'Know Your Patterns' - Houndstooth

I’ve said this before, but one of my favorite (now kind of long-term/ongoing) trends has been this resurgence of classic menswear patterns, especially when I see them being used in new ways. We talked recently about glen-plaid, which definitely falls into this category - originally mainly found in heavier wool suiting and outerwear, and now everywhere from shirts to ties to suits to bright chinos. It's just a great way to ground a ‘trend’ or new idea in something classic that has already stood the test of time.

That’s why, for our second installment of ‘Know Your Patterns,’ we are turning to the classic houndstooth check. The pattern originates in the Scottish lowlands as far back as the 1800’s, and traditionally alternates dark and light 'checks' for a look that is both refined and bold at the same time. Originally, the pattern was used pretty exclusively with heavy wool suiting and outerwear, just like Glen Plaid (and, I would guess, most patterns coming out of Scottish antiquity). Again, the application has spread widely as clothiers have experimented with the pattern in multitudes of uses.

The houndstooth pattern itself is characterized by an almost checked appearance, and is made up of repeating 'abstract' blocks with four kind-of jagged points (which is where the pattern derives its name, as the points can be reminiscent of a hounds jagged back teeth): 

There is a weaving pattern that causes this to happen, but it’s technical beyond my own interest (a quick google should pull it up for you if you are so inclined). The checks tend to run at a diagonal, giving a bit more visual interest compared to a standard square check (like a gingham). Even more variation is given by playing with the scale - more popular with women’s coats and dresses is a jumbo-scale print in stark black and white. On the other end of the spectrum is tiny puppytooth, often in a monochromatic scheme (or with subtle color differences), that function much like any other micro-pattern, appearing solid from a distance, with the visual depth clarifying as one gets closer. For the record, I love puppytooth the most - besides the cute name, it’s such a fantastic way to spice up a look without standing out like a sore thumb - in fact, to most passersby you are just wearing a solid garment, but those who know you enough to get up close can see how splendid of a dresser you really are.

The look has come in and out of popularity in waves, and is definitely feeling some time in the sun today as a pattern you can find used on almost any garment of clothing. I’ve really fallen in love with it as a tie pattern - I think it lends some old school charm to a look that I can then pump up with some more modern touches. It's also usually small enough in scale that it plays well with many patterned shirts. Brooks Brothers has a really nice option in navy that's currently pretty well discounted at $55.65 (seen below, originally $80), or you can grab this one in traditional black and white from The Tie Bar for just $15.

Houndstooth Tie | Brooks Brothers

Another subtle way to wear the pattern is in a dress shirt - which is where it really does act like micro-gingham or a micro-stripe - almost solid, but really not at all! Charles Tyrwhitt has some great shirts in puppytooth, all in warm colors like sky blue or lilac, like this one currently running just $39:

Lilac Two Color Puppytooth Dress Shirt | Charles Tyrwhitt

Progressively moving to larger pieces, I’ve been seeing summer blazers pop up with a usually light blue houndstooth pattern, which creates a really cool warm-weather vibe that doesn’t stick the standard (and some may say tired) staples like seersucker or gingham. I got a great cotton/linen jacket from Uniqlo for my birthday (pictured here on the Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets Instagram - @WideEyesTWBlog), but I believe it’s all sold out (maybe for the season). However, for not a ton more (a very reasonable and often discounted $188) J.Crew offers a very similar option - bonus, it might not suffer from the few Uniqlo faults of cropped tail and long sleeves.

Ludlow Sportcoat in Mini Houndstooth | J.Crew

If you want to go bolder, or at the same time more traditional, I suggest looking for heaving cloths and more fall/winter clothing. Where I would see a large-scale houndstooth check as kind of clownish on a shirt or tie, it looks bold and bossy on a luxe overcoat, or in muted colors on some toothy tweed. Sorry, though, we're currently too out of season for me to find an example on sale now, but I did find this shot of a fella looking damn good in a Thom Brown wool overcoat:

Photo Credit - The Bulletin

If you haven’t tried the pattern, I suggest picking up a small piece - it’s irregularity and funky shape can make it seem unapproachable, but it’s easier than you think to work into a regular ‘fit, and once you start, you won’t turn back.

How do you rock houndstooth? Do you have any favorite pieces? Share in the comments:

'Know Your Patterns' - Glen Plaid

So I took some time over the long weekend to lay out the publishing schedule for the next few months, and am happy to announce that we will be introducing two ongoing series this summer: 'Know Your Patterns' and 'Know Your Fabrics.' Obviously, these are pretty self-explanatory - here at Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets, we firmly believe that knowledge is power. By being well informed, you can make stylish purchases, avoid regrettable ones, and make sure your hard-earned money is well-spent.

This week, we're kicking off the 'Know Your Patterns' series. First, let me point out that we've previously covered seersucker, madras plaid and gingham checks, and while we may revisit these later, for the sake of freeing up some space on the blog calendar, we'll just refer you back to those original posts. 

Which brings us to today's featured pattern: Glen Plaid. Obviously, this is a plaid pattern, and therefore incorporates bi-directional stripes and lines to create alternating checks and blocks. Where other plaids (like tartan or blackwatch) use stripes of different colors, which overlap to create even more tones, glen plain is more of a series of tonal lines, usually of one or more muted colors on a neutral background. Even more distinctive, the lines come together to create houndstooth checks, rather than plain right angles and boxes. It's honestly a bit hard to describe by word, but once you see it in action you'll know exactly what we're talking about:

A typical glen plaid pattern.

The pattern gets its name from the Glenurquhart region of Scotland where the textile was first produced. Interesting tidbit - during the Duke of Windsor's time as the Prince of Wales, he became such a big fan of the pattern that Prince of Wales Check became synonymous with the pattern as well. Since then, it's been rocked by everyone from Pee Wee Herman to James Bond to Ronald Reagan:

Surprisingly, of the celebrities mentioned here,
Pee Wee's suit bears the most conservative glen plaid pattern.

Roger Moore, as James Bond, rocks his glen plaid with an injection of color.

Reagan, on the other hand, goes all out with a deep aquamarine
glen plaid suit that deemed him 'unpresidential' to many.

Honestly, I usually associate glen plaid patterned pieces with fall and winter - something about the pattern looks fantastic on a heavy tweed jacket or a toothy wool tie. However, I've been seeing it pop up on some summer pieces and have been loving the way it comes out. Where winter glen plaid tends to feature a grey background, with some small color occasionally being injected through the plaid lines, these warm-weather pieces do the opposite, with a bright background and more muted plaid lines.

Take this shirt by J.Crew for example - the berry red is a perfect punch of seasonal color. If used in a more standard, multi-color plaid, it might be too bold, but by using a monochromatic glen plaid pattern instead, the look is grounded and business-acceptable while maintaining it's brightness:

Ludlow Spread Collar Shirt in Glen Plaid | J.Crew

Similarly, these chinos from Club Monaco - featured in last week's Deals and Steals - display a bright blue hue that could easily become garish with an inadequate pattern, yet the glen plaid, instead of amping up the boldness, serves instead as a stylish accent that will be surprisingly versatile: 

Plaid Davis Chino | Club Monaco

Who else is rocking Glen Plaid this summer? How do you incorporate into your daily wardrobe?

Origins - The Button-Down Collar

One of the things about menswear that I have come to love is learning the stories behind the origins of classic staples. I’ve mentioned why suit jackets and blazers are designed to leave the bottom button unbottoned, and briefly touched on the history of the button-down shirt, but it’s a topic that fascinates me enough that I’m going to start writing dedicated posts to the history of men’s style items and terms. First on the list, we will return to the button-down so I can give the whole story:

The button-down collar has been around for a long time, but was originally used only in sportingwear, and wasn’t adapted for the menswear fashion world until the late 1800’s. Legend has it that John Brooks (of the Brooks Brothers family) took a trip to the UK in 1986 and saw the collars being used by polo players. Tradition required the players to wear collared shirts, but they had found the collars to have a tendence to flap around and be quite a visual distraction while they were playing. Buttoning down the collars was simply a practical solution to a logistical problem. John Brooks took a liking to the style of the shirt and brought it back to the States when he returned, introducing it to the Brooks Brothers lineup and creating an American prep classic. Pictured here is my OCBD from Frank and Oak (one of my favorite shirts):



Just a short little story, but I love knowing these things, and it tends to boggle people’s minds when I can pull random tidbits like this out over drinks, which is always fun too!