Outfit Post: The Building Blocks

It’s been a while since I’ve thrown up an outfit post, and even longer since I’ve featured a more dressed-up look, so I figured it was about time. However, I’m taking a slightly different approach this time, as I was hoping to focus on and share my usual method for building an outfit.

A lot of guys (including myself, at one point), get to a point where they have the sartorial education/know-how to put together a strong wardrobe of well-fitting, stylish pieces, but struggle to put them together into a coherent outfit. One of the most common questions I see is “where do I start?” With that in mind, here’s how I do it.

I try to start every outfit with one piece. This may be a new article of clothing that I’m really excited to wear or an old one that I’ve been meaning to work back into my rotation. It may be a bold, statement piece, or a neutral base. It might be as front-and-center as a blazer, or as behind-the-scenes as a pair of socks or pocket square. The point is, this piece acts as the foundation for the rest of the building blocks that will come together to form my outfit.

For this look, I started with my blue and off-white plaid blazer from Gagliardi. It’s one of my favorite pieces, from the fit to the construction to the style, but I wear it far less than I would like, simply because the bold pattern makes it trickier to match (and a little less office-friendly). This weekend, I dressed up my off-duty look a bit more than I have been this summer, and decided it would be a good chance to have the freedom to rock this bad boy. So boom, foundation piece and starting point:

From there, every decision comes back to this one piece. You could go any direction, but I went to pants next. While I didn’t have the restrictions of an office dress code to work with, the blazer is still pretty in-your-face, as far as style goes. Therefore, I decided right away to tone down the rest of my pieces. I also wanted to dress down the tailored look a bit, since it was still the weekend. Thus, for pants, the easy choice was a pair of dark blue jeans: a subtle and neutral pair of pants that were casual enough for the occasion but sharp enough for the combination, and in a blue that will play well with the colors in the jacket:

When it came to the shirt, the patterned blazer immediately dictated a solid shirt (or at the very least a very subtle pattern). Beyond that, I took the same mindset as I did with my pants, and picked what I consider to be the shirt equivalent of a pair of crisp blue jeans: a white OCBD. Again, weekend-casual, but fitting to wear with a tailored blazer. Where I played off the darker colors in the blazer when picking the jeans, this time around I brought out the lighter contrasting notes and picked a white shirt over blue:

From there, I just kept up those same themes as I picked out accessories and final touches. A knit cotton tie, a chambray pocket square, a brown belt and blue suede brogues with no-show socks. Each seems like (and is) a pretty straightforward choice, but if you look at the path that took me to each piece, it always starts with the blazer.

Of course, there are numerous other techniques and considerations to take into account: color-matching, pattern-matching, balance, seasonality, the list goes on and on (and some are mentioned throughout this article). However, starting with a foundation piece as we suggest here gives you the palette upon which you apply all of those other principles. It’s in no way the only factor in the equation, but it’s a strong and simple place to start.

Outfit Details:

Gagliardi Plaid Cotton/Wool Blazer
Levi's 513 Blue Jeans
Uniqlo White Slim OCBD
Thrifted Vintage Woven Belt (similar, new)
J.Crew Factory Blue Cotton Knit Tie
Past The Pocket Chambray Pocket Square
Bass Blue Suede Shoes (similar)
PACT No-Show Socks (unseen)

What's your method of choice? Share in the comments below!

Jeans vs. Denim

First, just a quick logistical mention: As things have been uber-busy, we're temporarily going back to two posts a week, rather than three. However, we do have a ton of good stuff in the pipeline that has to get fit into the schedule, so this change may be short-lived (or flexible, at the very least)! Anyway, just wanted to keep y'all abreast of the goings-on round here. On to the article:

I'm admittedly a sucker for terminology, and as much as I love learning the definitions and origins of menswear nomenclature, it bugs the hell out of me when people (especially professionals) get it mixed up! Sure, in the big scope of things, it's not the end of the world, but as a personal pet peeve, I'll keep trying to shed light on the correct classifications as much as possible.

With that in mind, today I want to take a look at a common misnomer, and the distinction between 'denim' fabric and 'jeans' trousers.

Pretty regularly, the two terms are kind of jumbled together, when there is actually a pretty significant difference between the two - and it's not even that the terms aren't interchangeable. In fact, they refer to two completely different categories.

As I alluded to above, 'denim' refers to a fabric, while 'jeans' refers to a cut of pants.

Denim is merely a sturdy cotton twill fabric woven with (traditionally) indigo warp threads, and undyed, white weft threads that provide the signature color and fading of denim fabric. Beyond that, the fabric (and terminology) is not limited to pants at all, but can be applied to literally anything, from shirts to jackets to ties to even shoes, and even inside the 'pants' category, it can be used to make traditional 'jeans' or more formally cut trousers, or even the dreaded 'jorts'.

Denim, not jeans. Notice the fabric - and the fact that they aren't pants.

So what are 'jeans' then? Jeans are a very specific cut of pants, inherently casual, and yes, most commonly made out of denim. Originally, the term was used for work pants that were introduced by Levi Strauss in the 1800's. These pants were reinforced at 'stress points' with copper rivets, and were at first made with just three pockets. Over time, the design developed and two more pockets were added, for a total of five (two in the back, two at the hips, and coin pocket), thus the now-interchangeable term 'five-pocket pants (or jeans).' Like I said, these days jeans are most often made out of a denim fabric, but they were actually first made out of canvas, and today can be found in corduroy as well as other fabrics, usually more hefty and sturdy than more formal trouser materials.

Jeans, not denim. Notice the five-pocket styling and riveted seams, but canvas fabric.

So there you have it - not a life-changing distinction, but it never hurts to get it right!

Deals and Steals for the Weekend - 1/31/2014

Finally back on the grind with a working computer. Also home sick today, so I have some time to throw together a Deals and Steals!

Free Shipping at J.Crew Factory (Today Only, Code FREESHIP):
First off, J.Crew Factory is offering free shipping today (and today only, so jump on this fast). There aren't any other markdowns, but this is a great opportunity to snatch up some cheap accessories. I'll be grabbing this wool tie at just $15.

Wool Triple-Stripe Tie | J.Crew Factory

I've been a big fan of every J.Crew tie I've bought, and the clearance discount plus free shipping puts this one at a less-than-Tie-Bar price. Easy pick.

I also recommend picking up this card-holder/wallet. A slim wallet like this is a great chance to reduce your bulk and keep your silhouette trim. I have one myself, and the leather is nice and has aged well over time.

Leather Card Holder | J.Crew Factory

Again, the clearance markdown to just $15 makes this an easy buy on any budget. I'm a big fan of the classic brown, but they have a few other colors available as well.

BONUS: My girlfriend is a big fan of J.Crew (and factory) necklaces, and they've got a 40% off sale going on in their women's jewelry section. V-day is coming up....


Additional 40% Off Sale Items at Bonobos (Code TOASTY):
This one has been going on for a while, but now everything is knocked down to Final Sale. Stinks if you are unsure of your sizing, but this also means that the seasonal sale is probably on it's last legs and won't be around much longer. So, if you're thinking of grabbing something, now is the time! I'm a huge fan of the fit of Bonobos pants, and even with the Final Sale, you should be safe going with your regular size, in a slim-straight fit. Sizing is getting pretty limited, but luckily they have these maple brown cords in my size:

French Corders in Maple | Bonobos

I have yet to pick up a pair of cords this winter, and they are one of my favorite seasonal fabrics, so I'll most likely be jumping on this last chance, especially at the affordable price of $40.

It's also worth taking a look beyond the pants that Bonobos is known for. I bought a few of their sweaters lately and have been loving them (slim-fit in the merino wool and you can't go wrong). This time, I'm looking forward to spring and taking advantage of some super low prices on tees. I'm really digging this one in a nautical stripe:

Vintage Wash Tee | Bonobos

At under $10 with the discount, I'll probably grab one or two in classic white as well...it's a menswear wardrobe staple, and mine are getting a bit worn.


Additional 30% Off Sale Items at Original Penguin (Code OPSALE30):
I don't shop at Original Penguin too often, but everything I've gotten from them has been solid and stylish, and this sale has some good deals available. For one, I'm still on a huge warm-sweater kick as the weather stays nice and crappy here in Chicago. OP has a V-neck lambswool option for under $25 after the discount:

Hector Lambswool V-Neck Sweater | Original Penguin

Not much more to be said...that's a steal of a price and a darn cozy-looking sweater.

While you're at it, you can grab a sharp dress shirt to wear underneath. They have several options, but this windowpane is classy, and would be very versatile as well:

Windowpane Dress Shirt | Original Penguin

I don't have personal experience with Original Penguin dress shirts, and there isn't a fit description, but at $30, you should have a few bucks left over in case this needs a quick trip to the tailor.


Clearance Sale at Imogene + Willie:
Ever since Imogene + Willie was featured in an episode of Alternate Route (by the way, Esquire is killing it with their TV Network), I've been dying to get a pair of their jeans. Unfortunately, their super-premium denim is usually way out of my price range. However, there are some HUGE discounts in their sale section right now that have me tempted to whip out my credit card. For example, these black rigid straight-legs are sharp, and marked down to just $105 from an original $275.

Willie Black Rigid | Imogene + Willie

Everyone is all about their indigo blue jeans, but black can be just as versatile and sometimes even better-looking. I've been on the lookout for a pair, and might not be anymore.

The rest of the sale ain't cheap, but the discounts are still hard to beat. If you've been considering dropping some dough on a premium button-down, Gitman did a line for Imogene + Willie, and this dark blue shirt stands out in the shop:

Navy Gitman for IW | Imogene + Willie

Like I said, $80 for a shirt isn't a steal, but when you consider the original price of $165, it just might be a deal.


I'll leave you with a final recommendation: check out sales in person! I'm an online shopping addict and do most of my buying from the comfort of my couch, but you can catch some crazy good discounts in-person. Perfect example: I stopped in at Gap on a whim last week, walked out of the store with a pair of buttery-soft and cozy-warm moleskin Chinos for less than $10. I can't even find the damn things online, so there's no way I would have gotten a deal like that without actually walking into the store. Goes to show, it's worth getting off your ass every so often!

Trashness - In-Person Review

Be proud, this post was done without my personal computer whatsoever. Also, keep that in mind if critiquing any formatting and/or spelling errors.

I had seen shirts by a brand called Trashness popping up here and there on the internet at pretty awesome prices, and ended up suggesting that you all check them out in one of my 'Deals and Steals' posts. I also commented that I hadn't seen a ton of reviews around the web, and a few weeks later, Trashness shot me an e-mail to see if I'd like to help fill that void, so here we go!

The Brand:

As has become tradition, first we'll give the folks from Trashness the chance to tell us about their brand and plug themselves a little bit. I spoke with Amin Eftegarie, co-founder, via e-mail. Here's what he had to share:

"We're based in the Netherlands, in a small town called Nieuw-Vennep (suburbs of Amsterdam). The rent is low here. The Dutch are known for trying to save money in every situation you can think of. That state of mind helped us to cut costs. And as you noticed we offer free worldwide shipping on all products, so 99% of our orders are outside NL. (our top destinations: USA, Italy, UK, Japan etc). We care a little less about our profit margins, and a little more about getting students across the world the style and quality of clothing we wished some company was offering when we were broke students. 

We've been around since 12-12-12. At least officially, on this date we registered Trashness at the Dutch chamber of commerce. But my co-founder Maarten and I were obsessing about menswear long before that. We often discussed what other brands were doing. And sometimes we wondered why they were doing it (in such a way). Why aren't they doing it another, to us more rational/gratifying way? We went on a journey which ended with the establishment of Trashness. 

Perhaps all those company background stories might sound the same. The best communication we do, is trough the quality and branding of our products and the awesome custom service we give when something's not up to our standards."

I selected probably their most classically styled shirts, but they also have a lot of more aggressively styled options, including a wide selection of extreme cut-away collars (not quite my style, but if that's your thing, definitely take a look). They also offer accessories from ties to pocket squares to bracelets, and recently I saw a line of cotton cardigans pop up that looked mighty tempting.

The Shirts:

Trashness was kind enough to actually send me two shirts to try out. The fit on both shirts was pretty darn nice, for right off the rack. Trashness had actually cautioned me that their shirts run extra slim, and since I have yet to find a shirt that istoo slim for me, I was hoping this would be darn snug. It comes pretty close, there's still a bit of room, which is probably for the best, as most slim guys will probably have a few inches on me anyway. As it is, I don't think I will need to tailor it at all. Points! (Editors Note: Fit pictures will come, pending more cooperative outdoor lighting). 

The first shirt I picked was their white OCBD ($44 via the Trashness store). 

OCBD White | Trashness

http://www.trashness.com/product/ocbd-white

Not only is this shirt a staple that no man can have enough of, I've been on a huge kick with them lately, wearing them almost everyday. I love how much I can play around with the rest of an outfit when it's anchored by a classic like a white OCBD. Anyway, when it came down to it, this was the least impressive of the two shirts, mainly due to lower quality fabric. While the shirting felt sturdy enough, there was a lot of fraying along the edges, seams and buttonholes. 

One instance of fraying fabric.

Additionally, there wasn't quite a nice roll to the button-down collar...when worn with a tie I kept getting weird dents and crinkles, and the collar wouldn't just lay flat. 

Just not the best collar roll ever.

In all fairness, Amin also mentioned that they will soon be upgrading their OCBD fabric, so all this might be moot in a short while.

That being said, My second choice was a spread collar denim shirt ($44 via the Trashness store), which I thought was fantastic:

Spread Collar Denim | Trashness

http://www.trashness.com/product/spread-collar-denim

I've been hunting down a spread collar denim dress shirt that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg, and this fits the bill nicely. The fabric here is much cleaner, and I'm a big fan of the heft. It's a bit thicker than a lightweight chambray, but doesn't feel like you're wearing a jean jacket. Amin told me, "It's enzyme washed. We had another denim shirt which was great, and softer after a couple of washes. So this shirt is already pre-washed, giving you the softness right from the start." The spread collar and lack of chest pockets keep the silhouette trim, and I'd definitely wear this with a tie and/or a blazer. Just a few areas they could improve: why no collar stays? Or at least slots? A curled up collar can be so detrimental to a look, and it's such an easy fix! 

Some collars should roll, but these shouldn't.

Also, I can't decide if I like the contrast stitching (reminiscent of denim jeans). 

Contrast Button-Hole

On one hand, I like the way it hearkens to the stitching on your jeans, but on the other, I think it takes away from the formality of the shirt in a slightly out-of-place way.

My only other beef, with both shirts, is the embroidered logo at the hip. 

Too much branding! Also, more sloppy needlework.

I just like my shirts (dress shirt especially) to be logo-and-embellishment-free. I won't even buy Polo Ralph Lauren shirts if the little polo man is embroidered in a contrast color. While it's a nifty little logo, keeping it on the tag should be enough. It's not a huge deal, but I think it detracts a bit from an otherwise clean, sharp look. Maybe my tailor can pick it out without leaving any noticeable holes...

The Bottom Line:

There are indeed better shirts to be had, but they will be hard to find at $45. If fit is your biggest concern (rather than high fabric quality), this is definitely not a bad choice. Fit is sharp and modern, and better than you'll get from most OTR choices, but construction and fabric quality seem to be a bit sub-par, at least on certain options. The branding on the shirt keeps them from being 100% office-ready (although said branding is easily hidden under a cardigan or blazer).

This was a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were provided to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by Trashness. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself. 

Deals and Steals for the Weekend - Black Friday Edition

I almost wasn't going to post at all since I'm home with the family, but it is Black Friday so I slapped together the following list of great holiday sales and some of my own picks. I'm sure I'll be shopping myself throughout the day, and I'll add any other finds I come across, so keep checking back for updates! (SEE UPDATES AT END OF POST)

Tie Society Annual Sale (no code needed):
For a limited time, Tie Society is offering a free month when you purchase a gift subscription or sign up for a new membership. On top of that, the first ten customers each day will receive a custom Tie Society flask.

You can check out our review of Tie Society here, but I'll tell you right now it's a helluva service. At its simplest, it's the Netflix of ties, but it's so much more. Head over and check it out, the offer stands through 12/2/13.


25% off at Beckett Simonon (code TURKEY):
Dub-monks are still all the rage in the menswear world, but it can be tough to find a decent pair without handing over your firstborn child. Enter Beckett Simonon, who offers Goodyear-welted shoes at a relatively-unheard of price of just $140, and their 25% Black Friday discount drops them down to a hella-affordable $105.

Hoyt Double Monk Straps | Beckett Simonon

The Beckett Simonon Hoyt Double-Monk features a rounded toe box with a cap-toe and semi-brogue detailing for a perfect balance of style and subtlety. Grab a pair, or check out their other, equally dashing options.


50% Off Sitewide at Express (through 12:00 PM 12/29):
Express is offering an awesome half-off sale on absolutely everything in their inventory. I don't shop at Express all that often, but they remain one of the few stores that offers truly fitted shirts that even super-scrawny folks like myself won't need to take to the tailor. I'm a big fan of this Tartan Plaid shirt, which is perfect for the holiday season.

Fitted Tartan Plaid Shirt | Express

Dress it down with jeans, or throw on a wool tie for some cozy biz-casual. At this point, the deal ends at noon on Black Friday, but I'm sure it will be replaced by something new. If I have the time and presence of mind, I'll check it out and keep you posted.


Five Days of Style - Frank & Oak's Black Friday Event (no code needed):
Frank & Oak only has sale items intermittently, and they usually have some great deals when they do, so I'm always sure to at least give them a look. This holiday, they have a lot of great shirts, many in seasonable flannel or chambray fabrics. I always tout their shirts, though, but this year my eye has really been drawn to their bags, and a few of those landed in this sale as well.

Hyde Mountaineering Backpack | Frank & Oak

I'm especially digging this 'mountaineering' pack. It's made of durable canvas with a drawstring closure and leather straps. I have a great brief-case-type bag for days in the office, but I'd love one of these when I'm lugging junk around on a weekend or a trip home to see the folks.


40% Off and Free Shipping (no minimum) at Levi's (code SAVE40):
Unless your a denim-head on the hunt for some crazy $200+ selvedge jeans, it's hard to argue with a pair of Levi's to meet all of your denim needs. On top of that, they have the quintessential denim trucker and a pretty solid line-up of non-denim duds as well.

513 Slim Straight Jeans in Bastion | Levi's

The Black Friday sale drops this pair of dark rinse jeans down to only $32, and free shipping is always a huge plus in my book. I actually just bought this same pair at a Nordstrom Rack sale and this price is even better than the steal that I found (and FYI, the jeans look and feel fantastic).


And on that note, my folks are calling my name for pie and to light the Menorah (in my wonderful multi-cultural home we are loving our Thankschristmukkah celebration while we are together) and dig into some pumpkin pie now that I've started to digest the T-day feast. Good luck shopping tomorrow, be sure to share any deals you find in the comments below!


UPDATES AS PROMISED:
A few more sales I've come across through the day:

Jack Spade: Up to 75% Off - These guys make some of the best outerwear and bags in the game.
Club Monaco: Extra 30% Off Sale Items + Free Shipping (code THANKS30) - Tons of good finds here, but I've especially had my eye on their sweaters.
Esquire: $5 Subscription Special - Always some good reading material.
Gap: 50% Off Sitewide (code BLKFRIDAY) - Again, lots to choose from, but I usually go for their slim Chinos.
J.Crew: 30% Off Sitewide (code HOLIDAY) - Can't go wrong with the Crew.
J.Crew Factory: 50% Off Sitewide (prices as marked) - if J.Crew itself is a bit rich for your blood.
Original Penguin: 40% Off + Free Shipping (code OPTHANKS40) - OP can be a little hit or miss, style-wise, but when they are on, boy are they on.
Florsheim: 20% Off Sitewide - Some solid shoes, I'm a big fan of their wingtip brogues, and the Gaffney boots look like they'd look great with some dark jeans and a blazer.
Pact: 30% Off Sitewide, up to 60% Off Sale Items, + Free Shipping (prices as marked) -  I love these socks, and my girlfriend does too. I'll definitely be gifting a few pairs of these this year.

Investment Pieces

I'm really happy to finally be at the point in my life where I can start thinking about investment pieces. These are pieces where it is 100% worth it to not bargain hunt your way into a product, to find the cheapest bang for your buck, or go for quantity over quality. Rather, these are pieces where you want to splurge, because you buy ONE, and that one item will never go out of style and never wear down on you.

Now, when I say I'm at the point in my life where I can start thinking about these things, I mean two things. First, I don't necessarily have the money to go out and buy and investment jacket and investment boots and investment yadda yadda yadda right now (this is still Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets), but I do have a little padding with each paycheck that I can put towards saving up for those really worthwhile purchases.

Perhaps even more important, I am confident enough in my personal style as well as my own sartorial education to be able to pick out pieces that I know I will want to wear forever, and will look good forever. After all, it's pretty pointless to shell out for an expensive, durable jacket, only to have it go out of style and out of favor in a year.

I also have to include a small caveat. These are all items that are worth investing in if you have the money to invest in them. For example, later I'll discuss denim as an investment piece, but if you need a pair of dark blue jeans and only have $40 in your budget to cover them, don't freak out, open a line of credit, and go into debt to get that awesome pair of $100 (or $200) jeans. Shop within your means.

OK! All that out of the way, here is the list of investment pieces going onto my wish/save list:

Boots - This is probably first on my list, but largely because I have an almost fetishistic obsession with these Allen Edmond's Dalton boots. They are just so perfect that I can't bring myself to settle for even a temporary inexpensive alternative. Nope, I'm holding out for the real deal, and baby, this is it.

Dalton by Allen Edmonds | $395.00 at Nordstrom

Coat - A good winter coat is an easy choice for the 'investment piece' list. First, the truly classic styles have never gone out of favor. Your pea coats and chesterfields will be as safe as a purchase now as they were ten years ago and will be ten years from now. On top of that, a winter coat is an item where style and functionality are equally important and equally hard to find at lower price points. If you want to stay warm (especially in a city like Chicago), and not look like you're wearing a glorified garbage bag, you're going to have to shell out a few bucks.

Grafton Coat by Rag & Bone | $895

Shoes - Another easy addition to the list. I've done great for a while grabbing some fantastic used shoes off of eBay, but at some point I'd really like to purchase at least two pairs of brand new, high quality dress shoes. Why is brand new important? There is a layer of cork between the insole and actual sole of every shoe (well, to my understanding), and this layer forms to your foot over time, like memory foam, but more permanent. If you buy used, no matter how nice of condition the shoe is, that cork layer is going to be formed to someone else's foot. Why is high quality important? Much like a good coat, a solid pair of shoes from a renowned brand like Allen Edmonds or Alden will never go out of style and will last you a decade.

Limited Edition Alden Cadet Cordovan Bluchers | $657.00 at J. Crew

Jeans - One of the biggest eye openers for me as I learned about menswear was the realization that holy hell people pay $200 for a pair of jeans! Even more importantly, I realized that there's actually a difference between a $200 pair of jeans and one that only costs $50. Again, this comes down to two things: the right $200 pair of jeans will 1) never go out of style; and 2) last forever - are you noticing a theme here?

A.P.C. Petit Standard Slim-Fit Dry Selvedge Denim Jeans | $205 at Mr. Porter

Watch - I've never been a watch guy myself, but even I can tell the difference between a cheap Timex and something of more esteemed quality. Don't get me wrong, a Timex will serve my purposes nine times out of ten, but one day I want to own one nice timepiece that I can bust out on special occasions when I really want to look and feel like a boss.

Burberry Silver Ceramic and Stainless Steel Watch, 42mm | $795.00 at Bloomingdale's

A Bespoke Suit - Notice how I said 'A.' That means one. Sure, someday it'd be killer if I could afford to have all of my suits made custom, but even if I never reach that sort of baller status, I'd like to own at least one fully bespoke suit before I die. As a menswear enthusiast, I can't tell you how many articles I've read reveling in the pure joy, comfort, and confidence that comes from having a suit of the finest fabrics cut and sewn for you alone, and that's a feeling I want. Now, due to the nature of 'bespoke,' I obviously can't pick out an online example for you, but you can imagine it...I'm thinking a warm brown, in a wool-cashmere blend, peak lapels, brown nut buttons...ah I could go on and on...

I'm sure there's more to this list, and hopefully I continue to improve my socio-economic status throughout my life and in turn get to add more items to this list, but right now, these are the things I'm ready to save and splurge on.

What's on your list? Any overlaps with my list? Anything you'd add or remove? Share in the comments!

A 'Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets' Fall Preview

I know I just wrote last week that there is still plenty of summer left, but one of my favorite things about men's style and fashion is getting to enjoy todays trends while already looking forward to tomorrow's. That in mind, here is a quick preview of the things I'm looking forward to that will come with the cooler weather.

Cardigans:

I love sweaters in general, but I'm especially particular to cardigans, and they are one of my favorite layering pieces. I love the way that a cardigan transcends the casual/formal border. For example, throw one on buttoned up under a blazer, and you have a dressed-down three-piece. Wear one loose over a tee and you have a bit classier of a sweatshirt jacket. I've been meaning to try out the brand Scotch and Soda, and I've got my eye on their dark-red cardigan to mix things up in my sea of greys and blues:

Shawl Collars:

This kind of goes along with cardigans and sweaters, but I can't wait to get back to my addiction to shawl collars. Can't really tell you what I love so much about them...but I think it has something to with the smooth line that the roll of the shawl makes, adding heft to a sweater without making it bulky or cumbersome. J. Crew offers a shawl neck pullover with a nautical stripe pattern, which would fulfill another of my latest obsessions:

Tweed:

I've honestly been putting off buying another summer blazer in anticipation of getting to invest in some great tweed options. Tweed has been one of my favorite fabrics since before I even knew anything about style, which goes to show how great it looks, even to the untrained eye. On top of that, I don't think tweed has ever gone out of style, nor will it. If I go custom (which I will, if I can afford it), this brown number from Indochino is high on my list:

Heavy Denim:

One of the sartorial leaps I have yet to take is getting into high quality denim. As the plethora of denim-heads out there will tell you, there's a world of a difference between a pair of $50 Levi's from Macy's and a pair of selvage jeans constructed from heavy, raw Japanese twill.  Summer was definitely not the time to try these out, but come fall I'm definitely picking up a pair that I'm sure will quickly become my go-to non-business pants. Gustin makes some great-looking, affordable selvage jeans, and just announced that they will be regularly stocking their Japan Classic line (most weaves are limited releases):

Boots:

This one is a big IF in my book, mainly dependent on IF I can ever afford them. I tout thrifted and eBay'ed shoes left and right, but at some point you gotta invest in a pair of high quality, new shoes that will form to your feet and be an investment that will pay off for years. I fully plan on making my first pair some wingtip brogue boots (especially appropriate for dealing with Chicago winters here in the windy city). I've heard nothing but great things about Allen Edmonds' Dalton boot, and would give an arm and a leg for my own pair:

And to top it all off, and bring a lot of these together, Layering. The highlight of pretty much any menswear enthusiasts year, the options that come with colder weather are like a friggin playground. I honestly get giddy just thinking about it...blazers on vests on sweaters on shirts, wool on cashmere on denim, contrasts and compliments, the options are really endless. After trying to pare everything down as much as possible during the sweltering heat of the summer, finally getting to layer again is a pleasure. 

For Those Of Us Who Aren't Denim-Heads...

Over the past few years there has been a growing craze for high-quality denim in the menswear world. Gone are the days of the 90's dad-jeans, and jeans are no longer relegated to casual-only settings. These days, denim works just as well with a blazer as it does a ratty T-shirt, and it's not out of the norm to be dropping up to $200 a pair.

Now, for those of us who aren't denim-heads (see how I used the title there?), there are a lot of terms thrown around that you're probably very used to hearing but don't know exactly what they mean, the most common of these being 'selvage' or 'selvedge' denim. Personally, this is one of those terms that I looked up a few times way back when I started to develop my own style, but when my girlfriend asked me the other day what it meant, I realized I had a really hard time explaining it, so this post is as much for my own good as it is any of yours.

Selvage (or selvedge in the UK) is actually short for 'self-edge,' and can refer to really any type of fabric, but most often you will hear it in reference to denim. It describes a specific method of finishing the edges of a woven fabric. In an earlier post on chambray fabric, I explained the difference between 'warp' and 'weft' threads. With selvage denim, the 'self-edge' runs vertically (parallel to the warp), and is created by the weft threads being looped back at the end of each row. The result is an edge that, unlike a cut and hemmed edge, won't fray or unravel. My understanding is that this method tends to be more expensive because the size of each piece of denim is determined during the weaving process, as the edges are woven in, where standard edges are merely cut and hemmed and can therefore really be implemented anywhere on the cloth.

Gustin's #48 Selvage Denim

Ok, quick disclaimer: nobody chew my head off if I'm a little off-base here. I'm not a seamster (yep, drawing a blank on the masculine term for seamstress, so I'm making up my own word), and like I said before, I'm not a denim-head, so this is all based off some quick research and my own rudimentary understanding. That said, this information goes quite a ways in explaining both the appeal of selvage denim and the more costly nature of the fabric.

As I mentioned, these days selvage denim of a decent quality (we recommend staying away from most low-end options like JCP selvage, based off relatively unfavorable feedback across the boards), but some lower-cost options are out there that are worth your hard-earned dollars but won't leave you penniless at the end of the day. The one brand that we've been hearing great things about is the up-and-coming Gustin denim out of San Francisco. Launched via a very successful Kickstarter campaign and still run based off a crowd-sourcing model, Gustin is yet another brand kicking out all those middle-men and designing, manufacturing, and retailing all of their own apparel. This allows them to offer high quality denim in a constantly-changing variety of weights and washes for a low standard price of only $81. I personally haven't gotten to try a pair yet, mainly because I have a pair of dark blue jeans that I love and another pair isn't top priority on my summer shopping-list, but the general reaction has been only positive and the price can't be beat. I definitely plan on snagging a pair when my budget is better aligned to do so, and will for-sure give you folks a detailed review when I do.

On that note, sorry to not be giving you a 'memorial day cook-out' post or something along those lines, but it was only 45 degrees in Chicago when I left my apartment this morning, so I'm really not in the mood. Deal with it. 

Summer Wishlist

I didn't really start dressing well until the cooler months last year, and as a result, I'm suddenly finding myself overwhelmingly unprepared to keep up the level of dapper in these warmer months. I've been working overtime to remedy the situation, and here is what I have left on my list to round out my wardrobe:

Lightweight blazer:

I already got a cotton/linen blend, unlined blazer from Uniqlo in dark blue/navy, but I'm hoping to add one more summer-weight blazer in a lighter color. I'm considering another from Uniqlo, probably this one in a red cotton/linen blend:

Uniqlo

as I was very happy with the one I just bought (review forthcoming), but am also considering this tan option from H&M:

H&M

Normally I stay away from H&M due to previous quality-of-construction issues I've had with their clothing, but I've heard good things about this blazer (for the price), and I'm digging the ticket pocket. Unfortunately, it is fully lined, which seems counter-intuitive for a lightweight jacket, so I guess I'll have to stop in and check it out.


Swim Shorts:

No joke, I haven't bought a pair of swim shorts since high school. Therefore I only own two very 'cool-at-the-time', past my knees, big-Hawaiian-floral-printed pairs of board shorts. It's definitely time for some man shorts to wear to the beach (if you can call it that) here in Chicago. What I really want is this pair in seersucker from J. Crew:

J. Crew Factory

but alas, they don't have my size, so I'm on the lookout for something similar.


Boat Shoes:

For a while I was struggling to find any summer-appropriate shoes. Recently, this purchase off of eBay covered my 'colored suede wingtips' bases, but I'm still on the hunt for some good boat shoes. My biggest problem so far is that I do most of my shopping online, and honestly, I think all boat shoes look crappy in product photos. The soles look clunky, the laces either weirdly long or weirdly short, etc. etc. However, when I see these bad boys in person (just took a browsing trip to DSW today), they all look damn fine. So, as soon as I can belly up to a straight up $75-$85 (depending on where you buy em') purchase in one fell swoop, I'm grabbing this pair of Sperry Top-siders for those more casual and/or nautical sock-less days:

Sperry Top-Sider

Light Wash Jeans:

Dark jeans are fan-fuckin-tastic pretty much year round, making that smooth move from casual to dressy without breaking a sweat. However, I've started breaking a sweat wearing mine, so I'm searching for some more lightweight denim. While I'm at it, I'm going to shake things up a bit and get something with a lighter wash as well to better embrace the bright sunshiny-ness of spring that I miss all Chicago-Winter long. Right now I got my eye on these cotton-linen blend jeans from Uniqlo:

Uniqlo

but I just wish I could visit a store in person to take advantage of the on-site, complimentary hemming. I've tried a few pairs of Levi's out, but haven't found the wash or weight that floats my boat. You know, that boat I'm wearing my boat shoes on.

Prescription Shades:

Cuz I'm blind as a goddamn bat. And I'm dainty and sensitive to the sun. Haha no, in all seriousness though, having a good pair of sunglasses is key during those summer months when you're trying to soak in as much sunshine as possible. I used to wear contacts and would just throw on a pair of knockoffs, but I've switched back to glasses in the past year and am going to have to pony up for a pair of prescription shades. I've been loving pretty much everything coming out of Warby Parker, and for $150 (prescription included), the price can't be beat (plus, fingers crossed, hopefully my insurance will cover them). Personally, I have my eye on the Jasper:

Warby Parker

 or the Winston:

Warby Parker

but there are a bunch that I'd rock any day.

Shorts

I only have two solid pairs of shorts in my wardrobe, and honestly, that's almost enough. Monday through Friday I'm pretty much limited to pants by the dress code at my day job. I have one pair in khaki, and one in grey chambray (super comfortable, by the way), both 9"-10" inseams. However, I'd love to have a few more pairs of chino shorts to let me show a little variety on those days off. I'm keeping my eye open at the J. Crew Factory website, since they have some damn good sales, but I'll be happy with a pair from Gap, Frank and Oak, and a small variety of other brands as long as they come in the right fit and at the right price. Right now, my ideal would be a pair in dark blue:

Gap

 and a pastel pair in oxford cloth:

J. Crew Factory

Linen Shirt

Another problem of mine: it gets hot as all get-out in Chicago in summer. However, I do prefer to wear a tie every weekday, especially at work. More unfortunately, I'm not a fan of the short-sleeves and tie look (this is widely debated across style blogs, so make your own decision). That said, my best option for staying cool on summer workdays is probably a nice, linen dress shirt. The biggest challenge I'm facing is finding a shirt that is reasonably priced but also comes in a slim fit. Most moderately priced linen shirts are much more casual and are designed for a loose, beach-y look. By the time you get up to dress shirt stylings, the prices are usually pretty damn high. Frank and Oak has a linen shirt that I'm going to give a try:

Frank & Oak

but if all else fails I'll snag one for cheap from Uniqlo and get it tailored (I checked their fabrics and I'd say it's tie-appropriate with a cotton or knit tie).

Cotton Ties

While winter weather calls for more substantial fabrics like thick silk or wool for your neckwear, summer similarly calls for it's own weather appropriate ties. I'm looking for options in cotton and linen, as well as some light-color, solid knit ties. I've already stocked up my closet at Tie Society, but for my permanent additions, I'm turning, as usual, to the The Tie Bar. I especially have my eye on this knit tie in coral: 

The Tie Bar

Or this one in cotton seersucker:

The Tie Bar

Uniqlo also has some great options for linen ties clocking it at $12.90, which is a steal. Most are in plaid/madras, and I'm a fan of this one:

Also, here is a short list of some other recent purchases for the summer:

Light (almost white) Chino's in Stone from J. Crew
Light Blue/Slate Chino's from Gap
No-show loafer socks from Nordstrom Rack
Short-sleeve casual button-up (needs tailored) from American Eagle
Mint OCBD from Frank & Oak