Tying the Knot(s)

As promised, I’m going to keep delving into the wonderful world of the necktie. I’ve written about tie knots before, but this post goes into more detail on all the knots that are available and when to use them. Tie-A-Tie.net covers all the instructional bases much better than I’d be able to, so I will refrain from trying to repeat the innumerable tutorials that are already out there, and this post will be less of a ‘how-to and more of a ‘how to do it right.’

First it’s important to understand that there are certain times to use or not to use each of these knots, no single one can serve as a go-to in every situation. The biggest factor in determining which knots you can use is going to be the style of the collar of your shirt. In this area, proportion is your biggest measuring tool. Spread collars leave a lot of room between the collar points in which you can easily fit a double-windsor, while a traditional point collar will swallow a wide knot and is more appropriately paired with a four-in-hand knot. There are a few other factors as well, but for the most part they come down to personal taste.

So what are your options?

The first (and most versatile) knot you should know is the Four-In-Hand. I know I said there is no ‘go-to’ knot, but this one comes close. This knot is on the smaller side and markedly asymmetric. With the growing trend in menswear to try to look dapper without being over-polished, stylish without looking too damn perfectly put together, this knot is a great way to tavoid that ‘perfect-triangle,’ Dorito-lookin tie knot that can make you look like you just rolled off a factory line of Donald Trumps, cheesy politicians and used car salesmen. The small nature of this knot makes it perfect for point-collar shirts and button-down collars. It also is one of the few knots that looks naturally proportional with a skinnier tie. Like I said, I’m a big fan of this one and use it almost every day. The biggest trouble I run into with this knot is that it doesn’t take up much of the tie length, and I am often left with a too-long-tie. The quick solution to this is to throw in one more loop and turn the knot into a Double Four-In Hand, a knot used extensively by some of the more fashion-forward Italian gentlemen, and one I have become a huge fan of lately. It adds some nice heft to lighter ties (such as cotton, linen, or thin twill), and comes out with a really nice looking knot that just hints at luxury. See below:

The next knot I would say you should know is the Double Windsor, more because it is a classic staple that a lot of other knots are based off of than because of any recommendation of mine to actually wear the thing. This is where you get that big triangle Dorito look I always complain about. However, the Double Windsor does have it’s place, mainly among power suits and super-spread collars. It’s a very in-your-face knot, often associated with Wall Street boys and Hollywood Agents (I think Ari of Entourage fame always wore a nice, big Double Windsor). Don’t even try this knot with a point collar, as either the shirt will swallow the knot, or the knot will push at your collar in a most unseemly way (see, somehow even writing about the Double Windsor makes me a little pompous, I apologize). I also apologize that this isn’t the greatest looking knot in the picture, but I rarely use this knot, so I’m not a pro. Deal with it:

My suggestion, if you want something with a bit more heft and formality than the Four-In Hand, would be to go for a Half-Windsor or a Shelby/Pratt knot. Both of these knots essentially take out a loop of the Double Windsor, simultaneously making it a bit smaller and more approachable while adding a touch of asymmetry to keep it interesting. These two (in my opinion) are pretty interchangable, but I’ve found the Half Windsor to work better with wider ties while the Shelby/Pratt gives you a nice wide knot on a skinny tie without looking silly. The Shelby/Pratt is my go-to when wearing a spread collar, as most of my ties are on the skinnier end. It’s also a slightly more formal knot, so I tend to wear it when I am dressing up for a special occaision. It can be a bit tricky at first, because it’s one of the few knots that requires you to start with your tie essentially ‘inside-out,’ but you get the hang of it after a few tries. Here is the Shelby:

And the Half Windsor:

After these four options, there are literally countless variations, many of which I can’t even tell the difference between, but these are the four basics that most other knots are derived from. Sit in front of a mirror and practice these until they are ingrained in your memory and you will be prepared for pretty much any occasion that calls for neckwear. And please, by all means, avoid those goddamn novelty knots.

To Be, Or Knot To Be (or something less pretentious)

This is going to be my first semi-serious fashion related post on this blog. Recently, even over just the past week, I haven’t been able to escape the novelty tie knot. This includes (but is not limited to) the Merovingian knot (illustrated here by MensWearStyle), the Eldridge knot (illustrated here by AgreeOrDie) and the Trinity knot (illustrated here by BlackLapel). I feel that in order to be completely truthful in these blogs, I have to say that these all just make me gag a little. Here is my reasoning:

1) One of the things I love most about menswear is the resistance to trends and fads, and the ability to stand out and be noticeable without resorting to novelty tricks. Timelessness, elegance, class, these are all things I associate with quality menswear, and my goal is for my attire to reflect these attributes. The reaction I look for when I dress isn’t, “holy hell! What is that on your neck?” or, “that is CRAZY.”

2) I read somewhere once, and fully agree, that a tie should literally and figuratively tie together an outfit. It shouldn’t be the centerpiece. I have a few bright or patterned ties, but I am always careful to make sure they accentuate other parts of my outfit, rather than sticking out like a sore thumb. I think these big, in-your-face novelty knots can be jarring when you look at an outfit in its entirety (especially when paired with sleek and classic outfit, like a white dress shirt or a simple suit).

3) The last is more personal preference. I prefer my knots to be a little more casual, less symmetrical, and I strive to avoid the big “Dorito” triangle in any of my knots. This usually just means I don’t tie a Windsor very often, but these knots go above and beyond the Windsor in terms of (if you ask me) clunky, conformed shape, which (once again, if you ask me), takes away all the subtle, sexy class that neckwear brings to an outfit.

Honestly, I pretty much only ever use two knots, and have not really been too tempted to branch out. I’m a skinny guy on the shorter side of average height and I wear fitted shirts and skinny ties. I also rarely go full suit, and am, if anything, overdressed at my job. This has led me to the 4-in-hand as my go-to knot. The lack of symmetry makes it a bit more casual of a knot, which helps me dress down a bit to fit the office atmosphere. Additionally, it is a small knot, which looks more appropriate both when using a skinny tie and on my frame in general.

When the occasion calls for something a little more formal or substantial (spread-collar shirt), I go for the Shelby/Pratt knot. This may seem a little unorthodox, but I have very simple reasoning. Most people in these situations reach for a Windsor, or maybe a Half-Windsor. I prefer the Pratt once again as a slightly smaller knot. My take on the Pratt is that it is basically a Windsor-styled knot that they make a half-wrap skinnier by essentially starting with the tie inside-out (give it a try and see what I mean). This gives me a knot with a solid structure that doesn’t take over my neck. It’s also a little shorter of a knot which helps steer away from the ‘Dorito’ problem.

Essentially, find a knot that works for you, and stick with it. Leave the crazy knots to the boy scouts (har har har, I know) and find other ways to stand out, or just stand out by looking good among all those schlubs out there!

For good directions on how to tie any of these knots, my friends at Tie Society have an ongoing series of instructional videos, and you can find step-by-step drawings all over the web. Practice makes perfect! To see some of my knots (not that they are anything special), check out my instagram at @WideEyesTWBlog. I try to participate in Frank and Oak’s #NecktieFriday competition every week, and most of my submissions are on instagram.