Tying the Knot(s)

As promised, I’m going to keep delving into the wonderful world of the necktie. I’ve written about tie knots before, but this post goes into more detail on all the knots that are available and when to use them. Tie-A-Tie.net covers all the instructional bases much better than I’d be able to, so I will refrain from trying to repeat the innumerable tutorials that are already out there, and this post will be less of a ‘how-to and more of a ‘how to do it right.’

First it’s important to understand that there are certain times to use or not to use each of these knots, no single one can serve as a go-to in every situation. The biggest factor in determining which knots you can use is going to be the style of the collar of your shirt. In this area, proportion is your biggest measuring tool. Spread collars leave a lot of room between the collar points in which you can easily fit a double-windsor, while a traditional point collar will swallow a wide knot and is more appropriately paired with a four-in-hand knot. There are a few other factors as well, but for the most part they come down to personal taste.

So what are your options?

The first (and most versatile) knot you should know is the Four-In-Hand. I know I said there is no ‘go-to’ knot, but this one comes close. This knot is on the smaller side and markedly asymmetric. With the growing trend in menswear to try to look dapper without being over-polished, stylish without looking too damn perfectly put together, this knot is a great way to tavoid that ‘perfect-triangle,’ Dorito-lookin tie knot that can make you look like you just rolled off a factory line of Donald Trumps, cheesy politicians and used car salesmen. The small nature of this knot makes it perfect for point-collar shirts and button-down collars. It also is one of the few knots that looks naturally proportional with a skinnier tie. Like I said, I’m a big fan of this one and use it almost every day. The biggest trouble I run into with this knot is that it doesn’t take up much of the tie length, and I am often left with a too-long-tie. The quick solution to this is to throw in one more loop and turn the knot into a Double Four-In Hand, a knot used extensively by some of the more fashion-forward Italian gentlemen, and one I have become a huge fan of lately. It adds some nice heft to lighter ties (such as cotton, linen, or thin twill), and comes out with a really nice looking knot that just hints at luxury. See below:

The next knot I would say you should know is the Double Windsor, more because it is a classic staple that a lot of other knots are based off of than because of any recommendation of mine to actually wear the thing. This is where you get that big triangle Dorito look I always complain about. However, the Double Windsor does have it’s place, mainly among power suits and super-spread collars. It’s a very in-your-face knot, often associated with Wall Street boys and Hollywood Agents (I think Ari of Entourage fame always wore a nice, big Double Windsor). Don’t even try this knot with a point collar, as either the shirt will swallow the knot, or the knot will push at your collar in a most unseemly way (see, somehow even writing about the Double Windsor makes me a little pompous, I apologize). I also apologize that this isn’t the greatest looking knot in the picture, but I rarely use this knot, so I’m not a pro. Deal with it:

My suggestion, if you want something with a bit more heft and formality than the Four-In Hand, would be to go for a Half-Windsor or a Shelby/Pratt knot. Both of these knots essentially take out a loop of the Double Windsor, simultaneously making it a bit smaller and more approachable while adding a touch of asymmetry to keep it interesting. These two (in my opinion) are pretty interchangable, but I’ve found the Half Windsor to work better with wider ties while the Shelby/Pratt gives you a nice wide knot on a skinny tie without looking silly. The Shelby/Pratt is my go-to when wearing a spread collar, as most of my ties are on the skinnier end. It’s also a slightly more formal knot, so I tend to wear it when I am dressing up for a special occaision. It can be a bit tricky at first, because it’s one of the few knots that requires you to start with your tie essentially ‘inside-out,’ but you get the hang of it after a few tries. Here is the Shelby:

And the Half Windsor:

After these four options, there are literally countless variations, many of which I can’t even tell the difference between, but these are the four basics that most other knots are derived from. Sit in front of a mirror and practice these until they are ingrained in your memory and you will be prepared for pretty much any occasion that calls for neckwear. And please, by all means, avoid those goddamn novelty knots.

What Might Have Been...

In case you hadn’t noticed, I’m keeping posts short and sweet until I get my camera (scheduled to arrive Monday!) at which point I will return to full-length ‘feature’ posts, but now with pictures! They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and sometimes I don’t even write that many, so it’s bound to be an improvement.

However, I won’t leave you with nothing at all, since I know so many of you depend on my daily posts like it’s a matter of life or death (if you were wondering, that was sarcasm).

This is the first of a few posts I will share regarding my process in naming ‘Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets.’ The name is really growing on me, but it wasn’t my first choice, for a variety of reasons.

In fact, my first choice was ‘Tie One On’ and I REALLY still wish I could use that name, but, alas, it was already taken (all the good ideas are, right? Well, for my sake, I hope not…). First off, it’s a pun, that involves drinking, and ties, which are two of my favorite things in life. More seriously, I think taking the leap to wearing a tie on a day to day basis is when I really turned the page in my sartorial story (there I go, being pretentious again, coincidentally another part of my naming process). It’s not that all of the sudden I was the most stylish man around, but that’s when I really started caring about how I looked and started to enjoy looking good. I had taken some brief forays into the stylish world of menswear before then with a few good pieces like a pair Chukka boots or some nice-lookin’ (but cheap) brogues, but when I started wearing ties (and loving it), my whole sense of style took a drastic turn.

On top of that, once you start wearing a tie you open up so many sartorial options, it’s enough to make a style-blogger giddier than a schoolgirl at Christmas. From the numerous knots to different fabrics to tie bars to texture matching, the opportunities are endless.

With that in mind, I will be following this up with many, MANY posts illustrating all the above, reviewing tie manufacturers/retailers (hello TheTieBar.com) and more (once again, after I get my camera). Get ready to get yo’ knot on! Also, coincidentally, it’s #NeckTieFriday over at Frank and Oak, let’s see those submissions! If you’re posting something you’re proud of, tag me or send it my way, I love to see what everyone comes up with. Here is my submission this week:

Fashion Faux Pas - The New Series

To start a new, ongoing series of blurb-ish posts (I hope I, nor any of you, are ever called blurb-ish, but I’m a fan of the word), here is my ‘fashion faux pas’ of the day (avoid these, and you’ll be a step in the right direction):

Ties at the wrong lengths: What bugs me about this one is it’s very easy to know where your tie should end, and it’s very easy to fix it if you get it wrong the first time.

The tie should end right at your beltline (while standing). There are few ways to determine this (have the widest point hit the top of your belt, have the point at the end hit the middle of the belt, etc.) that all accomplish basically the same thing. Obviously this is more of an issue if you aren’t wearing a jacket or a sweater or a vest (durr), but it’s a good habit to get into.

Having problems? If your tie is too long or too short, the first obvious fix is to re-tie and adjust. I read a tip to measure the length of tie taken up tying each kind of know (Windsor vs. Four-in-hand, etc.), and use that to guage where to start tying. Honestly, I tend to just untie/adjust/re-tie until I get it right.

Your tie being too short is never a big problem. Merely leave the back, unseen end of the tie much shorter. You shouldn’t really ever see this end, so you can make it as short as you have to as long as it still knots.

If you have an exceptionally long tie, try experimenting with different knots (for example, the Windsor knot itself takes up much more tie length than the Four-in-hand), or take something simple like the Four-in-hand and incorporate an extra loop.

There’s always something to try, which means there is never an excuse to commit this faux pas. More importantly, this is something that will never change, so get used to doing it right!