MTailor Made-To-Measure Shirting Reviewed

Howdy folks! After a brief hiatus, we've taken advantage of some down-time from the daily grind to finally get this piece ready to publish. MTailor is one of the newer made-to-measure brands to hit the scene, and co-founder Miles got in touch with way back before I moved from Chicago to NYC to set us up for an in-person review. Here we go:

The Brand: As usual, we asked the brand to provide us with a little background. From Miles:

"At MTailor, we are bringing professional quality custom shirts into the modern era. We make it easy, convenient and fast while maintaining an amazing fit and quality shirts.

To do that, we measure you with your phone's camera using the latest in machine learning algorithms. We're 20% more accurate than a professional tailor. There's no tape measure involved (no need for a second person or second guessing yourself on all the measurements), and you're done in less than 5 minutes.

While we officially launched June 28, we've been working on MTailor since September 2012. Right now, we're just 2 people: Miles and Rafi. We spent over a year developing the core technology to make the measurement process easy and accurate. We then spent months testing over a dozen suppliers and shipping lots of beta shirts to customers, and we only launched once we and our customers were satisfied.

We really stand behind our shirts: if you dislike an MTailor shirt for any reason (not just fit), we'll remake it for free or issue a full refund, no questions asked."

The Ordering Process: This is probably the coolest feature of MTailor - or at least the feature with the highest coolness potential. Where other made-to-measure services require you to either measure yourself or a shirt you already own, MTailor uses a cellphone app to digitally scan your body type, requiring no actual measuring at all. Pretty damn snazzy, right? And the feature is really cool - it takes a few minutes to set up, and took me a few tries until I got myself framed properly in the camera (the process involves propping your phone to fit the image of your body inside an on-screen frame), but it was painless and actually kinda fun.

Now, all that said, there are a few things I wish were a little different - the largest of which being that MTailor is only available via app. As in, you can't browse the fabrics or customization options on your computer. I'd imagine there's an iPad version as well, which would be better, but as I just have an iPhone, I was limited to selecting a fabric off of my small phone screen. Not the worst thing in the world, but it would have been great to be able to check out some larger pictures. I'd also love to see a wider range of casual fabrics, although there is something to be said for simplicity as well!

To that point, I actually enjoyed the more limited variety of customizations that were offered - seemed to cover all the bases without overwhelming you with a million choices. In the end, I ended up choosing a dressier fabric in a blue and brown small-scale tattersall, with a widespread collar, one button cuff, the longer 'tucked' cut, and a slim fit. Though MTailor was kind enough to provide the shirt free of charge for this review, the final price would have been just $69 (their base rate), which is really quite reasonable (and affordable).

The Fabric and Construction: Starting off on a very good note, the fabric and construction are pretty entirely beyond reproach. As a matter of fact, I'd consider this one of the best fabrics I've gotten for a made-to-measure shirt. Even my Thomas Mason fabrics have come just a bit stiff and...shiny - but this shirt feels far softer and just more natural, as I'd expect a 'luxury fabric' to feel. The weight is perfect for a relatively year-round shirt. It's not flimsy by any means, but not a heavy robust flannel either.

As for construction, the bases are all hit - smooth stitching, clean button-holes, sturdy and well-attached buttons, removable collar stays and stitched (as opposed to fused) collar and cuffs.

The Fit: To be perfectly honest, when it came to fit, I was a bit disappointed when I first received the shirt. The MTailor app lauds itself as 20% more accurate than a professional tailor, and with promises like that, I expected a darn-close-to-perfect shirt on the first try. Things weren't horrible, by any means, but just not quite up to snuff. Thankfully, MTailor offers a complementary remake of your first shirt in order to nail your pattern.  This is pretty common with MTM shirtmakers, and I've actually come to kind of expect to have to tweak things throughout the first order - and for any other company, I wouldn't have been as upset. It's just that those promises made by the high-tech scanning system were so...promising! Ah well, not the end of the world, but just know their model has some kinks to be worked out.

Anyway, back to the specifics. Mainly, the cut was just a bit big throughout, with slightly long sleeves, and too low of armholes.

Just a bit too big throughout, and some funky draping.

The sleeves in particular were long and baggy.

Low armholes definitely contributed to the draping and general fit being off.

Now that we were past using the digital scanning, I decided to compare the shirt with another custom shirt of my own in order to give Miles the most precise directions for adjustments.

After sending him some measurements and talking things over, we settled on the following changes for the second time around:

• Shoulders: -.5 inches
• Sleeves: -.5 inches (-.75 inches net with shoulders)
• Chest: -2 inches for full circumference (-1 inch when flat)
• Waist: -2 inches for full circumference (-1 inch when flat)
• Hips: -2 inches for full circumference (-1 inch when flat)
• Biceps: -2.25 inches for full circumference
• "We have edited how we calculate biceps and this is the new measurement we would make you. The shirt we sent you must have been way too big in the biceps! Shrinking this will tighten the armholes and the forearms."

The Fit (Part 2): And here's the good news, fit-wise! After a remake, the shirt fits almost perfectly. Nice and trim through the body and waist, sleeves falling at just the right length, and a comfortably snug collar and cuffs. Boom. 

Much trimmer, an a far better drape.

Sleeves hit right at the wrist without excess pooling fabric.

My only complaint is that the armholes are still just the slightest bit restricting - minor enough that I wouldn't complain for an OTR shirt, but a bit too noticeable for a custom shirt. Really, you can't even notice it with my hands at my sides - just when I raise my arms, the fabric pulls from the armpit across the chest.

Still some slight tightness across the chest.

The Customer Service: Gotta say, I was pretty blown away by just how attentive Miles was throughout the ordering process. I'm usually all over shipping tracking myself, but he saw that the shirt was scheduled to be delivered before I did, and shot me an e-mail to make sure delivery went smoothly. When my post office mixed things up, he stayed right on top of everything until the package was in my hands. Even more importantly, he seemed eager to hear my impressions and feedback, and legitimately interested in leaving me with a great shirt, rather than just making another buck. Two thumbs, way up. Beyond that, processing and shipping came in at just under 3 weeks (not exceptionally short, but also not exceptionally long), and all communication was quickly and promptly responded to by either a customer service agent, or more often Miles himself.

In Conclusion: All around, I'd say MTailor is definitely worth a try. The ordering process is admittedly cool, and if they can continue to work out kinks in their digital-fitting model, it could end up being one of the more convenient options available. Past ordering, the customer service and product quality leave these guys right up with some of the best shirts that I've had, and all with a price point that isn't too painful.

This was a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were provided to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by MTailor. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself.

Bean Boots - A Ringing Endorsement

I had the great pleasure of heading to friend's very remote (but very comfortably furnished) cabin in the Poconos in PA. I grew up camping all the time, but haven't really gotten away from city life for years, so I wildly enjoyed being out in nature. Admittedly, we spent most of our time hanging around the cabin, playing with the dogs and drinking, but my girlfriend and I did get away for a few walks in the woods. When I took the pup along the stream and let him play in the water, I remembered just how damn much I love my L.L. Bean Boots, hence this enthusiastic endorsement and post:

So what's so great about Bean boots? Sure, I personally love the style that just oozes classic North-Eastern prep, but it really just comes down to how indestructible they are.

I love rocking nice shoes - Allen Edmond's brogues, suede Ralph Lauren boots, sharp leather sneakers, the like. But I'm always so worried that I'm going to scrape or scuff them, or ruin the suede when it unexpectedly rains, or that I'm even just going to come home with cold, wet feet.

With Bean boots, I just walk through whatever is in front of me, not a care in the world. They are waterproof to an extreme, even up through the leather upper. They are tough as nails and hold up against pretty much any hazard you'll encounter, in the woods or the city. And still, comfortable, relatively lightweight, and better and better as they age.

Anyway, I'm 100% sure my afternoon wouldn't have been nearly as enjoyable without these bad boys on my feet, so here's a ringing endorsement for all things Bean boots (they have a number of variations, all pretty equally awesome) from Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets.

A Few Logistical Notes:
As mentioned above, there are several variations available. I personally have the 6 inch, unlined option:

Men's 6" Bean Boots | L.L. Bean - $99.00

While insulated boots (like these, or even these) will be warmer through the winter, I've found that the right socks make mine just as warm, and I can still wear them through the rest of the year in wet conditions. You can opt for a different height as well, but just know that taller boots will be harder/more time consuming to put on. Last, these run pretty damn large - I took a full size down and can still fit them with pretty heavy socks, but they aren't falling off when I wear something thinner when it's not so cold. At the very least, read the sizing guidelines carefully. And don't be afraid to take advantage of their free shipping to find the perfect fit!

Word. Notebooks - An Endorsement

Word. Notebooks, an offshoot of Cool Material, sent us an e-mail this week to promote their newest batch of notebook cover designs (pictured above). I'm a huge fan of Cool Material, and have even put together a 'Wear This' post for them a few months back. Even more-so, I am a Word. Notebook addict. Seriously, I can't live without them. I forgot mine at home today, and I was undoubtedly an unproductive mess.

Anyway, since I love them so much, I wanted to take the opportunity to give an official, whole-hearted endorsement of the notebooks and their simple, but incredibly useful built in to-do list system. At first glance, it's just your standard small notebook, but the inclusion of a bullet system provides a perfect visual reference that let's you quickly assess everything you have on your plate. From their website:

"Simply fill in the bullet point when writing an item on that line. Trace the circle around it when it’s important and add a slash when you’ve started work on it. Once the task is complete, simply mark down an “X” and move on to the next item on your list."

The handy 'Use Guide' included inside each book.

I've discussed the importance of setting yourself a list of goals, but always in the long term. However, as you work towards those bigger aspirations, you still need to keep your daily grind...well...grinding. Quickly. Effectively. Efficiently. 

Word. Notebooks help you do just that - small enough to fit into a pocked or tuck into a pouch in you bag or briefcase, these little books can follow you everywhere, and become the perfect constant reminder of what you have on deck, and a reference point for keeping yourself productive. 

Personally, I keep an ongoing, long-running list that never really ends. An alternative is to build a new list for each day, and don't go to sleep until you see X's the whole way down the page. Whatever your method, if you put these to good use, you're sure to see both your productivity and reliability improve greatly, which can't be bad!

My current, well-worn notebook.

Pick up a 3-pack at the Cool Material Store or directly from the Word. Notebook website for just $10. They've also got a few other cool products, like the Standard Memorandum notebook (not currently available, but hopefully returning someday), and some classy leather notebook covers. All very cool...

On a quick, unrelated note, I'm traveling again this weekend! Hopefully I'll have time to get a 'Deals and Steals' post up before I leave, but if not, I'll be back behind the wheel early next week.

Proper Cloth Made-To-Measure Shirting Reviewed

The Brand:

As per the usual, I'm going to let Proper Cloth do the talking here, rather than just regurgitating their history back at you. From their website:

"The original idea was simple: make it easy for men to buy dress shirts that fit perfectly. 

In October 2008 we launched the first version of propercloth.com and sold our first shirt. We were not an instant success. The first couple years were particularly humble. We didn't come from fashion. We didn't have any contacts. We had a lot to learn. We made a lot of mistakes. We were bootstrapping with credit cards and small loans from friends and family. Our manufacturing was antiquated and slow. Our selection was limited. Our website was confusing. Then there was the financial crisis... 

But we stuck with it. Listened to our customers. Networked in the industry. Solved problems. Improved our systems. Became experts on patterning and construction. Fabric and styling. Photography and user interface. Supply chain and logistics. Our growth has been strong and steady, but we've kept our team relatively small. Five people. Really. Seph, Yura, Brittany, Harrison and Chris. We’re based in New York. We do all of our design and customer service at our space in SOHO. We’re profitable and growing. We’re not in a rush to expand and we won't use near sighted tactics to get results. We're focused on the long term. We're committed to building a lasting brand and business. We have thousands of clients. We love what we do."

The description goes on in more detail, but the takeaway is that they came here to make damn good shirts, that are damn easy to buy, and to build a continually evolving company that understands that style is about more than just clothing. They wrap it up with a line I especially dug:

"The right clothing can help someone realize who they are. Stories are how we understand the world around us. Clothing can help tell those stories. "

For more information regarding the history and values of Proper Cloth, as well as the variety of fabrics, customizations, etc. that they offer, head over to their 'About Us' and read up.

The Order:

I went into great detail about the process of customizing a made-to-measure shirt in this recent post featuring the Proper Cloth website, so I won't re-hash too much of that here, but I will provide the details of my order once more:

Fabric: Thomas Mason Light Pink Oxford
Collar Style: Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuff Style: Soft One Button
Pocket: One Chest Pocket
Placket: Soft Front Placket (although I'm very tempted to try out the popover)
Yoke: Split Yoke
Buttons: Tall Mother of Pearl
Monogram: Back of Collar in Burgundy

I chose a very expensive fabric (mainly because I wanted to feel the difference it made), which clocks in at a starting price of $140, but their standard options - which aren't shabby at all themselves - start at $85 and include both basic fabrics and more on-trend picks like denim and chambray.

A few more notes regarding the ordering process: I have to say that the Proper Cloth website is one of the prettiest MTM systems I've seen - most are clunky and unattractive, but Proper Cloth managed to squeeze a custom ordering system into a sleek and modern website. On top of that, they've provided some great additional resources, especially their 'Reference' page, which includes information like 'How a Dress Shirt Should Fit' and 'Dress Shirt Construction.'

As far as sizing goes, the folks at Proper Cloth suggest I try out their new smart-sizing algorithm. I was a bit hesitant, as I like to use the self-measuring option (just feels more custom that way, and can be a better judge of the quality of customization that you get), but I took their advice and am damn glad I did (I'll expand on this in a moment). The system itself was a breeze, with just a few questions about your body and your preferred fit. After the survey, measurements are generated, and then you are given the opportunity to tweak them as you like. I slimmed down the cuffs, and maybe adjusted a few things by very minimal amounts, but for the most part I decided to test their algorithm, and...

The Fit:

...and hot damn, this shirt fits incredibly. I have had some really good results with other made-to-measure companies, but this shirt is by far the best-fitting in my closet. Shoulders, chest, and body are all spot-on, and I usually expect those to be, even on a first order. 

Seams end right at the shoulder. Minimal excess fabric in the chest.

No billowing at the waist, slim through the torso.

What impressed me most was the perfect fit through the sleeves and cuffs, both in width and length. This has always been an area I struggled with, whether it's OTR shirting or MTM shirting - somehow I always end up with something off just enough for it to bug me. 

Sleeves stay slim through the forearm and bicep, with high armholes.

Length falls perfectly on the hand, and cuff width is appropriate.

I was also impressed with the length. I think some made-to-measure brands cut their shirts overly long to avoid having to re-make something cut short. This doesn't usually bother me, as it's never crazy long, and I usually go tucked anyway. However, it can be a bit of a nuisance on more casual shirts that you may want to wear untucked from time to time. Again, Proper Cloth hit the sweet spot, as this shirt is just long enough to stay tucked when I want it to, but the perfect length to wear untucked as well.

Tucked, un-tucked, the choice is mine.

When it comes down to it, I go into my first MTM experience with any company expecting to have to make at least a few tweaks to my pattern in order to get the perfect fit, but Proper Cloth dialed me in on the first try, and like I said, I'm impressed.

I'll take a minute here, too, to point out that Proper Cloth does offer a perfect fit guarantee, so if the fit hadn't been so great, I could have sent it back for a remake. It sounds like they offer a lot of assistance on this end - if you know exactly what you want changed, you just let them know, but if you just feel its 'off,' you have the option of sending in pictures or even calling and chatting so they can help you find the problem areas. Sounds like good stuff, and I kinda wish I could have given it a test drive, but I can't complain about perfection.

The Construction:

Again, everything here is pretty darn top notch. The stitching is straight and even, and I can't find any loose threads, snags in the fabric, or anything else to mar to finished product. Even the monogram is tastefully done, well centered on the collar, and shaped and stitched cleanly.

Monogram, collar stitching, and minimal branding on tag.

Clean side seam and reinforcing gusset.

Neatly stitched placket and buttonholes.

I'm definitely glad I went with the tall mother-of-pearl buttons. They look so much nicer than plastic, and are thick enough that I'm not worried about them breaking anytime soon.

Sturdy MOP buttons with clean crisscross-stitching.

The collar and cuffs are soft and un-fused, as I specified, and I think lend very well to the slightly-rumpled Ivy prep style. There is enough substance for them to hold shape, but not to look starched or too structured if I'm going sans jacket and tie.

Look at that gorgeous collar roll.

I'm also really loving the way the shape of the collar came out. The roll is very distinct, but it captures that ivy-league, vintage prep style perfectly and is exactly what I had in mind. I do think it makes things a bit more casual than even a standard button-down collar, but that's what I was aiming for when designing the shirt.

And that's really my only beef - and barely beef at that: the fabric is a bit dressier than I anticipated. I knew that Thomas Mason fabric would be higher quality (and should be, at that price), but was still expecting something heavier and rougher, as most oxford cloth tends to be. This fabric, instead, does have a little bit of sheen to it, and is lighter than I expected, but to be honest, these are both probably good things that will only increase the versatility of the shirt.

In all other regards, the fabric is very nice, which you would expect from Thomas Mason. The hand is soft and comfortable, but still holds a press well enough to look sharp of you're dressing it up. It does wrinkle a bit easily at the elbows, but it doesn't hold creases very strongly so all it takes is a quick iron at the end of the day and it's good as new. As I said, the weight is definitely a bit lighter than your standard oxford cloth, but is still thicker than a poplin or broadcloth alternative. Lastly, the pink color works out very well - I'm not opposed to pink at all, but I think the over saturated and bright shades are a bit too much for me. This color is more muted and works very well with the laid-back style, so I'm happy!

The Service:

When it comes to customer service, the entire process was a pleasure. While the fit guarantee is actually pretty common among MTM clothiers, their offers to really help you walk through adjustments seems like a step above and beyond, and one that I like to see. Proper Cloth makes other good moves throughout the order, like thorough e-mail updates as you shirt goes to the factory, gets packaged, and is shipped. The total turnaround was better than average as well, with the shirt arriving only seven days after I placed the order (Proper Cloth quotes a 10-16 day wait on their site, which is already well below most MTM companies). Since I didn't have any issues with the shirt, I can't speak too much for their customer service (and I gotta count that as a point for them), but all correspondence I had with them was prompt and polite, so no complaints here. 

In Conclusion:

When it comes down to it, I'd say that the only real downside to ordering from Proper Cloth is the pricing. They do have much more affordable fabrics to start with, but they lack some of the discount options you can find at brands like Modern Tailor. That said, my biggest complaint with Modern Tailor has been the quality of the fabrics, so this might just be worth it. The resulting fit and the quality of the construction definitely hold up to the expectations that come with a price point like that, so if you think your particular fabric is worth the price, Proper Cloth won't let you down. I even admittedly opted for a higher end cloth as I wanted to see the difference between a Thomas Mason OCBD and a Target OCBD, up close and personal, but could definitely have been happy with something closer to their starting rate of $85. 

To put it most simply:

Pros: Easy Measuring System; Customization Options; Fabric Selection; Turnaround Time; Fit; Quality; Construction; Perfect Fit Guarantee. Not much not to love.

Cons: Price. Really, I can't think of anything else here, and to be perfectly honest, you get what you pay for.

Editors Note: If you are interested in purchasing a shirt from Proper Cloth, use our referral link for a discount on your first order.

So there you have it. Have any of you tried Proper Cloth? What were your thoughts? Anyone with other MTM shirting companies to compare? Chime in using the comments or our social networks.

This was a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were provided to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by Proper Cloth. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself.