The To-Do List: Setting Goals and Meeting Them

I was sorting through some old drafts and documents on my computer the other day and ran across an old list of sartorial goals. I was originally going to write a post based on this list when I first wrote it, pointing out that, while I'm here dispensing advice to you folks, I have a lot of improvements I want to make myself. The article never really came into fruition, and I honestly kind of forgot about the 'to-do' list that I had made. Stumbling upon it again now, it's actually really encouraging, because, for the most part, even without looking at it every day, I lived up to my goals and can cross most of these items off:

• Tie a good tie with a strong dimple at the right length in less than 20 minutes. - Boom. I've got my tie-tying down to an art. I actually had one of my best friends come visit the other week, and we got all inebriated and had a tie-the-knot drinking game/contest (at 2 in the morning on a Tuesday, much to my girlfriend's dismay). I have some awesome and ridiculous pictures from the night, which I'll share someday.

• Don't somehow, mysteriously, fuck up my shoes every time I wear them on things like, no joke, cracks in the sidewalk. - This one I honestly still struggle with, haha, but I'm not exactly sure how to work on it. I will say that, in general, as I've dressed better and better, I've really noticed myself moving with more care and purpose. I think I can safely say that I'm a generally less sloppy person, in large part because it's hard enough to afford to buy clothes (and shoes) once, let alone replace them because of my own damn clumsiness. So, I'm gonna call this one a win too.

• Don't get stuck on one outfit that worked really great, and then wear it over and over. - Another one I think I pass with flying colors. In fact, I may have taken this into problem territory on the other end of the spectrum. Instead of struggling with wearing the same things, I struggle with a need to wear something new or different every day, whether it's a whole new piece or even just a new combination, and it's become a bit of an insecurity in it's own regard. Brian Sacawa  of He Spoke Style started his own blog with the idea of wearing a 'uniform' every day for a year, and I think that challenge takes a whole different level of confidence.  

• Find a really good fitting jean. - I give myself a half-check on this goal. I've gotten a better fitting jean, but still don't have that one, high-quality, perfect-fitting piece of denim that denim-heads tend to gush over. I'm giving myself a pass though...I purposefully held off on this all summer just waiting for the weather to cool down a bit so I could justify buying some mid-weight denim that isn't really hot-as-sin-and-humid-as-all-getout compatible. Now that the temps are cooler, as soon as my bank account can handle it I'll be grabbing pair, probably from Gustin or Dyer and Jenkins.

• Find a great tailor and build a relationship with him. - Alas, I can't really check this bad boy off the list, which is sad, because it's probably the most important item on here. Like I say all the time, fit is everything, and a tailor is the best way to get that perfect fit on every item of clothing you wear. Right now, I'm struggling with Chicago's selection of tailors...too many expensive options that get less-than-desirable reviews. Unfortunately, I don't have the spare funds (or clothing) to really dive into the trial-and-error fiasco that finding a solid tailor can be. The Peter Field seamstress gets my whole-hearted endorsement for alterations like taking in a shirt, and I have a last-ditch high end fella that I take more complicated work to if need be, but I still am looking for someone to fill that middle ground.

• Wear a blazer/jacket on a daily basis (and not just for warmth). - When I first started taking my daily wear to the next level, I limited myself to shirts and ties, and really only threw a blazer on as an extra layer in colder months. I'm proud to say that I am now comfortable wearing a blazer on a day-to-day basis as a part of my basic outfit. I honestly think I've actually evolved sartorially past this step by recognizing that nothing should be an every-day-no-matter-what necessity, and instead dress on a day-to-day, by-the-occasion basis. Happily though, these days this involves a blazer more often than not.

• Wear pocket squares (with confidence). - Man, I was so very timid when first stepping into the pocket-square game, and unnecessarily so. I now have a small but decent selection and try to wear one as often as I wear a blazer. I've even started experimenting with throwing them into less formal outfits, tossing one in the back pocket of my pants, or the breast pocket of a shirt or casual jacket. Instead of being an element that makes me nervous and hesitant, I now accessorize with confidence.

The whole point: not only is it great to have a list of goals to pursue, it's also great to recognize when you've achieved some of those goals and allow yourself a good pat on the back. Now it's time for me to create a new list, tuck it away somewhere for a few months, and see if I live up to my own aspirations and expectations. I'll keep you posted.

A 'Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets' Fall Preview

I know I just wrote last week that there is still plenty of summer left, but one of my favorite things about men's style and fashion is getting to enjoy todays trends while already looking forward to tomorrow's. That in mind, here is a quick preview of the things I'm looking forward to that will come with the cooler weather.

Cardigans:

I love sweaters in general, but I'm especially particular to cardigans, and they are one of my favorite layering pieces. I love the way that a cardigan transcends the casual/formal border. For example, throw one on buttoned up under a blazer, and you have a dressed-down three-piece. Wear one loose over a tee and you have a bit classier of a sweatshirt jacket. I've been meaning to try out the brand Scotch and Soda, and I've got my eye on their dark-red cardigan to mix things up in my sea of greys and blues:

Shawl Collars:

This kind of goes along with cardigans and sweaters, but I can't wait to get back to my addiction to shawl collars. Can't really tell you what I love so much about them...but I think it has something to with the smooth line that the roll of the shawl makes, adding heft to a sweater without making it bulky or cumbersome. J. Crew offers a shawl neck pullover with a nautical stripe pattern, which would fulfill another of my latest obsessions:

Tweed:

I've honestly been putting off buying another summer blazer in anticipation of getting to invest in some great tweed options. Tweed has been one of my favorite fabrics since before I even knew anything about style, which goes to show how great it looks, even to the untrained eye. On top of that, I don't think tweed has ever gone out of style, nor will it. If I go custom (which I will, if I can afford it), this brown number from Indochino is high on my list:

Heavy Denim:

One of the sartorial leaps I have yet to take is getting into high quality denim. As the plethora of denim-heads out there will tell you, there's a world of a difference between a pair of $50 Levi's from Macy's and a pair of selvage jeans constructed from heavy, raw Japanese twill.  Summer was definitely not the time to try these out, but come fall I'm definitely picking up a pair that I'm sure will quickly become my go-to non-business pants. Gustin makes some great-looking, affordable selvage jeans, and just announced that they will be regularly stocking their Japan Classic line (most weaves are limited releases):

Boots:

This one is a big IF in my book, mainly dependent on IF I can ever afford them. I tout thrifted and eBay'ed shoes left and right, but at some point you gotta invest in a pair of high quality, new shoes that will form to your feet and be an investment that will pay off for years. I fully plan on making my first pair some wingtip brogue boots (especially appropriate for dealing with Chicago winters here in the windy city). I've heard nothing but great things about Allen Edmonds' Dalton boot, and would give an arm and a leg for my own pair:

And to top it all off, and bring a lot of these together, Layering. The highlight of pretty much any menswear enthusiasts year, the options that come with colder weather are like a friggin playground. I honestly get giddy just thinking about it...blazers on vests on sweaters on shirts, wool on cashmere on denim, contrasts and compliments, the options are really endless. After trying to pare everything down as much as possible during the sweltering heat of the summer, finally getting to layer again is a pleasure. 

For Those Of Us Who Aren't Denim-Heads...

Over the past few years there has been a growing craze for high-quality denim in the menswear world. Gone are the days of the 90's dad-jeans, and jeans are no longer relegated to casual-only settings. These days, denim works just as well with a blazer as it does a ratty T-shirt, and it's not out of the norm to be dropping up to $200 a pair.

Now, for those of us who aren't denim-heads (see how I used the title there?), there are a lot of terms thrown around that you're probably very used to hearing but don't know exactly what they mean, the most common of these being 'selvage' or 'selvedge' denim. Personally, this is one of those terms that I looked up a few times way back when I started to develop my own style, but when my girlfriend asked me the other day what it meant, I realized I had a really hard time explaining it, so this post is as much for my own good as it is any of yours.

Selvage (or selvedge in the UK) is actually short for 'self-edge,' and can refer to really any type of fabric, but most often you will hear it in reference to denim. It describes a specific method of finishing the edges of a woven fabric. In an earlier post on chambray fabric, I explained the difference between 'warp' and 'weft' threads. With selvage denim, the 'self-edge' runs vertically (parallel to the warp), and is created by the weft threads being looped back at the end of each row. The result is an edge that, unlike a cut and hemmed edge, won't fray or unravel. My understanding is that this method tends to be more expensive because the size of each piece of denim is determined during the weaving process, as the edges are woven in, where standard edges are merely cut and hemmed and can therefore really be implemented anywhere on the cloth.

Gustin's #48 Selvage Denim

Ok, quick disclaimer: nobody chew my head off if I'm a little off-base here. I'm not a seamster (yep, drawing a blank on the masculine term for seamstress, so I'm making up my own word), and like I said before, I'm not a denim-head, so this is all based off some quick research and my own rudimentary understanding. That said, this information goes quite a ways in explaining both the appeal of selvage denim and the more costly nature of the fabric.

As I mentioned, these days selvage denim of a decent quality (we recommend staying away from most low-end options like JCP selvage, based off relatively unfavorable feedback across the boards), but some lower-cost options are out there that are worth your hard-earned dollars but won't leave you penniless at the end of the day. The one brand that we've been hearing great things about is the up-and-coming Gustin denim out of San Francisco. Launched via a very successful Kickstarter campaign and still run based off a crowd-sourcing model, Gustin is yet another brand kicking out all those middle-men and designing, manufacturing, and retailing all of their own apparel. This allows them to offer high quality denim in a constantly-changing variety of weights and washes for a low standard price of only $81. I personally haven't gotten to try a pair yet, mainly because I have a pair of dark blue jeans that I love and another pair isn't top priority on my summer shopping-list, but the general reaction has been only positive and the price can't be beat. I definitely plan on snagging a pair when my budget is better aligned to do so, and will for-sure give you folks a detailed review when I do.

On that note, sorry to not be giving you a 'memorial day cook-out' post or something along those lines, but it was only 45 degrees in Chicago when I left my apartment this morning, so I'm really not in the mood. Deal with it.