'Know Your Patterns' - Paisley

For this week's edition of 'Know Your Patterns,' we are taking a quick divergence from your more basic and fundamental menswear patterns to look at something a bit more unique, if not any less classic: Paisley.

Paisley is an especially interesting pattern due to it's extensive history and widely varied application and use. Depending on where you're reading, the pattern dates as far back as Babylon circa 2200 BC or as recently as Persian and Indian cultures in the 200's AD. The pattern is defined by a characteristic twisted teardrop shape, the origin of which is widely speculated. Some think it to be a vague mixture of a floral pattern and the shape of a cypress leaf, while others link it more specifically to other natural shapes like a budding palm frond or a pine cone.

Through the ages, the pattern spread, gaining popularity in Europe as it was traded en masse by the East India Company in the 1600's, shortly after which it began to be produced locally in Marseilles, England, Holland, and other European countries.

In time, the town of Paisley, Scotland became a central producer and eventually the namesake of the design in Western cultures (more historically, the pattern was called Boteh Jegheh by the Persian cultures in which it originated).

Later, paisley was widely embraced by the hippie, 'flower child' culture that latched on to Indian and Middle Eastern aesthetics, especially following the Beatles famous pilgrimage to India in the late 1960's.

Throughout it's history, the paisley pattern has been applied to any number of goods, from fine woven textiles of silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, to printed twill, to ceramics and pottery, Persian rugs, even garden landscaping. Among the menswear circles, it's most commonly found on neckties and pocket squares, although folks with bolder tastes will mix it into shirting, trousers, and sport coats as well.

To some, any mention of the pattern brings to mind these bright, psychedelic applications and are associated with other cheesy 70's icons like shag carpet and bell-bottoms, although recently there has been some return to a more classic and subtle use of the pattern.

Still, even today, the pattern is designed in a wide variety of styles. My favorite tend to be the more minimalist applications, with just the characteristic 'leaf' on a plain background. Some of the busier designs can veer towards the garish side of style, and should probably be avoided, but you can find some ornate patterns that really recall the Persian  heritage behind the design and come off really sharply when used in moderation (as in, on a tie - not a full shirt or sport coat).

Below are a range of options to inject some paisley into your life:

First, we have the uber-budget option, turning (as usual) to the Tie Bar, which clocks in at just $15. First is an all-blue option that is subtle and an easy entry point that won’t be hard to style:

Relic Paisley in Navy Cotton | The Tie Bar - $15

I’m also kind of into this brighter green fabric, which is a bit more untraditional, but very summery and season-appropriate.

Tears of Paisley in Emerald Linen | The Tie Bar - $15

Slightly up the ladder, J. Press offers literally dozens of paisley ties in a wide variety of colors and scales. This one, in a simpler blue and yellow color scheme, is one of my favorites (and currently on sale, which is a bonus):

Foulard Paisley in Navy | J. Press - $41.70 (on sale)

If you want to try out a more ornate pattern, ‘Ancient Madder’ ties are intricate but in darker, dustier colors and usually in a twill weave, as opposed to something in bright colors on a shiny satin fabric, which I think tends to look more tacky. This option from Brooks Brothers isn’t cheap, but isn’t wildly expensive and is a fine, classy example:

Ancient Madder Large Paisley Print Tie in Navy | Brooks Brothers - $57.50 (on sale)

Of course, you can always go big and get a shirt or jacket with an all-over paisley print. In my opinion, this is much easier to do with casual gear, where bold prints won’t veer out of appropriate business-casual attire (or other more structured situations). This short-sleeve, lightweight shirt from Denim & Supply might be a good place to start (and at under $50, not a big financial risk).

Paisley Woven Shirt | Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren - $50 (on sale)

Do you have any paisley in your wardrobe? Getting funky with any big bold prints? Share in the comments!

Father's Day with Bill Thomas of Bills Khakis

Happy early Father's Day to all the dad's out there - mine was the best. Look at me, stuntin in my high-top All Stars!
 My dad might not have been big on fashion, but those fades would be the envy of many a denim head today!

I spent some time trying to think of a great way to approach a Father's Day post. On personal holidays like this, I don't like to suggest specific gifts, because our circumstances (and our dads) can be (and probably are) very different. There also isn't some standard of attire or event for this day (like there is for St. Patrick's or even Memorial Day), so, hell wear whatever you want. Anyway, I was dancing around the subject until I got an email from some of the reps for Bills Khakis, offering to set up an interview with Bill himself (founder Bill Thomas) to chat about the holiday.

Bills Khakis is a company I've had on my radar for a long time, but never got to try out myself. My interpretation of them, up to this point, was as a company blurring the lines between modern and traditional - offering classic and durable worker chinos alongside more slim-fit and modern options, and managing to make the distinction between the two much less pronounced - which I think is pretty awesome! I browsed their merch, read a bit more about the company, and was definitely interested enough to set up the interview.

On a little side note - I half expected a pretty 'promotional,' one-sentence answers, 'buy our stuff' interview, and was really impressed with the thought Bill took into answering my questions, and I think the interview turned out really well. In fact, I'm still waiting on some samples that they are sending me so that I can get an in-person feel of their products and judge them myself (and pass the deets on to you folks), but I couldn't wait to get this on the blog, and especially wanted to do so in time for the upcoming holiday. Soooo, here's the (short) interview - Bill does have some recommendations specific to his brand, so check out their goods (they've got a really solid rep, so I wouldn't hesitate if you see something you like), but there's also some good thoughts here on bridging the generational style gap. Here we go:

As a young menswear blogger looking ahead to Father's day and apparel or style related gifts, I keep coming back to the potential 'style gap' between young fashion-forward guys and their fathers - as in, I love my dad's style, and he definitely appreciates mine, but there isn't a lot of crossover between the two. Where my dad is a meat-and-potatoes, jeans-and-tee kind of guy, I like things a little more tailored and a little more bold.

I think Bills Khakis is great in that you cover a both ends of the spectrum. How do you and your team successfully approach the balance between trendy or modern and classic or timeless?

Bill Thomas: "Simple, purposeful and authentic. The Bills Khakis brand has grown from the values represented by an original pair of WWII khakis I found at an army surplus store while I was in college. These timeless characteristics serve as a compass for men’s fashion in America across all generations. Each generation redefines the nuances, but the building blocks are the same. It’s our job to evolve in concert with this progression. “Fit” is a primary driver with color, wash and detailing also playing a part. Our design efforts take this all into account. Our “Tea Label” Collection is a great example of how Bills Khakis can speak to a more trend oriented customer, who often is younger, while our original label continues to drive business with customers whose personal style is more traditional."

Can you suggest some approaches to Father's day gift buying for style-minded guys with dad's that...

M3 Trim Fit Poplin Pant in Marine

...want to try new modern styles, but still act their age?

"Get your father into a slightly more tailored fitting pair of khakis and shirt. WORD OF CAUTION! Even if your dad runs triathlons, he will likely not want the fit to be super trim. He’ll never be comfortable wearing skinny fit anything, and frankly, if you saw him wearing a pair you would probably agree. Our M3 pant fit and “Tailored Fit” shirts strike the perfect balance of comfort and updated fit. Throw in a cool belt and make sure the shoe is right and you've brought your father into 2014."

Supima® Pique Polo

...have a solid sense of style, but like to stick to the classics?

"In addition to our WWII inspired khakis, there are great stories behind many of the products we make - stories that will help your father see what they are wearing in a different light. For example, our Supima® Polo shirt is not only cut and sewn in America, the cotton was grown and harvested here as well. For those not familiar with Supima®, it’s among the finest cottons in the word. Supima® is strong, color fast but still breathable and soft!"

Oxford Gingham Shirt

...might enjoy some stylish flair, but don't even know it?

"Add a little color. Like khaki, “navy” really isn’t a color when it comes to pants or shorts. Easy to wear shades include: Wicker, Sage, Pewter, and Marine. Also, a blue gingham check shirt will be a giant step for his sense of style."

...have little interest in style (or the way they dress), and might benefit from a (very subtle) 'nudge' in the right direction?

"Chances are this dad has always bought the lowest price anything he can find. Introduce them to “quality” merchandise. The experience of wearing exceptional products will enlighten him. Chances are he’ll never splurge on himself."

Last, on a more personal note, I'm actually a native Pennsylvanian, now living in Chicago, so I relate to your background. Something that's always been very interesting, though occasionally challenging as well, has been coming from/living in these areas where style and fashion aren't as front-and-center as places like NYC or LA. I'd love to hear how this has affected your style as well as the development of his brand!

"I have never considered Bills Khakis a fashion brand in the sense we need to “drive” fashion. However, we do need to be “on tend” to remain relevant. Chicago reflects how most of America dresses - think of NYC and LA as two strong magnets with Chicago in the middle. Chicago will never get pulled too hard left or right, but it will oscillate."

Big thanks to Bill for taking the time to speak with me, and a big thanks to all the Dads out there, for being Dads - awesome Dads, I hope - and the biggest thanks of all to my own Dad, who's the coolest guy I know and really helped make me who I am. And, of course, my heart is with my Pappy and Grandpa, may they rest in peace, I miss you uber-dads every day.

Curled up, thumb in my mouth, my 'ginky' (blanket), while my dad reads me 'The Night Before Christmas.'
Couldn't have been happier.

Bonus: Any expecting Dad's out there? If your beautiful baby is born on Father's Day (June 15th, 2014), Bills Khakis will send you a pair of Authentic Khaki's on the house. Can't beat that, a baby and some killer menswear in one day...just gotta get that timing right!