textures and lengths available today (I’m looking at you, TheTieBar.com) give the tie clip the versatility to dress-up or dress-down any outfit according to your needs.

BUT, as with most tools of the sartorial trade, a tie clip only works well when worn correctly. I mentioned in my previous post how much it bugs me that Pete Campbell wears his tie clip so ridiculously low on Mad Men (now, that may just be an accurate representation of 60’s style, but in todays day and age I think it makes a classy piece look silly). Same as finding the right tie length, this pet peeve of mine is just exacerbated by the fact that this is so easy to get right!

So what’s the trick? Find a balance between style and functionality and you’ll be all set. This means wearing your clip high enough that it looks fashionable, but low enough that it is actually serving a purpose. There are a few easy guidelines to follow. If you are wearing a blazer or jacket, you want to position your clip as low as you can before it begins to be obscured by your lapels.

Without a jacket, just pick a good spot between the third and fourth buttons of your shirt.

You do have a little flexibility, and I tend to exercise this based on my activity. If I’m rolling my sleeves up and moving around, I put it a tad lower to hold the tie in place a bit better. If I’m just sitting at my desk, I’ll cinch that bad boy up a few centimeters to accentuate the stylish aspect of the piece.

The only other solid rule is to NEVER wear a tie clip wider than your tie. Beyond that, feel free to experiment and find out what fits your style. I find that wider tie clips look a bit more formal, where a short (and potentially colorful) one inch clip adds some casual pizzazz. Likewise, shiny silver or gold clips = more formal, while matte and colored clips lend to casual. Remember to not only clip both ends of your tie but also the placket of your shirt (I always thought this was pretty intuitive, but I see so many other bloggers pointing this out that I guess it must be an issue). I wear my clips straight across, but other people set theirs at an angle, and really it’s a matter of personal preference. So go forth and clip!

Addressing the (limited) downsides to sartorial enlightenment

If you ask me, the downsides to becoming more sartorially educated are very limited, but they do exist. Beyond the struggle of knowing what looks really good while not being able to afford to actually purchase it, one ‘con’ stands out among the rest in my mind. And that would be having to watch the way that everyone else dresses. OK that came across as relatively pretentious, so I’ll amend that a bit. It’s having to watch the way that other people dress who really should know better. For those near and dear to you, the biggest downside is probably hearing you point these things out ALL the time.

The worst was probably the presidential election. I’m a big politics buff and followed the campaigns and debates very closely, which mean these politicians spent a lot of time on the TV in my house. I’m also on a crusade to get my girlfriend to be more interested in and attentive to politics, which meant I was forcing her to watch all of the developments with me. You have no idea how tired she got of hearing “Man, Romney’s suit is clearly two sizes too big.” “What was Obama thinking wearing that wide Double Windsor with such a narrow point collar?” “Can’t these millionaires afford a tailor? Or at least a stylist?”

Even beyond the politicians, who we pretty much expect to dress like frat dads, I see fashion flaws everywhere. Red carpet events, where stylists are paid by the boatload to make celebs look nice, constantly have me pointing to excessively baggy or long pants, like no one read any of the zillion articles advocating little-to-no-break (readers take note)! TV shows (like HIMYM, which we mentioned last week) bring out a lot of criticism when it comes to fit, but here it’s not only the bad that I have to complain about….has anyone noticed how damn well those poor penniless kids in Shameless manage to dress? Sure, you aren’t seeing any three-piece suits or designer labels, but everything fits like a glove. Even in Mad Men, one of the most watched shows among the menswear community, there are faux pas that I just can’t help but notice - have you seen how low Pete Campbell wears his tie clips?

Sometimes you just have to turn your sartorial judgement off. Like I said, any politician is basically born with a ‘Zero’ in the style factor (with limited exceptions). Sportscasters are by far the worst, but luckily you can just shut your eyes and listen to them yammer and not miss a whole lot. Anything made in the 90’s should probably just automatically be considered a fashion failure, and move on (see Friends, Dawson’s Creek, etc.) On the upside, it’s that much more refreshing to find pop-culture instances of great fit and style outside of the fashion world and obvious selections like Mad Men. I love the way Ben Wyatt dresses on Parks and Recs, all the while embracing his nerdiness. Quirky shows like Bored To Death let Ted Danson show off an awesome dapper side previously relatively unseen. But I have it on good record that the next time my girlfriend hears “Hey Babe! Come see how poofythis guys shirt is. Go see a tailor, buddy!” while I’m watching TV, she’s going to leave me for a quieter, albeit less dapper man.

Two final points to be made here: First, people do notice! I’m an ass and a creep like this, but I constantly judge people’s clothing, whether you’re a TV anchor or some college kid on the train. Second, as always, pay attention to what we post, as well as the plethora of other menswear blogs that are out there, and it’s really pretty easy to avoid these glaring mistakes. As a matter of fact, I was inspired to write this post in the first place as I prepare Wednesday’s post regarding tie clips and how to wear them, as all I kept thinking was, “I just want to tell them not to wear them like Pete Campbell!”

Cleaning Out Your Closet

Ever since I turned the corner in my life and started paying more attention to the way I dress, I’ve been working on revamping my wardrobe. As the purchases have come in, my closet has often suffered from overcrowding and clutter. For all the effort that I put into deciding what articles of clothing I need to acquire, I definitely struggle when it comes to deciding which articles I no longer need. I wouldn’t necessarily call myself a hoarder, per se, but I was definitely raised not to waste, and therefore end up with huge collections of out-of-style or ill-fitting clothing that I’m holding onto ‘just in case,’ when in reality I will never wear them again.

Just this year, however, I stumbled upon a pretty sensible system for trimming the sartorial ‘fat’ from your closet, and I found it in the most unexpected of places. It was one of those mornings where we fell asleep with the TV on, and I woke up to a public access program on dealing with ADD. Whether or not you actually suffer from ADD is irrelevant (although let’s face it, we probably all do), because their system will work for everyone.

The recommendations are as follows. First, find a closet or storage space that you don’t normally use, and is preferably not where you get dressed. Move all of your clothing out of your normal closet and into this new area. Over the next few weeks (or months), as you wear an item of clothing, move it from the temporary storage space back into your regular closet. Give yourself a deadline for this project, and when you reach that point, take everything that is still in your temporary storage and haul it down to your thrift store or clothing collection venue of choice and dump that shit. I’ve taken to making this a seasonal project, so that when that deadline hits I can know that everything I’m carting off has sat unused for an entire season of wear. Obviously, I leave out those seasonal items that just don’t make sense to wear at that time (coats in the summer, shorts in the winter, you get the drift) and anything with sentimental value, but everything else is subject to this test of time.

Give it a try. I know it’s nothing revolutionary, but the important thing here is to focus on slimming down. As you make your sartorial developments, you should be putting more thought into what you are putting on each day. You will save yourself a lot of time and unnecessary mental deliberation by cutting all the clutter out of those decisions. Chances are, you’ll find yourself making a lot more decisive and thoughtful outfit selections when you are only picking from items you know you like and wear on a regular basis. And let’s be honest, every roadblock you put in front of that hasty decision to throw on your high-school era, boot-cut, ‘distressed’ Abercrombie jeans or your baggy band tees from college is probably a step in the right direction.

Fashion Faux Pas - Untucked Shirts

Returning once again to the ‘Fashion Faux Pas’ series, today we are addressing untucked button-up shirts. Fellas, once you’ve graduated from college, this is almost always a no-no. And it’s one that I notice all the time, all over the place. No joke, the biggest one that bothers me is Ted, from How I Met Your Mother. There’s a lot more wrong with this outfit (mostly those ridiculous-looking jeans), but he is constantly walking around in a baggy shirt, untucked, under a blazer, and it makes him look like he’s playing dress-up in his dads clothing.

So, here are the rules when it comes to button-up shirts: Button-up shirts come in two basic cuts when it comes to the bottom of the shirt. Sport shirts are cut straight across the bottom, while dress-shirts are rounded to give the shirt ‘tails.’ Both can be worn tucked, both can be worn with a tie, but obviously dress shirts tend to be the more formal of the two. I’d say it’s a pretty safe bet that you should always tuck in a dress shirt. The extreme exception is some oxfords, chambrays, or more casual shirts, as well as some short-sleeved dress shirts, but even with these you want to be careful. The deciding factor here is going to be the length of the shirt. The best rule of thumb is to check how far the front hem of your shirt falls below your waistline. If it is less than halfway down your zipper, you can consider leaving it untucked. Anything that falls more than halfway down your fly will just look sloppy untucked. Sport shirts tend to give you a little more leeway, because a well fitted sport shirt, with a straight hem, will usually fall less than halfway down your fly. Dress shirts on the other hand are purposefully cut longer in order to keep them from coming untucked while you are wearing them.

Finally, if you are wearing a blazer, ALWAYS tuck your shirt in. Otherwise you get, at best, this 90’s professor look that is just…well….frumpy. Think Ross from mid-run Friends. At the very least, it’s extremely difficult to put together a physically flattering, slim fitted outfit without tucking yourself in.

Note: This obviously only applies to button-up shirts. Polos are hit-or-miss, but please don’t ever tuck in your T-shirt. We shouldn’t even have to say that.

Photo courtesy of fanpop.com

Modern Tailor - MTM Shirt Review

I recently decided to finally take the dive into custom clothing and began by ordering my first Made-To-Measure (MTM) shirt from Modern Tailor. There are a slew of custom/MTM shirting brands available online, but my tight wallet led me to choose Modern Tailor for their ‘first-timer’ deal and the number of positive revies I had heard for their lower-end shirts. In the end I was able to walk away with a great white dress shirt for about $40, all shipping and extras included. You might be able to do even better if you use this referral link for $20 off your first purchase: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

Quality:

I’m sure I’ve mentioned before that I am no professional tailor, so my comments here are from a completely novice standpoint. That said, the construction and quality of my shirt is not disappointing in the slightest. The fabric itself, a single ply cotton, is as light as would be expected from a lower-range option, but honestly, it’s going to be perfect for this (hopefully) coming warm spring days. It’s thin without being sheer, and doesn’t have any of the stiff, wrinkly, uncomfortable (almost like plastic) feeling that some cheap dress shirts seem to have. Everything feels solidly constructed. I can’t speak too much for stitching, etc., but all the seams are neat and straight and I have yet to find any blemishes, in the fabric or the needlework. The collar, which I chose to have a ‘common’ softness, is structured enough to stand up on it’s own, without a tie, but soft enough to be comfortable and forgiving, and Modern Tailor offers bother stiffer and softer collar options, if that’s what floats your boat. I also opted up for the thick Mother of Pearl buttons, which came through sturdy and clean. Overall, the quality definitely met my expectations.

I will say that I wish Modern Tailor had included metal collar stays instead of the flimsy plastic ones that the shirt came with. So far I’ve only gotten metal stays from Charles Tyrwhitt and Express, and I have a bad tendencey to lose and/or ruin plastic stays pretty quickly. Minor complaint.

Fit:

Quality of fabric and needlework is great and all, but you really buy a custom shirt in order to insure a perfect fit, so this was the aspect I focused most heavily on. While I can’t quite say that the shirt fit like a glove, it was pretty damn close. Modern Tailor offers a few different options for taking measurements. If you have a shirt that fits you perfectly, you can either measure that shirt, or send it to their tailors (although I’m not sure how shipping works in these cases). You can also choose to measure yourself, and Modern Tailor will then adapt those measurements into actual shirting measurements when constructing your shirt. I opted for this last option, as the whole reason I wanted a custom shirt was because none of my shirts fit perfectly. I was a little intimidated by taking on what I saw as a task for a professional, but the instructions provided made it pretty easy to get measurements I was confident with (my girlfriend helped out, it’s definitely useful, if not necessary, to have a second pair of hands). I did tweak a few measurements before submitting. I have broad shoulders and a very slim waist, and my biggest problem with shirting is that it tends to be far too wide around the beltline, leading to that dreaded ‘billowing’ effect when tucked in. I double-checked some other reviews online and made sure that Modern Tailor doesn’t cut especially close in the waist, and then knocked my own measurement down an inch. I also leaned on the slimmer side around the armholes, but not by much. For everything else, I faithfully followed directions and stuck with those results.

I gotta say, the fit is pretty impressive. The waist fits perfectly, which was my biggest concern. The cuffs seem a little loose at first, but now, only halfway through the day, I’ve gotten used to them and actually think they just fit better than what I’ve become accustomed to. The armholes are high and tight without being constricting (aiding to what I find to me a slimmer, more modern look). The darting in the back of the shirt let’s it follow the contours of my back, rather than hanging loosely (TSB Men has a great article on the glories of darts, check it out). The length of the shirt is just right as well (although I did pull this measurement from a shirt of mine, so I would expect this to be pretty accurate), and stays tucked in without bunching up under my pantaloons. Check out the picture below, and forgive any wrinkling (this was after a long day at the office):

Now, I said close to perfect earlier, implying that some things were a bit off. I’ll add a disclaimer here: from what I’ve read (and reasoned with mine own mind grapes), your first MTM will inevitably need a little bit of tweaking, as you get used to your own preferences and how that translates to tailor (and specifically your tailor of choice) measurements. With that in mind, for my next shirt I will probably cut an inch off of the chest, and will slim down the arms as well. Now, I do think it’s important to note that neither of these areas don’t fit on my shirt. My personal preferences just call for a bit slimmer of a cut than what Modern Tailor appears to make standard. I’m still happily wearing the shirt as is at this very moment.

Turnaround:

I was pretty impressed with the turnaround time here. My order was ready to ship a mere 6 days after I ordered it. At this point, they even sent me a picture of the finished product, and while my choices were pretty standard, this could be great if you are picking a bolder pattern or customization options.

Modern Tailor does their actually tailoring in China, so the product shipped out of Shanghai, and I figured I was in for a pretty lengthy shipping time, but Modern Tailor provided me with a tracking number that allowed me to track the package internationally and it only took 3-4 more days before I had the shirt in my hand. Voila. Well under their quoted turnaroud time.

Customizations:

Here is a list of all the options I selected when making my shirt (all personal preference).

1. Collar: Medium Cutaway Collar, Common Softness, Removable Collar Stays


2. Cut Corner Cuffs, One Button


3. Thick Mother of Pearl Buttons (+$5.00, well worth it)


4. No Pocket or Monogram


5. Standard Placket


6. Slim Fit, with Darts


7. I also sent in a picture of myself for the tailors to use to aproximate body type (not sure how much of a difference it made, but why not, right?)

Overall, I’m pretty happy with my first foray into custom clothing, and have the feeling it’s going to be my next addiction. Options can get pricey at any online retailer, but take advantage of any ‘1st time user’ discounts you can find, and, once again, use this referral link to get $20 off your first order from Modern Tailor: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

What Might Have Been...(redux)

Last month I wrote a post about another blog title that I had tried to use (‘Tie One On’) but was already taken. Today, as I woke up with a hacking cough and horrible heartburn (sexy, no?) I harkened back to another (brilliant, I thought) blog title that was, alas, not to be. After ‘Tie One On’ came up as spoken for, I was inspired to name my blog ‘I Look Like’ and even got so far as drafting an explanation for the name before I bothered to check the availabilty (it was a frustrating night). Here was what I came up with:

I always try to have a goal, as random or unrealistic as it may be, that I want my clothes to accomplish on any given day. I often ask my girlfriend on my way out the door “Do I look like I deserve a raise today?” or “Do I look like I should win with that Powerball ticket I bought?”

I try to stay positive, at the worst “Do I look like I deserve to be given the day off?” when I feel like hell or “Do I look like I’m important enough to be left alone all day?” if I’m feeling particularly grumpy, or it’s a Monday. BUT I didn’t like “Do I Look Like?” by itself, it sounded too…unconfident (I KNOW that’s not a word, but I like it).

Therefore I will put my own ‘zest’ of life-coaching and call this “I Look Like” as a reminder that you should proudly look in that mirror and the morning and declare in your douchiest voice “I Look Like Someone Sexy”!

It’s also a reminder that every once in a while yes, you look like - shit.

So today I woke up, showered, got dressed, and asked my lovely girlfriend, “Do I look like I won’t cough up a lung today?” It’s just one of those days.

Fabric of the Season - Chambray

At some point I’d love to have an ‘expert’ help us write a post about all the different fabric choices that are out there, from twill to poplin to oxford cloth, but for now I’m going to focus on one fabric that I’ve been addicted to lately and is definitely my go-to this spring; chambray.

Chambray is a relatively lightweight fabric woven with a white weft and colored warp (weft refers to the horizontal threads that are woven through the vertical warp), which results in a texture very similar to denim.

Traditionally, chambray is a blue color, once again much like denim, but these days you can find it in a variety of colors (I have blue, dark grey, and red). Personally, I love this fabric in the spring because I think it’s a great way to incorporate lighter spring colors like a dusty red or faded blue without sacrificing any manly ruggedness or falling into Easter bunny territory. Like linen and other more textured fabrics, it even looks good slightly rumpled.

I also love chambray because of how well it works in both formal and casual wear. Originally, denim and, likewise, chambray, were reserved for casual clothing and work-wear, but recently with the so-called ‘rules’ of men’s fashion being challenged and the boundaries stretched, it is more and more acceptable to wear chambray formally. If you want to dress up a chambray shirt, look for something with a narrower collar and no chest pockets. In addition to now being used for dress shirts and even blazers, there are a lot of chambray ties and pocket squares that look great paired with other cross-genre fabrics and patterns like gingham shirts or tweed jackets.

On top of all that, the stuff is damn comfortable! Think the ruggedness of denim with a more lightweight, soft cotton feel. Perfect for those spring days that aren’t too cold or too hot. My favorite chambray shirts both come from Frank and Oak and go for a mere $45 (sign up for Frank and Oak with my referral link for $5 off), but I’ve seen some strong offerings from J. Crew, like the red shirt shown below, among others, and I’d expect to see chambray options popping up at most menswear brands this spring.

Tie Society Giveaway!

Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets is proud to announce our very first promotional giveaway! We’ve partnered up with Tie Society in conjunction with our recent review and will be awarding one lucky reader a free month subscription to Tie Society’s wonderful services. To win, use the widget below to gain entries by following us on Twitter, tweeting about the contest, and/or ‘Liking’ our Facebook page (do all three for the best chance to win). A winner will be chosen when the contest closes at midnight (CST) on Thursday, March 28th, takes home the gold. Good luck!

Tip: When entering by tweeting about the giveaway, click the little ‘tweet’ picture. Rafflecopter, our host for the giveaway, does not make that very clear.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Tie Society Reviewed

Welp, we are back with a brand new review! Today’s subject is Tie Society, and is coordinated with Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets’ first ever promotional giveaway! 

Brand Background: Have you heard of Netflix? I hope so, or you’ve been living under a rock. Well, Tie Society offers a very similar service adapted to provide neckties for the well-dressed gentleman instead of DVD’s. Founded by Zac Gittens and Otis Collins, the idea started as a simple tie-swap among friends and has developed into the next big thing in menswear subscription services. With three pricing tiers, you can opt to ‘borrow’ one, three, five, or ten items at a time, with subscriptions starting at a very affordable $10.95/month. After you build your ‘Closet’ (very similar to a Netflix ‘queue’) from their extensive collection featuring a variety of designers, widths, patterns, and materials, Tie Society will ship your first selection off to you. Whenever you have had enough of your current selection, you just ship it on back in their pre-paid packaging and they send you the next item on your list. I believe they started out just offering ties, but they’ve been diligently developing their service and now offer a variety of other accessories such as pocket squares, tie bars and cuff links. Their newest service allows you to sell your quality ties back to them to be entered into their ever-expanding rotation (and I’ve heard lots of rumors that they have big plans for the future).

What I’ve Bought: Obviously, I haven’t actually bought anything (although you do have the option of purchasing the ties for something like 40%-60$ off MSRP), but I have borrowed a wide variety of ties. As far as I know, there isn’t a list of your borrowing history, so I’m writing this completely off of memory, but some of my favorites have included the Bloom Minidot by Bear vs. Bull, which I actually just (very reluctantly) sent back this weekend. I also really liked the Raven Stripe by Laurant Bennet, and the Mosaic plaid ties are all awesome, although they run a bit long for my body type. My only disappointment really was one tie that was a silk/polyester blend. I hate polyester in ties, but honestly I just missed the inclusion of polyester in the description when I was ordering, so that one’s on me. Here are some of my past choices:

 

Quality: Every tie I’ve gotten has been of solid quality. While you can tell that some of them have been used and washed, nothing that I’ve recieved has looked ‘old’ or worn out to the point where I wouldn’t be proud wearing it. Like I mentioned before, I wasn’t real impressed with the one polyester blend tie I borrowed, but they had noted that in the description so I could really only blame myself. Additionally, these ties are made by very reputable designers and manufacturers. Most of these would run in the $75 range if bought new and are all very well made. When I buy ties, I usually spring for the $15 ties from TheTieBar.com, which I love, but you can really tell the difference in quality when you hold one of those ties up next to a Charles Tyrwhitt or Bruno Piatelli that dimples just right and hangs like a dream. So yep, I’m a fan of the quality.

Customer Service: I think this is where Tie Society really shows it’s worth. Their customer service is incredible. I’ve never not once gotten the wrong tie, and all my orders are processed quickly. Over the Christmas holiday, I had picked out a green knit tie to wear Christmas day and there was a shipping delay returning my previous tie. I was worried I wouldn’t get the green tie before we left for vacation, so I got ahold of the customer service team and they not only hustled the tie into the mail for me, they sent it to my vacation address just to make sure I’d have it for Christmas day. Even better is their ‘advice’ feature. They have dedicated an e-mail account to giving tie-related advice, and in this aspect they truly excel. The first time I wrote, I had just gotten a dark blue plaid shirt from Ben Sherman and was new to the tie game and unsure how to match with it, so I shot them an e-mail. I was expecting a quick “try grey, maybe something in wool” type of response, but Jake sent a fully personalized, page long e-mail. Not only did he give color and material pointers, he picked out a few example from their website and sent me links, telling me why he liked each one and how he would wear it. Even more surprising and appreciated was the fact that he also recommended a few ties that Tie Society didn’t even offer as kind of ‘templates’ for what to look for if I was out shopping for myself. Since then I’ve written to Jake countless times, he’s a great guy and gives solid (and friendly) advice every single time. Definitely take advantage of this feature, I think it’s part of what sets Tie Society apart.

What’s To Love: Personally, I think if you read ‘Netflix for Ties’ and don’t see what’s to love, you’ve got some issues. Really though, this is an incredible service for the young gent trying to expand and develop his personal style. It’s a great opportunity to be a little bolder with your tie selection than you might be comfortable with when making permanent purchases. Order something exciting! If it’s too much, your worst case scenario is to send it back and move on to the next one. Combine this with their ‘advice’ service and you have an incredibly stress-free method to stepping outside your personal fashion boundaries and exploring textures, colors and patterns that will help you stand out amongst your peers as a truly dapper dude. I also am a big fan of the fact that they call your selection your ‘Closet’ because ‘queue’ is an obnoxious word that always takes me ten tries before I get the spelling right.

What’s Not To Love: Honestly, not a lot to put here. It can be a pain to build an extensive closet only to have ties go out of availability before they reach the top of your queue, but if you’re patient it’s not too much of an issue. I’ve also just gotten in the habit of only having 5 or 6 things in my closet instead of picking out every single thing that I like. Every time I return a tie, I just add one more thing to the list, and that’s kept me pretty happy so far. My only other beef is really more of a beef with USPS, as sometimes it seems like the shipping takes forever. Really though, I notice this way more when I’m sending stuff back, and don’t think there’s anything Tie Society could do to make it any better, as they seem to be pretty on top of processing orders and getting the shipments out. I’m sure they could use a faster shipping service, but the price would probably come back to the customer and as of now they offer free shipping both ways, so I really can’t complain about their methods.

So that wraps it up! If you are interested in Tie Society, be sure to check out our giveaway to win a free one-month subscription!

Origins - The Button-Down Collar

One of the things about menswear that I have come to love is learning the stories behind the origins of classic staples. I’ve mentioned why suit jackets and blazers are designed to leave the bottom button unbottoned, and briefly touched on the history of the button-down shirt, but it’s a topic that fascinates me enough that I’m going to start writing dedicated posts to the history of men’s style items and terms. First on the list, we will return to the button-down so I can give the whole story:

The button-down collar has been around for a long time, but was originally used only in sportingwear, and wasn’t adapted for the menswear fashion world until the late 1800’s. Legend has it that John Brooks (of the Brooks Brothers family) took a trip to the UK in 1986 and saw the collars being used by polo players. Tradition required the players to wear collared shirts, but they had found the collars to have a tendence to flap around and be quite a visual distraction while they were playing. Buttoning down the collars was simply a practical solution to a logistical problem. John Brooks took a liking to the style of the shirt and brought it back to the States when he returned, introducing it to the Brooks Brothers lineup and creating an American prep classic. Pictured here is my OCBD from Frank and Oak (one of my favorite shirts):



Just a short little story, but I love knowing these things, and it tends to boggle people’s minds when I can pull random tidbits like this out over drinks, which is always fun too!

It's Not ALL About What You Wear...

I’m super excited (and now sounding a bit like a valley girl or something) to have gotten a signed copy of Michael Hainey’s memoir, After Visiting Friends through a giveaway from GQ. For those of you who don’t know, Michael Hainey is the Deputy Director of GQ (wow, would I love to have that job), but rather than a chronicling of his journey through the fashion industry, his memoir focuses on the mysteries surrounding his family life and, in particular, the death of his father. I have yet to read the whole thing but I did peruse some samples before I got my copy and am really looking forward to sitting down with it. So much, in fact, that I was inspired to write a post lauding the joys and values of reading in general.

So I tell you all, pick up a book! When it comes down to it, the effort to dress well, at least for me, is all a part of the pursuit of all those ineffable qualities that makes a man a gentleman. I don’t dress up for the ladies (or the fellas), I don’t do it to get attention, I don’t do it to try to fit an image. I do it for the same reason I have started to try to eat healthy, that I hold the door open and say please and thank you, that I talk to my mother at least once a week. I do it because I think it’s part of an overall package that makes me a better man. With all this effort that your putting into your outward appearance, sometimes it’s easy to forget to keep those mind-grapes of yours well fed and exercised. I think being well-read is an inherently vital factor of being a true gentleman. I know this is a fashion-focused blog, but I have to take this opportunity to promote the value of a rounded and balanced reading diet.

The key is to cover a variety of genres. First, keep up on a variety of general non-fiction. The daily news is an obvious go-to here, but go beyond that and read some books on science, or design, or history. These books will you keep feeling and sounding as smart as you look, and will give you interesting (key point here, interesting) things to talk about with all those people who are going to strike up a conversation with the well-dressed gentleman in the room. To keep things from getting too dry, try to pick something with a fresh and entertaining perspective. John Stewart’s Earth and America, for example put a wholly entertaining spin on world and national history, or Freakonomics, by Steven D. Levitt puts often overlooked aspects of the moden world into a whole new light.

 

A little more specifically, try out some solid memoirs or Biographies. Even if I’m not sure exactly how, I do know that I want to be considered a great man someday. Now, I won’t be heartbroken by a happy average life, but it’s a constant goal in the background of what I do, to achieve greatness, and nothing is more inspiring than the lives of other great men and women. Earlier this year I read Walter Isaacson’s biography of Steve Jobs and have been talking big ideas and design ever since. Now I’m working my way through Jungleland, and am just about ready to drop my life and become an explorer in the jungles of the Amazon.

 

Next, give yourself a healthy dose of culture. Don’t be that ‘too-cool-for-school’ guy who rejects anything that might have shown up on a summer reading list as old and stuffy. Some of my favorite books are classics. They are considered that for a reason, and have stood the test of time. You might not apply anything from these books to your daily life, but the language and prose and spirit in those books will last and hopefully eventually reflect itself in you. My reccomendations here include Grapes of Wrath and The Great Gatsby, which cover both the grit and the glamour of America in the early 1900’s.

 

Lastly, never underestimade a good, pulse-pounding modern fiction. After you give your brains all that aforementioned exercise, let them run rampant a bit. These are the books that will keep your imagination ready for that day you come up with the next big idea, or you need to entertain a small child, or just want an adventure for yourself. I cannot reccomend Prepare To Die, by Paul Tobin highly enough. It’s Superman meets Fight club, with a gritty combination of comic-book action and sexy intrigue.

I’ll also give a moment’s praise to the epic series. These include titles like George R.R. Martin’s Game of Thrones, my most recent obsession, or Ken Follett’s Pillars of the Earth, and, while not for everyone, are awesome for the fact that there’s always the next book to look forward to (until you reach the end, at which point it is more than appropriate to wallow in a pit of despair for a few days).

 

Voila, my recipe for a hearty life-long literary meal. Doctors orders. Read up.

WIWT - 3/20/2013

In fashion, there tends to be a misconception that, in order for an outfit to be interesting, it has to be colorful. Not only does this lead to some crazy color combinations (contrast can be good folks, but everything in moderation), it also tends to lead to a general neglect of the use of texture to give depth to an outfit. True, a combination of ‘all monos’ - monochrome, monotone, monotexture, tend to fall pretty flat and can fail to make any sort of statement whatsoever. However, you can create an interesting, maybe even exciting outfit just by playing with textures.

Take this look I wore today. You will find (almost) nothing but grey in this outfit. Charcoal grey pants, light grey sweater, mid-grey shirt, grey tie. All one color, and arguably the least ‘exciting’ color out there. The difference lies in the attention I paid to the textures of each individual item. You won’t see a similar textured piece of clothing next to another anywhere in this outfit. The cotton, dark grey trousers cozy up with the thicker, light grey cotton knit v-neck, which lays nicely over the grey chambray shirt which stands out with a hint of sheen, but is balanced again by a thick, robust wool tie.

I topped it off with just the subtlest pops of color…it might be hard to see in the picture, but the tie has ‘cornflower’ blue pin stripes, and I threw on a pair of grey socks with similarly light blue stripes as a bit of a visual surprise if you get a glimpse between my cuff and shoe.

Like I said, what keeps this outfit from blending into a big grey mush is the texture variation (one more time - cotton twill to knit cotton to chambray to thick wool). Even the black belt, when you can see it under the sweater, helps to break up the outfit into very distinct pieces.

I have a special place in my heart for this outfit right next to my special place for all things grey. Something about the color just appeals to me, fashion-wise (might have something to do with my longstanding love affair with Tweed). I’m often frustrated with the problem of too many grey items of clothing and therefore am giddy as a school girl when I can find a way, like this, to throw on all the grey layers I can think of and make it really work. Far from blending into the background with this outfit, I actually get more compliments with this combination than many of my brighter, preppier looks. On top of that, I feel much more weather-appropriate wearing this on a cold windy Chicago day that I do putting on that pastel tie I have set aside for the upcoming spring warmth.

The whole point is, think outside the box! If you want a more interesting outfit, don’t automatically grab the brightest color in your closet! Experiment, try different things out, and see what works. For all the ‘rules’ of menswear that I love so much, there are a million ways to break and bend them and look great. By the way, I love these socks. So much that I took extra pictures of them. And posted them to Instagram earlier today. $4.00 at Nordstrom Rack, thank you very much!

Today’s Outfit (I think I forgot this section in the last WIWT post):

Shirt: Frank and Oak
Sweater: American Eagle
Tie: The Tie Bar
Pants: Frank and Oak
Socks: English Laundry
Shoes: Allen Edmonds

Tying the Knot(s)

As promised, I’m going to keep delving into the wonderful world of the necktie. I’ve written about tie knots before, but this post goes into more detail on all the knots that are available and when to use them. Tie-A-Tie.net covers all the instructional bases much better than I’d be able to, so I will refrain from trying to repeat the innumerable tutorials that are already out there, and this post will be less of a ‘how-to and more of a ‘how to do it right.’

First it’s important to understand that there are certain times to use or not to use each of these knots, no single one can serve as a go-to in every situation. The biggest factor in determining which knots you can use is going to be the style of the collar of your shirt. In this area, proportion is your biggest measuring tool. Spread collars leave a lot of room between the collar points in which you can easily fit a double-windsor, while a traditional point collar will swallow a wide knot and is more appropriately paired with a four-in-hand knot. There are a few other factors as well, but for the most part they come down to personal taste.

So what are your options?

The first (and most versatile) knot you should know is the Four-In-Hand. I know I said there is no ‘go-to’ knot, but this one comes close. This knot is on the smaller side and markedly asymmetric. With the growing trend in menswear to try to look dapper without being over-polished, stylish without looking too damn perfectly put together, this knot is a great way to tavoid that ‘perfect-triangle,’ Dorito-lookin tie knot that can make you look like you just rolled off a factory line of Donald Trumps, cheesy politicians and used car salesmen. The small nature of this knot makes it perfect for point-collar shirts and button-down collars. It also is one of the few knots that looks naturally proportional with a skinnier tie. Like I said, I’m a big fan of this one and use it almost every day. The biggest trouble I run into with this knot is that it doesn’t take up much of the tie length, and I am often left with a too-long-tie. The quick solution to this is to throw in one more loop and turn the knot into a Double Four-In Hand, a knot used extensively by some of the more fashion-forward Italian gentlemen, and one I have become a huge fan of lately. It adds some nice heft to lighter ties (such as cotton, linen, or thin twill), and comes out with a really nice looking knot that just hints at luxury. See below:

The next knot I would say you should know is the Double Windsor, more because it is a classic staple that a lot of other knots are based off of than because of any recommendation of mine to actually wear the thing. This is where you get that big triangle Dorito look I always complain about. However, the Double Windsor does have it’s place, mainly among power suits and super-spread collars. It’s a very in-your-face knot, often associated with Wall Street boys and Hollywood Agents (I think Ari of Entourage fame always wore a nice, big Double Windsor). Don’t even try this knot with a point collar, as either the shirt will swallow the knot, or the knot will push at your collar in a most unseemly way (see, somehow even writing about the Double Windsor makes me a little pompous, I apologize). I also apologize that this isn’t the greatest looking knot in the picture, but I rarely use this knot, so I’m not a pro. Deal with it:

My suggestion, if you want something with a bit more heft and formality than the Four-In Hand, would be to go for a Half-Windsor or a Shelby/Pratt knot. Both of these knots essentially take out a loop of the Double Windsor, simultaneously making it a bit smaller and more approachable while adding a touch of asymmetry to keep it interesting. These two (in my opinion) are pretty interchangable, but I’ve found the Half Windsor to work better with wider ties while the Shelby/Pratt gives you a nice wide knot on a skinny tie without looking silly. The Shelby/Pratt is my go-to when wearing a spread collar, as most of my ties are on the skinnier end. It’s also a slightly more formal knot, so I tend to wear it when I am dressing up for a special occaision. It can be a bit tricky at first, because it’s one of the few knots that requires you to start with your tie essentially ‘inside-out,’ but you get the hang of it after a few tries. Here is the Shelby:

And the Half Windsor:

After these four options, there are literally countless variations, many of which I can’t even tell the difference between, but these are the four basics that most other knots are derived from. Sit in front of a mirror and practice these until they are ingrained in your memory and you will be prepared for pretty much any occasion that calls for neckwear. And please, by all means, avoid those goddamn novelty knots.

WIWT - 3/15/13

When given the freedom to dress without a dress code, my style of choice is a dressed up casual. Monday through Thursday my work requires strict business casual (no jeans), but even on casual Friday I like to keep myself looking sharp. Today I really wanted to rock these new Tod’s loafers I picked up on eBay about a week ago for a cool $50.

I’ve been looking for this exact shoe for weeks and finally found it - I wanted a slender brown penny loafer with a long vamp (the ‘tongue’ part of the shoe) as a short vamp looks slipper-ish and outdated. There are countless brown loafers on eBay, but most of them are pretty out of style with low vamps and either too round or too square of toes, or they are a different variation on the loafer (tassels or horsebits), which I am just generally less confident about wearing. Anyway, I was overjoyed when I saw these, which were exactly what I was looking for.

When they arrived, I was a little disappointed at first, not due to quality or condition, but because they fit just a little loose. I was hoping to be able to wear these sockless as it warms up, and these are just a tad too big to comfortably do so. My immediate reaction was to decide to re-sell them on eBay and hopefully turn a profit, but just today I slipped them on with a pair of thicker socks and they fit and looked great, so I’m holding onto them as a winter shoe and will look for something else to solve my warm-weather needs.

Along with the aforementioned socks ($15, thick cotton socks from J. Crew), I picked a pair of great Hurley jeans I snagged from Nordstrom Rack for a paltry $20. These jeans are dark enough to look dressy while still meeting the ‘casual’ requirement of a casual Friday outfit. The shirt and tie combo not only dresses things back up a bit, but also let me throw in a little kick of green since we had a small St. Patrick’s day party at work today and I wanted to look the part (more on dressing for St. Patrick’s day here).

In the final details, the tie bar hints at formality while the belt remains dressed-down, once again comfortably straddling the lines of formality.

To wrap it up, this whole outfit is about balancing casual and dressy in a way that works well together. I started dressy with loafers over sneakers, then brought it to the casual side with jeans instead of slacks. Shirt and tie ups the formality, while the wider, well-worn belt anchors the look with another touch of casual. Like I said, if I was given the choice, this is about what my daily wear would look like.

How do you define your style? In a world without dress code expectations, would you be dressing differently on a day-to-day basis? 

Irish-ing Myself

After some weather-related shipping delays, my Frank and Oak crate arrived today. Included in my items was this green chambray button-down shirt that I ordered as a nice St. Patrick’s day treat for myself. St. Patty’s is one of those holidays that is too easy to go way overboard with. All green outfits abound, including ridiculous stockings and shamrock shorts and garishly green ties and bright top hats and t-shirts with stupid slogans and the list goes on and on. As ‘grandfather-ish’ as I may sound saying this, a lot of folks could stand to look a little more grown up on March 17th. However, as I’ve written before, I do like to do something on the holidays and won’t turn down an opportunity to be a little festive. All these things in mind, my general rule is to never buy anything for St. Patty’s day that I won’t continue to wear the rest of the year. The idea is to get something fun but not a costume. This shirt, for example, more than fills the ‘wear something green’ rule, but also just generally makes a nice springtime piece that will bring some color to my wardrobe as the weather warms up. The green isn’t too in-your-face and the gingham pattern is a classic that has been especially popular in the past year or two (one of my favorites). I’ll probably wear this with jeans this weekend, but I can easily pair it with some light grey pants and a dark tie to wear to work.

What do you think? How do you pick your St. Patrick’s day style?

WIWT - 3/13/2013

Ladies and gents, proud to present the first ‘WIWT’ post from Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets. For those of you new to the lingo, WIWT = What I Wore Today, and is, well, if you don’t get it I’m not sure I can help you. Anyway, I figured I may as well put the new camera to use, so these should become a regular feature (and the photo quality will get better as I figure out all the tricks on this camera and set up some better shooting locations).

I also really wanted to show off this tie, which very well may be my favorite that I’ve gotten from Tie Society (Tie Society review forthcoming). I’ve been really digging the dots lately and love the shiny-light blue/raised white dot combo, plus the tie is just darn well made, you can tell from the way it knots and hangs….just look at that dimple. Golden. Also notice the tie length (previously addressed in this ‘Fashion Faux Pas’ article)- hits right at the belt - muy bueno.

I will say that I need to have the shirtsleeves taken in a bit as they are a bit long and loose, but it hasn’t bugged me enough to actually take them to a tailor yet. So get off my back already.



Todays ensemble:

Pants: Frank and Oak
Shirt: J. Crew
Tie: Bear vs. Bull (courtesy of Tie Society)
Socks: H&M
Shoes: Allen Edmonds

What Might Have Been...

In case you hadn’t noticed, I’m keeping posts short and sweet until I get my camera (scheduled to arrive Monday!) at which point I will return to full-length ‘feature’ posts, but now with pictures! They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and sometimes I don’t even write that many, so it’s bound to be an improvement.

However, I won’t leave you with nothing at all, since I know so many of you depend on my daily posts like it’s a matter of life or death (if you were wondering, that was sarcasm).

This is the first of a few posts I will share regarding my process in naming ‘Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets.’ The name is really growing on me, but it wasn’t my first choice, for a variety of reasons.

In fact, my first choice was ‘Tie One On’ and I REALLY still wish I could use that name, but, alas, it was already taken (all the good ideas are, right? Well, for my sake, I hope not…). First off, it’s a pun, that involves drinking, and ties, which are two of my favorite things in life. More seriously, I think taking the leap to wearing a tie on a day to day basis is when I really turned the page in my sartorial story (there I go, being pretentious again, coincidentally another part of my naming process). It’s not that all of the sudden I was the most stylish man around, but that’s when I really started caring about how I looked and started to enjoy looking good. I had taken some brief forays into the stylish world of menswear before then with a few good pieces like a pair Chukka boots or some nice-lookin’ (but cheap) brogues, but when I started wearing ties (and loving it), my whole sense of style took a drastic turn.

On top of that, once you start wearing a tie you open up so many sartorial options, it’s enough to make a style-blogger giddier than a schoolgirl at Christmas. From the numerous knots to different fabrics to tie bars to texture matching, the opportunities are endless.

With that in mind, I will be following this up with many, MANY posts illustrating all the above, reviewing tie manufacturers/retailers (hello TheTieBar.com) and more (once again, after I get my camera). Get ready to get yo’ knot on! Also, coincidentally, it’s #NeckTieFriday over at Frank and Oak, let’s see those submissions! If you’re posting something you’re proud of, tag me or send it my way, I love to see what everyone comes up with. Here is my submission this week:

Musical Interlude - David Bowie x Paul Smith

David Bowie has always been one of my favorite musicians. I remember belting out ‘Starman’ with my best friend in middle school while everyone else was rocking hard to P.O.D. and Limp Bizkit. Thus, you can imagine my excitement when I heard his new, ‘come-back’ album Next Day and it kicked oh so much ass. Harkening back to the style of his 70’s ‘Berlin’ recordings (i.e. Low, Lodger, and Heroes), the album showcases what Bowie does best, which is mashing together the classic with the experimental and coming out with something beautiful as a result.

Icing on the cake? Bowie just announced an upcoming collaboration with men’s fashion great Paul Smith. Now, I’m not sure if Bowie has ever released a fashion line before, but in the same way that he has always been a force in cutting edge music, his style has been alternately breaking the mold and redefining timeless classics. As of now, they have only announced a pretty predictable album-cover T-shirt, but anything from the man that brought you this: 

and this:

 

and this:

 

is bound to be exciting, if nothing else.

What are your thoughts? Will David Bowie x Paul Smith be classic and dapper or experimental and daring?

Also, be sure to check out the visually stunning video for his new single ‘The Stars (Are Out Tonight)’ which is a fashion smorgasbord all of it’s own!

Setting It Straight - Button-UP vs. Button-DOWN

This is one of my all-time biggest fashion related pet peeves because you have NO idea how many professionals I see screwing this one up. Button-down shirts and button-up shirts are two entirely different terms, and are NOT to be interchanged.

Button-up refers broadly to buttoned shirts. This encompasses dress shirts, sport shirts, hidden plackets, french cuffs, all collar styles, you name it. As long as it buttons shut and is a shirt, it is a button-up shirt.

A button-down shirt is an altogether more specific term and refers to the collar of the shirt, not the closure. Seen most commonly on oxford-cloth shirts, button-down collars are attached to the body of the shirt with - you guessed it - buttons at the points of the collar. GQ actually just published an article about the history of this style (something to do with Polo players and their collars flapping about all nimbly-pimbly), but all I really care about is that you don’t mix the two up.

I bring this up so heatedly because I was just browsing the American Eagle selection (actually, due to another GQ post featuring some of their bright, spring-appropriate OCBD’s) and noticed that they call ALL of their dress shirts ‘button-down shirts.’ Bull. Shit. You people are paid (probably very well) to know what the hell you are talking about. Do your homework, and get it right (and maybe fire that copy-writer and hire this guy? eh? haha).

On a more cheerful note, a little hint of exciting things to come: I just FINALLY ordered a camera capable of producing professional-quality pictures! That means a brighter, better-illustrated Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets coming soon to an internet near you! Who knows, maybe I’ll even go back and update old posts as well. Be excited!

Fashion Faux Pas - Sometimes, Always, NEVER.

Welcome to the second edition of Fashion Faux Pas, where once again I will be cheerfully telling you how to avoid looking foolish in those fancy clothes of yours. Today we look at blazers and their buttons: 

Never button that bottom button. This is an always rule. True, at one point in history there was no rule to how one buttoned one’s blazer or suit. Ya just did whatcha felt like, or what worked. The way the story goes, King Edward VII (England, 1900’s), was just too damn fat to fit in his fully-buttoned jacket. And where the King goes, others follow. At first in an effort not to offend the king, the habit of leaving the bottom button undone soon became the standard custom across the world.

These days, blazers are actually specifically designed to leave the bottom button open. In fact, closing it causes the jacket to rest unnaturally and pull in areas, becoming unsightly, uncomfortable, and constricting.

An article I read on the Brooks Brothers blog used this picture of the Kennedy’s (courtesy of Wikipedia) to illustrate the issue. Notice that John is the only one with the both buttons closed. See the unsightly way his jacket pulls at the button and bulges at the lapel? Blech. For a more natural, relaxed look, follow his brothers’ suit (ho ho, a pun). *On a side note, JFK is also suffering from the dreaded disappearing pocket square. May he rest in peace.* Really, these days, there shouldn’t be a debate. Buttoning that button is just plain wrong.

Now that top (or middle on a three-button suit) button should stay shut, at least when you are standing. Of course, there are exceptions (feel free to open that sucker up when you sit down, or if you are engaging in some crazy physical activity, which we all try to do in our suits/blazers as much as possible, and need the extra freedom. Always sacrifice style before ripping that beautiful jacket of yours).

Generally, this is the rule to live by, top to bottom:

1. Sometimes (for those harder-to-find three-button jackets)


2. Always (middle, top, or only button)


3. Never (bottom button, as long as there’s more than one, durr)

Get it? Got it? Good. Don’t fuck it up.