Band-Collar Madness - Cuz I Don't Follow Basketball

Holy cow, it really has been a hot minute since I was last able to drop an article up here on the blog. Sorry folks, been busy!

But hey, looking to get back on the grind, at least to some extent - still don't have the free time that I used to, but I miss sharing my menswear obsessions with the world.

Speaking of obsessions, one of my latest has been band collar shirts. They've been around for a while now, but are really starting to pick up steam among mainstream brands, with J.Crew rocking some great chambray options...

Wallace & Barnes Band-Collar Japanese Selvedge Chambray Shirt | J.Crew - $118

...and Bonobos chiming in with a lightweight oxford...

Lightweight Oxford Band Collar Shirt | Bonobos - $78

...and a light blue end-on-end:


That said, my favorite choice is actually...none of them. Ok, kind of a trick answer there. My favorite really is still my own DIY solution.

Last year, I happened to have a white oxford from Trashness that wasn't quite up to snuff. Rather than relegate it the back of my closet, I decided to do some risk-free experimentation and chopped it up - a pair of scissors and 30 seconds of work later, and I had my own hand-made(ish) band-collar shirt.

After rocking it all summer, and then busting it out again as temps started to clear up this spring, I decided it was time to invest in a better-fitting and better-quality version, now that I knew I really liked the style.

Still being a cheap-o, though, I didn't go out and buy one...instead, I just picked a better oxford to chop up into my own version. Thus, my Uniqlo OCBD (at a mere $30), becomes my new favorite band-collar shirt.

Even better? Uniqlo just knocked the price on their OCDB's down by half...now going for just $15.

Oxford Slim Fit Long Sleeve Shirt | Uniqlo - Now just $15

That's cheaper than Target...and while Target OCBD's ain't too shabby themselves, the deal here is damn hard to beat. Go grab a few pairs, and take one or two to the surgical room, see how you like the results. At this rate, I'm bound to have one in every color by the time the sale ends.

I just finished this project at like, midnight last night, but I'll throw up some pictures when I get a chance to take em! And stay tuned, hopefully this marks a return to the blogosphere, and more content to come in the future.

Deals and Steals for the Weekend - 11/8/2014

Here we go with your regularly-scheduled Deals and Steals for this lovely fall weekend.

"Every weekend, check in on the blog for a collection of the best (read: my favorite) deals and steals on the interweb for some quality shopping over the weekend. Have any to add? Share them in the comments or shoot me an e-mail. Also, if you're biting on any of these hooks, I'd love to hear about it!"

And this week's deals are...


25% Off Select Fall Styles and 30% Off Clearance at J.Crew (code GETWARM):
J.Crew has been running a pretty constant extra discount off their clearance goods, but the selection is always shifting, and this week they've got some newer, fall-centric items getting knocked down as well. From the clearance section, I spotted these camp pants, and they're already in my shopping cart:

Camp Pant | J.Crew

First, the color is perfect for fall - an almost military green, but just a shade brighter to keep things from getting too dull. Second, I love the patch pockets...just another small detail that sets these apart from your everyday chinos. Last, the price is damn hard to beat, with these coming in at just $24 (normally $100). Jump on em, just don't buy the last pair in my size!

Shifting over to the fall items, my first pick is this cotton fishtail parka:

Cotton Fishtail Parka | J.Crew

It's not going to get you through winter, but will make a great mid-weight jacket for the next month or two. The fishtail style is pretty popular these days, and often hard to find at an affordable price, so it's nice to see it here for just $163.50 (regularly $218).

Another piece of outerwear that caught my eye was this M-65 jacket from J.Crew's Wallace and Barnes line:

Wallace & Barnes M-65 Jacket | J.Crew

I just reviewed the classic Alpha Industries M-65 earlier this week, with the main complaint that the cut was way too large. This version, while more expensive, is sure to be much more slim-fitting and true-to-size (as well as warmer, thanks to the wool lining). The navy color is a nice touch, and the price is knocked down to about $275 from $368.

Last, I'll probably pick up one of these slim lambswool sweaters:

Slim Lambswool Sweater | J.Crew

I've found that you normally have to choose between a slim but lightweight merino sweater, or a warm but boxy lambswool option. Here comes J.Crew to save the day with a combo of the two - slim-fitting, warm lambswool, all wrapped up in one package. Comes in a huge range of colors, at just $52.50 a piece (originally $70).


Weekly Promotions from Uniqlo:
My picks here aren't anything crazy or out of the box, but fit perfectly with my go-to fall style this year: button-down shirts under crew-neck sweaters or sweatshirts. First, Uniqlo's slim OCBD's are an affordable go-to for many budget-conscious fellas, and this week they've been tossed into the sale section:

Oxford Slim Fit Long Sleeve Shirt | Uniqlo

Regularly $30, you can now grab them for a mere $20. Personally, I'm looking at the more saturated colors, like the navy shown above - I think it's a nice seasonal change from the more washed out light blues, greys, and whites.

For the crew-neck, I'm thinking of picking up a grey number from their Pure Blue Japan project:

Pure Blue Japan Sweatshirt | Unqlo

Granted, it's not on sale, and it looks like a pretty standard option, nothing exciting. That said, $40 is far from expensive, and it's got all the details I want: raglan sleeves, off-color accent stitching, and a reinforced V at the neck.

Now, if you want something a bit more interesting (and conveniently, on sale), check out their artsy SPRZ collection. Lots of bold prints and patterns, but my choice is this fella:

SPRZ NY Graphic Sweat (Jean-Michel Basquiat) | Uniqlo

The Basquiat crown is a cool touch, but not too in-your-face or try-hard, and the military green is on-point for the season. Regularly $30, now insanely affordable at just $15.


20% Off Merino Sweaters at Bonobos (code PRIMOMERINO):
In all transparency, yes, I do now work for Bonobos, but if you've been following the blog or my Instagram for long, you'll know I've long been a fan of their merino sweaters. I usually pick one up whenever they land in the sale section, but this discount code sends some of their newer, full-priced options into affordable territory. This season, I'm particular to crew-necks, like this one in charcoal:

Yorkshire Merino Crew Neck | Bonobos

Super easy to match, incredibly soft and comfortable, and marked down to $78 from just under $100.

If you've got some extra bills and want something a little outside the box, try their 'Boston Waler':

Boston Waler | Bonobos

Where most merino sweaters are pretty lightweight, this pick is a bit chunkier. Plus, subtle details like the chest pocket and asymetrical collar will help your layering game stand out from the crown. Regularly $138, the discount puts these at just over $110 each.


Lots of picks to keep you warm as it keeps getting colder! Any other good fall-weather finds out there? Share in the comments, and happy shopping!

Outfit Post: The Building Blocks

It’s been a while since I’ve thrown up an outfit post, and even longer since I’ve featured a more dressed-up look, so I figured it was about time. However, I’m taking a slightly different approach this time, as I was hoping to focus on and share my usual method for building an outfit.

A lot of guys (including myself, at one point), get to a point where they have the sartorial education/know-how to put together a strong wardrobe of well-fitting, stylish pieces, but struggle to put them together into a coherent outfit. One of the most common questions I see is “where do I start?” With that in mind, here’s how I do it.

I try to start every outfit with one piece. This may be a new article of clothing that I’m really excited to wear or an old one that I’ve been meaning to work back into my rotation. It may be a bold, statement piece, or a neutral base. It might be as front-and-center as a blazer, or as behind-the-scenes as a pair of socks or pocket square. The point is, this piece acts as the foundation for the rest of the building blocks that will come together to form my outfit.

For this look, I started with my blue and off-white plaid blazer from Gagliardi. It’s one of my favorite pieces, from the fit to the construction to the style, but I wear it far less than I would like, simply because the bold pattern makes it trickier to match (and a little less office-friendly). This weekend, I dressed up my off-duty look a bit more than I have been this summer, and decided it would be a good chance to have the freedom to rock this bad boy. So boom, foundation piece and starting point:

From there, every decision comes back to this one piece. You could go any direction, but I went to pants next. While I didn’t have the restrictions of an office dress code to work with, the blazer is still pretty in-your-face, as far as style goes. Therefore, I decided right away to tone down the rest of my pieces. I also wanted to dress down the tailored look a bit, since it was still the weekend. Thus, for pants, the easy choice was a pair of dark blue jeans: a subtle and neutral pair of pants that were casual enough for the occasion but sharp enough for the combination, and in a blue that will play well with the colors in the jacket:

When it came to the shirt, the patterned blazer immediately dictated a solid shirt (or at the very least a very subtle pattern). Beyond that, I took the same mindset as I did with my pants, and picked what I consider to be the shirt equivalent of a pair of crisp blue jeans: a white OCBD. Again, weekend-casual, but fitting to wear with a tailored blazer. Where I played off the darker colors in the blazer when picking the jeans, this time around I brought out the lighter contrasting notes and picked a white shirt over blue:

From there, I just kept up those same themes as I picked out accessories and final touches. A knit cotton tie, a chambray pocket square, a brown belt and blue suede brogues with no-show socks. Each seems like (and is) a pretty straightforward choice, but if you look at the path that took me to each piece, it always starts with the blazer.

Of course, there are numerous other techniques and considerations to take into account: color-matching, pattern-matching, balance, seasonality, the list goes on and on (and some are mentioned throughout this article). However, starting with a foundation piece as we suggest here gives you the palette upon which you apply all of those other principles. It’s in no way the only factor in the equation, but it’s a strong and simple place to start.

Outfit Details:

Gagliardi Plaid Cotton/Wool Blazer
Levi's 513 Blue Jeans
Uniqlo White Slim OCBD
Thrifted Vintage Woven Belt (similar, new)
J.Crew Factory Blue Cotton Knit Tie
Past The Pocket Chambray Pocket Square
Bass Blue Suede Shoes (similar)
PACT No-Show Socks (unseen)

What's your method of choice? Share in the comments below!

Three Things I Love (Including an Update from Proper Cloth)

Over the past month or two, I had three things I really love come together in such a way that I had to share here on the blog:

1) Reader Participation: As much as I love sharing my own menswear knowledge, I never let myself forget that I myself still have tons to learn. With that in mind, one of my favorite things about blogging is getting feedback from you folks, especially when you open my eyes to new information that helps me be a more stylish gent (and more informed blogger at that). Last month, following my review of Proper Cloth, AJ helpfully pointed out one ill-fitting aspect of my MTM shirt that I would never have noticed. Take a look at the following picture and see if you catch it:

To me, it seemed like a pretty perfect fit - but take a look at the armholes. As AJ was kind enough to inform me, the armholes on a proper-fitting shirt should drape vertically (or close to it). The way that the armholes on my shirt angle inwards is an indication that the yoke was cut too wide. Who knew?! Thanks AJ, from now on this will be one of my 'checklist' areas when evaluating fit.

Which brings me to the second thing I love:

2) Great Customer Service: After AJ pointed out the above flaw, I shot an e-mail to Proper Cloth. Honestly, since I hadn't even noticed the issue, I would have been happy keeping the shirt as is, but I wanted to adjust my pattern for future orders - but Proper Cloth would have nothing to do with my lack of demand for perfection! Not only did they help walk me through the changes in the measurements that would correct the angle, but they promptly submitted an order for a re-make, no prodding from my end at all. Fan-freaking-tastic. In my opinion, as MTM options become more and more abundant, finding a brand that makes a good fit is far easier than finding a brand with a great product and customer service that sets them above the competition, and Proper Cloth rose to this challenge with great success.

And that brings me to the final item on my list:

3) A Perfectly Fitting OCBD: Just check out the difference in the shoulder and arm:

Perfect vertical arm-hole seam!

So I'll close out with two pieces of encouragement (wow, all about numbered lists today, huh?): First, check out Proper Cloth. Second, chime in! Teach me something, share your style, or just say 'Hi,' I love to hear from you.

To reiterate, this article refers to a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were provided to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by Proper Cloth. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself. 

Outfit Post - The DIY Band Collar Shirt

Sorry for the brief hiatus there! My computer decided it didn't want to turn on any more, and in fact I'm still on a loaner today. Therefore, just a quick one today: 

This outfit post was spawned out of a few moments of serendipity - I just happened to be wearing this great shirt that I recently re-purposed and wanted to share - we just happened to be passing this really cool mural in Wicker Park and wanted to grab the chance for a photo op - I just happened to like the resulting outfit/photo combo enough to want to slap it right up here for you all to check out:

The big take away from this one is definitely the re-purposed shirt. I’ve been seeing band collar shirts pop up all over the place, most notably as a new staple in Wes’ wardrobe (of TSBmen fame). I dig the look, however, much like pop-over shirts, the surge in popularity of this style doesn’t seem to have really made it into the affordable shopping realm, so I’ve been stuck admiring from afar.

More recently, I saw a few mentions of making your own DIY band collars by simply cutting off the collar of one of your button-front shirts. Again, I was pretty enamored with the idea, but was unnerved by stories of crazy fraying and couldn’t muster the courage to take my scissors to one of my dear shirts.

A few weeks ago, however, I was sorting through my closet trying to free up some space and hangers, and came across this shirt that I reviewed for Trashness back in the fall. Back then, I was impressed with the denim shirt they sent me, and more recently was a big fan of their updated oxford cloth, but this first OCBD offering they sent me was just a little rough around the edges. That said, I realized that the things I didn't love about it to being with (kinda rough collar, fraying along the placket, slightly messy logo), made the shirt a perfect candidate for some impromptu surgery. Best part was, I rarely wear the shirt as is, so if it turned into a huge failure, I wouldn't be all full of regret.

Ten minutes of careful snipping later, and voila - band collar OCBD: 

And boy am I glad I took the leap. After a wash or two, the fraying and the collar along with the rough stitching on the placket gave this barely-worn shirt a perfect, beat up and lived-in look. On top of that, the fabric is a bit lighter for an oxford, and along with the band collar makes this a really nice casual summer shirt. I’ll add, too, that the trim fit was an aspect I already loved (good work, Trashness), and the silhouette is pretty sharp - so while casual, I think it comes together very well in a dapper, ‘weekend gent’ look like this one.

Here, I paired it with a pair of Uniqlo chinos in a lighter blue (again, great for the sunny summer day - I believe we were headed to a street fest here in Chicago) that I picked up during my recent trip to SF. I could have definitely played down the formality by wearing sneakers or boat shoes, and maybe a ribbon belt, or my go-to braided brown belt, but I wanted to keep that dapper edge, so I went with my black Everlane belt (similar here) and my favorite (but unfortunately almost worn out) black Allen Edmond’s (similar here) - and of course, I kept it seasonal and breezy by rocking the sockless look with the help of some PACT no-shows.

Moral of the story - I say this is a sartorial jump you should really consider. The benefit (besides what I think is a really stylish look) lies strongly in the whole idea of re-purposing rather than buying new - not only do you get to save money, but you get to recycle on older piece of clothing that might otherwise go to waste. It’s a great move for any clothes-horses who have hit their budget limits early and need to fulfill the urge to add something new and exciting to the rotation before the next payday!

What do you think? How did the look come together? Is the band-collar shirt a strength or a weakness? Does this tempt any of you to undergo some DIY shirt surgery?

Outfit Post - Saturday at the Dog Park

We finally had an absolutely beautiful weekend here in Chicago, so Christine and I took advantage of the weather and took a long walk to Wiggly Field (yes, that's the official name) with our puggle, M.C. Hammerpants (yes, that's his real name). As we were walking, it dawned on me that I rarely post really casual outfits on here, and most of what you see of me is in my work or more dressed-up weekend duds, so I figured this would be a good chance to feature a really laid back (but still sharp) look:

If you'll recall from my list of summer style goals, I decided recently that I wanted to start wearing chinos more in a casual setting, as opposed to turning to denim every time I'm off duty. I grabbed these Alpha Khakis from Dockers with just that in mind...the bright color is a little bit much for my law firm day-job, but it's a perfect summery punch of color for a weekend look. I love the fit of Dockers Alphas, but they are just a tad long on me. Since I haven't had the chance to hit up the tailor with these, I rolled the cuffs, which added an extra casual vibe to the look and emphasized the bare ankle (one of my favorite parts of summer).

Up top, I picked this striped tee that I got during the last big Bonobos sale for about $10 (similar here). Not only was it a steal, but the blue and white stripes give a nautical vibe that is very on-trend for spring (and summer, and fall, and pretty much all the time except dead winter). I really like it in this combo as an added bit of color that stays neutral and subtle enough to not come off as clownish in combo with the bright pants.

I also said I wanted to step up my summer footwear game, and I'm in the process of doing so with some Jack Purcell's on the way from Mr. Porter. Meanwhile, though, I really can't go wrong with my Sperry Topsider boat shoes. I picked these up last summer and wear them all the damn time and they just keep getting better and better. In fact, I used to be really OCD about keeping my kicks pristine, but after these got covered in mud at Lollapalooza, I kinda accepted their beat-up-ness and since then have really come to love the personality that some hard wear can give a pair of shoes. I'm also rocking a pair of Pact No-Show loafer socks, which I consider a must-have for the summer, and allow me to kick it sockless without worrying about gross, stinky feet and shoes.

Last, as I was stepping out, I realized it wasn't quite as warm as I thought, especially in the shade. Instead of bringing a light jacket, which honestly would have been a bit much and I would have ended up carrying most of the day, I made a smart choice by throwing on this Frank & Oak OCBD. It's one of my favorite pieces from F&O (you all know my love of an OCBD by now), and I wear it all the time, whether it's to work with a knit tie and a blazer, or on the weekends with jeans and some Chukkas. Here, I took it to new territory by kind of using it as an extra-light jacket. While I normally steer clear of the untucked and unbuttoned look, using this as a jacket let me lighten up on the sartorial 'rules' and embrace the laid-back nature of the look (and the gorgeous day).

For accessories, I topped things off with my brown braided leather belt, which has become my favorite thrift-store find. I literally spent about a dollar on it, and I think it's become a signature part of my style (more on that later). The Form*Function*Form watch that Christine gave me last year was the perfect finishing touch, and was a spot-on match for the brown leather of the belt and shoes. I love that this watch straddles the casual and at least semi-business line very comfortably - I'll wear it with jeans and a Tee one day and with a dress shirt and blazer the next. Versatility is key, my friends.

Anyway, ended up really happy with the 'fit, and had a fantastic day - we hung out at the dog park, took a leisurely stroll home through Lincoln Park, stopped in for cocktails and bacon-wrapped dates (and some treats for the pup) at a neighborhood cafe, and just soaked in the summery Chicago vibes.

How do you relax, sartorially? Do you have a go-to casual look, or are there new trends you are trying to work into your rotation? Share in the comments!

Outfit Details:
T-Shirt: Bonobos (similar) (use our referral link for $25 off)
OCBD: Frank & Oak (use our referral link for $25 off)
Chinos: Dockers Alpha Khaki
Shoes: Sperry Topsider (Editors Note: You can grab these on sale right now at Nordstrom for just $60. Great deal, I'm grabbing a pair if I can).
Socks: PACT No-Show Socks
Watch: Form*Function*Form via Huckberry
Glasses: Grant frames by Penn Avenue Eyewear
Belt: Vintage Thrifted, suckas.

Proper Cloth Made-To-Measure Shirting Reviewed

The Brand:

As per the usual, I'm going to let Proper Cloth do the talking here, rather than just regurgitating their history back at you. From their website:

"The original idea was simple: make it easy for men to buy dress shirts that fit perfectly. 

In October 2008 we launched the first version of propercloth.com and sold our first shirt. We were not an instant success. The first couple years were particularly humble. We didn't come from fashion. We didn't have any contacts. We had a lot to learn. We made a lot of mistakes. We were bootstrapping with credit cards and small loans from friends and family. Our manufacturing was antiquated and slow. Our selection was limited. Our website was confusing. Then there was the financial crisis... 

But we stuck with it. Listened to our customers. Networked in the industry. Solved problems. Improved our systems. Became experts on patterning and construction. Fabric and styling. Photography and user interface. Supply chain and logistics. Our growth has been strong and steady, but we've kept our team relatively small. Five people. Really. Seph, Yura, Brittany, Harrison and Chris. We’re based in New York. We do all of our design and customer service at our space in SOHO. We’re profitable and growing. We’re not in a rush to expand and we won't use near sighted tactics to get results. We're focused on the long term. We're committed to building a lasting brand and business. We have thousands of clients. We love what we do."

The description goes on in more detail, but the takeaway is that they came here to make damn good shirts, that are damn easy to buy, and to build a continually evolving company that understands that style is about more than just clothing. They wrap it up with a line I especially dug:

"The right clothing can help someone realize who they are. Stories are how we understand the world around us. Clothing can help tell those stories. "

For more information regarding the history and values of Proper Cloth, as well as the variety of fabrics, customizations, etc. that they offer, head over to their 'About Us' and read up.

The Order:

I went into great detail about the process of customizing a made-to-measure shirt in this recent post featuring the Proper Cloth website, so I won't re-hash too much of that here, but I will provide the details of my order once more:

Fabric: Thomas Mason Light Pink Oxford
Collar Style: Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuff Style: Soft One Button
Pocket: One Chest Pocket
Placket: Soft Front Placket (although I'm very tempted to try out the popover)
Yoke: Split Yoke
Buttons: Tall Mother of Pearl
Monogram: Back of Collar in Burgundy

I chose a very expensive fabric (mainly because I wanted to feel the difference it made), which clocks in at a starting price of $140, but their standard options - which aren't shabby at all themselves - start at $85 and include both basic fabrics and more on-trend picks like denim and chambray.

A few more notes regarding the ordering process: I have to say that the Proper Cloth website is one of the prettiest MTM systems I've seen - most are clunky and unattractive, but Proper Cloth managed to squeeze a custom ordering system into a sleek and modern website. On top of that, they've provided some great additional resources, especially their 'Reference' page, which includes information like 'How a Dress Shirt Should Fit' and 'Dress Shirt Construction.'

As far as sizing goes, the folks at Proper Cloth suggest I try out their new smart-sizing algorithm. I was a bit hesitant, as I like to use the self-measuring option (just feels more custom that way, and can be a better judge of the quality of customization that you get), but I took their advice and am damn glad I did (I'll expand on this in a moment). The system itself was a breeze, with just a few questions about your body and your preferred fit. After the survey, measurements are generated, and then you are given the opportunity to tweak them as you like. I slimmed down the cuffs, and maybe adjusted a few things by very minimal amounts, but for the most part I decided to test their algorithm, and...

The Fit:

...and hot damn, this shirt fits incredibly. I have had some really good results with other made-to-measure companies, but this shirt is by far the best-fitting in my closet. Shoulders, chest, and body are all spot-on, and I usually expect those to be, even on a first order. 

Seams end right at the shoulder. Minimal excess fabric in the chest.

No billowing at the waist, slim through the torso.

What impressed me most was the perfect fit through the sleeves and cuffs, both in width and length. This has always been an area I struggled with, whether it's OTR shirting or MTM shirting - somehow I always end up with something off just enough for it to bug me. 

Sleeves stay slim through the forearm and bicep, with high armholes.

Length falls perfectly on the hand, and cuff width is appropriate.

I was also impressed with the length. I think some made-to-measure brands cut their shirts overly long to avoid having to re-make something cut short. This doesn't usually bother me, as it's never crazy long, and I usually go tucked anyway. However, it can be a bit of a nuisance on more casual shirts that you may want to wear untucked from time to time. Again, Proper Cloth hit the sweet spot, as this shirt is just long enough to stay tucked when I want it to, but the perfect length to wear untucked as well.

Tucked, un-tucked, the choice is mine.

When it comes down to it, I go into my first MTM experience with any company expecting to have to make at least a few tweaks to my pattern in order to get the perfect fit, but Proper Cloth dialed me in on the first try, and like I said, I'm impressed.

I'll take a minute here, too, to point out that Proper Cloth does offer a perfect fit guarantee, so if the fit hadn't been so great, I could have sent it back for a remake. It sounds like they offer a lot of assistance on this end - if you know exactly what you want changed, you just let them know, but if you just feel its 'off,' you have the option of sending in pictures or even calling and chatting so they can help you find the problem areas. Sounds like good stuff, and I kinda wish I could have given it a test drive, but I can't complain about perfection.

The Construction:

Again, everything here is pretty darn top notch. The stitching is straight and even, and I can't find any loose threads, snags in the fabric, or anything else to mar to finished product. Even the monogram is tastefully done, well centered on the collar, and shaped and stitched cleanly.

Monogram, collar stitching, and minimal branding on tag.

Clean side seam and reinforcing gusset.

Neatly stitched placket and buttonholes.

I'm definitely glad I went with the tall mother-of-pearl buttons. They look so much nicer than plastic, and are thick enough that I'm not worried about them breaking anytime soon.

Sturdy MOP buttons with clean crisscross-stitching.

The collar and cuffs are soft and un-fused, as I specified, and I think lend very well to the slightly-rumpled Ivy prep style. There is enough substance for them to hold shape, but not to look starched or too structured if I'm going sans jacket and tie.

Look at that gorgeous collar roll.

I'm also really loving the way the shape of the collar came out. The roll is very distinct, but it captures that ivy-league, vintage prep style perfectly and is exactly what I had in mind. I do think it makes things a bit more casual than even a standard button-down collar, but that's what I was aiming for when designing the shirt.

And that's really my only beef - and barely beef at that: the fabric is a bit dressier than I anticipated. I knew that Thomas Mason fabric would be higher quality (and should be, at that price), but was still expecting something heavier and rougher, as most oxford cloth tends to be. This fabric, instead, does have a little bit of sheen to it, and is lighter than I expected, but to be honest, these are both probably good things that will only increase the versatility of the shirt.

In all other regards, the fabric is very nice, which you would expect from Thomas Mason. The hand is soft and comfortable, but still holds a press well enough to look sharp of you're dressing it up. It does wrinkle a bit easily at the elbows, but it doesn't hold creases very strongly so all it takes is a quick iron at the end of the day and it's good as new. As I said, the weight is definitely a bit lighter than your standard oxford cloth, but is still thicker than a poplin or broadcloth alternative. Lastly, the pink color works out very well - I'm not opposed to pink at all, but I think the over saturated and bright shades are a bit too much for me. This color is more muted and works very well with the laid-back style, so I'm happy!

The Service:

When it comes to customer service, the entire process was a pleasure. While the fit guarantee is actually pretty common among MTM clothiers, their offers to really help you walk through adjustments seems like a step above and beyond, and one that I like to see. Proper Cloth makes other good moves throughout the order, like thorough e-mail updates as you shirt goes to the factory, gets packaged, and is shipped. The total turnaround was better than average as well, with the shirt arriving only seven days after I placed the order (Proper Cloth quotes a 10-16 day wait on their site, which is already well below most MTM companies). Since I didn't have any issues with the shirt, I can't speak too much for their customer service (and I gotta count that as a point for them), but all correspondence I had with them was prompt and polite, so no complaints here. 

In Conclusion:

When it comes down to it, I'd say that the only real downside to ordering from Proper Cloth is the pricing. They do have much more affordable fabrics to start with, but they lack some of the discount options you can find at brands like Modern Tailor. That said, my biggest complaint with Modern Tailor has been the quality of the fabrics, so this might just be worth it. The resulting fit and the quality of the construction definitely hold up to the expectations that come with a price point like that, so if you think your particular fabric is worth the price, Proper Cloth won't let you down. I even admittedly opted for a higher end cloth as I wanted to see the difference between a Thomas Mason OCBD and a Target OCBD, up close and personal, but could definitely have been happy with something closer to their starting rate of $85. 

To put it most simply:

Pros: Easy Measuring System; Customization Options; Fabric Selection; Turnaround Time; Fit; Quality; Construction; Perfect Fit Guarantee. Not much not to love.

Cons: Price. Really, I can't think of anything else here, and to be perfectly honest, you get what you pay for.

Editors Note: If you are interested in purchasing a shirt from Proper Cloth, use our referral link for a discount on your first order.

So there you have it. Have any of you tried Proper Cloth? What were your thoughts? Anyone with other MTM shirting companies to compare? Chime in using the comments or our social networks.

This was a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were provided to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by Proper Cloth. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself. 

Deals and Steals for the Weekend - 5/2/2014

Womp womp, it's almost the weekend! You know what that means:

"Every weekend, check in on the blog for a collection of the best (read: my favorite) deals and steals on the interweb for some quality shopping over the weekend. Have any to add? Share them in the comments or shoot me an e-mail. Also, if you're biting on any of these hooks, I'd love to hear about it!"

And we've got some really good ones this week:

Sale Items at Imogene + Willie:
I've been yearning after this brand ever since I saw them featured on ESQTV's Alternate Route. Unfortunately, their retail prices are a bit out of my budget. Fortunately, they have some really nice items in their sale section that are way more affordable. For example, I have my eye on this Henley, normally $145, but now just $40:

Men's Henley | Imogene + Willie

Sure, it's a basic item, but it hits all the right notes. It's slim fit, and looks to be just the right thickness for a spring layering piece. I also love the natural/ecru(?) color - although the styling on the model is a bit funky.

They also have this fantastic chambray shirt, which would make a solid casual option year round:

Carter Chambray | Imogene + Willie

I've professed my love for chambray in previous posts, so it's no surprise that a high-end chambray at an affordable price would catch my eye. This guy is regularly $225 (hot damn), but now you can grab one for only $40.

Promotional Prices at Uniqlo:
So, if that $40 chambray is still too steep for your taste, Uniqlo has you covered. Their chambrays start cheap at $30, but for a limited time are available for a pretty unbelievable $15. 

Chambray Long Sleeve Shirt | Uniqlo

At a glance, it's identical to the Willie + Imogene option. In reality, you'll be missing out on some of the details that make the I + W shirt so...well...awesome (double-needle chainstitch construction, bartack-reinforced chest pockets, genuine shell fisheye buttons...things I don't even necessarily understand but sound damn nice), but you still end up with a helluva nice looking shirt. Take note that it is not a slim fit, but I usually even get the slim options from Uniqlo taken in a bit, so it's not really an extra charge.

Now, I'm halfway pumped about this one and halfway pissed, cuz I literally just got this two weekends ago for full price...but I really can't be that upset since my lovely girlfriend bought it for me as a gift. Anyway, I think I raved enough last year about Uniqlo's linen/cotton blazers for you to have gotten the point. They are lightweight, super comfortable, and ridiculously affordable at just $70. Now, they're even more irresistible as they are knocked down to a crazy $50. All the linen/cotton options are on sale, and you can't go wrong with a solid (like the navy I bought last year), but my favorite is definitely the one my gal gifted, in a light blue houndstooth pattern:

Linen Cotton Slim Fit Jacket | Uniqlo

It's just enough of a pattern to be interesting, but not so bold that it's hard to wear. I've been rocking it with an OCBD and a knit tie, or even just a white henley, and feeling sharp while doing it. If/when they go out of stock, Uniqlo tends to be pretty slow to re-up, so grab one while you can.


Sale Items Up to 70% Off at GANT:
Like Imogene + Willie, GANT is a brand I really enjoy but can rarely afford, so I'm excited when I see things pop up in their sale section that I really like. This slim OCBD in an indigo madras-y plaid balances dress and casual (generally more laid back, but good enough to wear with a tie), as well as fall and spring, and we all know how much I value versatility:

Indigo Oxford Check Hugger Original Button Down | GANT

At $41, down from an original price of $135, it's definitely a steal and definitely within the range of do-able prices.

I'm also really digging these twill pants, mainly for the color, but also for the $54 price, regularly $180:

Stick Boy Broken Twill | GANT

The green is perfect for spring...it fits in great with the color schemes I discussed a few weeks ago - along the same lines as the hunter green that was all the rage in the fall, but injected with just enough brightness to match the improving weather.



Aaaaand I'm actually going to cut it short this week, cuz as I'm writing this on Thursday night, every other sale I was going to mention ends today. Sheesh!

I will give a quick plug though, I've just started taking advantage of the various discussion forums for purchasing items directly from other stylish gents - for example, I'm getting a pair of like-new, light rinse Levi's from a fella on Reddit for $10, shipped. Boom. You can also find guys selling things on StyleForum, Dappered's Threads, and (I believe a relatively new site) Grailed. Of course, selection is hit or miss, but if you're patient and diligent you'll get some damn good deals.

Made-To-Measure Customizations ft. Proper Cloth

Ever since getting my first Made-To-Measure shirt last spring, I've been hooked. There's just something about wearing a shirt that was made just for you that feels above and beyond even the nicest off-the-rack shirting (in my humble opinion), and with the surge in online MTM options, going custom isn't quite the exclusive club it used to be.

That said, going the MTM route can be kind of intimidating, understandably. While most MTM clothiers offer pre-styled options, I personally think half the fun of ordering custom is getting to pick out all the little details. However, you really need to know where to start, and what each of those custom decisions is going to say. Made-to-measure clothier Proper Cloth has been kind enough to provide a shirt for a future review, and I'm going to walk you through my customizations (all screen shots are taken directly from the Proper Cloth website):

Fabrics:

First up is your choice of fabrics, and this will probably be the one you are already the most comfortable with, as you make similar decisions when you buy OTR. Some MTM brands offer a crazy number of fabrics (see Modern Tailor), others offer very few, and I think Proper Cloth falls pretty comfortably in the middle. As you'll notice as we get farther along, the biggest difference your choices will make lie in the formality of your shirt - certain fabrics and patterns are inherently much more casual, while others are dressier. In general, heavier fabrics tend to be more casual, although there are some nice twills that dress up very well. For the most part, fabric and pattern will be based on personal taste, but I recommend focusing on finding a versatile option that you will be able to wear with everything - if this is your first venture into MTM shirting, I can safely bet that this will quickly become your favorite shirt and you'll want to wear it as much as possible. 

Even for myself, after having a few custom shirts in my wardrobe, I'm choosing a solid oxford cloth, and the only limiting factor in it's wearability is the fact that it's a heavier fabric and might be warm in the summer. 

Collar Style:

Next up is collar style, and like I mentioned before, your choice here will say a lot about the formality of your shirt. Proper Cloth offers 23 collar options, many of which differ only very slightly, so it helps to know what you are looking for: 

Going for a casual shirt? Button-down collars are traditionally reserved for more casual shirts, like OCBD's - some guys will even go as far as saying that a button-down collar should never be worn with a suit. I'm not that strict with my rules, but I agree with the general mentality. Within the button-down category are a few options, mostly different in collar height and width of spread. From proper cloth, their Colorado Button Down is probably the most modern with a wider spread and shorter height, but I'm partial to the coveted collar-roll of the Soft Ivy option. The longer the point and narrower the spread, the more conservative the look, and I think the Soft Ivy cuts a nice balance.

On the dressier side of things, you have your point and spread collars. Proper Cloth, like most MTM retailers, offers one standard point collar (which offers a more conservative, office-friendly style), but several spread collar options. For the most part, the spread collars will differ in the width of the spread and the height of the points, and the difference speaks largely to the modernity and 'fashion-forward-ness' (for lack of a real word) of the style. The wider the spread, the more flair - maybe not necessarily more dressy (a point collar with a narrow spread can be just as formal), but definitely bolder and more rakish. 

It's not 100% personal taste, though, as your body type will dictate, to some extent, the proportions that will work for you (which is what custom is all about, anyway). A shorter collar will look proportionate on a smaller guy, whereas it might look childishly small on a tall or large man. Likewise, a very wide spread (which usually calls for a wider tie), can swallow a skinny guy's neck. There's definitely some room in either direction, but it's something to be aware of. 

Beyond button-down, spread, and point collars, there are a few more unique collar choices: 

For example, do you like the functionality of a button-down, but want a dressier look? Try the hidden button-down, which is exactly what it sounds like. the button-holes don't go the whole way through the collar, so they are invisible when fastened (but still hold the collar to your shirt).

Other options include the wingtip, which should be reserved for tuxedo shirts, the band collar, which is seeing some popularity as a casual, summery option, and the club collar which has a cool, rockabilly, 50's vibe. These can make cool choices, but again, I recommend aiming for versatility, which these tend to lack.

Cuff Style:

After choosing your collar, you have a variety of cuff options to pick from as well. Again, your choice will mainly affect the formality of your shirt. French cuffs are the most formal option, and you should only wear these with a jacket (and remember that they will require cuff-links as well, if you don't already own a pair). The convertible cuff is a nice in-between option that gives you the best of both worlds - links when you want em, buttons when you don't. If you opt for buttoned (which I usually do, again for versatility), there are still a few options to pick from. I find the two-button cuffs to be more formal, with just a bit more structure - I actually caught on to Frank Underwood rocking the two-button cuff on House of Cards and think of his sleek, refined style whenever I see these. You'll also be able to pick the finishing of the corners - mitered, rounded, square - which make pretty negligible differences in my eyes. For your most casual shirts, a soft cuff will give you the most laid-back, easy-going style. 

Pocket:

Pocket or no pocket? To some extent, like always, this is down to personal taste, but a pocket is traditionally seen as a more casual accouterments, and going pocket-less definitely lends to a sleeker, more formal profile. 

At this point, if you're rocking Proper Cloth, click 'more style options' for, well, more style options:

Placket: 

I love that Proper Cloth is offering a popover option now, and I'm hoping to see that available at more and more retailers as the style gains popularity. That said, the popover style, as well as the tuxedo style, are pretty niche options, and you should know if that's what you want. Between the rest, as usual, it comes down to formality. Basically, the more stitching you see, the more casual - which makes sense, as you tend to look for more streamlined looks when going more formal or dressy. That said, a standard front placket is widely versatile, and will only be too casual in the most formal of settings (I wouldn't wear one with a tux or dinner jacket, per se). Other end of the spectrum, the hidden placket, is going to be far too formal for most occasions, unless you're going for some serious sartorial flair. 

Yoke:

You will also see the option to pick a split yoke or solid yoke. Often, a split yoke comes at a higher price, because the two pieces across the shoulders (as opposed to one) require special attention in order to match patterns or textures. For the most part, a split yoke is preferred, as the construction method actually allows for a more freedom of movement and therefore a more comfortable wear. I would only avoid this option if I was not so confident in the skill of the people constructing the shirt.

Buttons:

A few other MTM retailers that I've used have offered a full range of button colors, but I think Proper Cloth offers all you need. For the most part, you just want to compliment the colors on your shirt - 9 times out of 10, Mother of Pearl is the way to go. I only opt for dark buttons with particularly dark shirts, as I don't like a lot of contrast between the shirt and buttons (personal preference). For lighter colors, MOP is a bit heartier, and a bit classier. It'll usually cost you a couple extra bucks, but I think it's worth it. If you're concerned about buttons breaking, or are picking a more casual shirt (like an OCBD), the tall mother of pearl option will be a bit more solid. I like that Proper Cloth includes a brown horn option, which I think would play very well with more patterned shirts (that aren't strictly light or dark). 

Monogram:

Do it. Especially with Proper Cloth, who I don't believe charge any extra. This is your custom shirt, and having that little touch that marks it as such just feels good, even if you get one that no one else will see. If you put your monogram in a visible position, pick a thread that closely matches your shirt color in order to create a more subtle effect. However, if you are placing the monogram somewhere hidden (like inside the collar), feel free to go bold and bright. Regardless, it's something that should be there more for you than anyone else. I tend to opt for either a cuff, which looks very classy peeking out from a jacket sleeve, or the back of the collar if I want it to stay hidden.

And that pretty much wraps it up. There are a few minor adjustments you can still make, such as watch allowance, which will leave one sleeve slightly wider at the cuff to fit a timepiece underneath, pleats or darts which will affect the slimness of the shirt, and sometimes options as to the shape of the hemline (more curved to better stay tucked, or flatter to look better untucked).

If you're still unsure (which hopefully you are, at least, less so after reading this), play around with designs for a while, design a few shirts, and see what you end up with. I do this for fun all the time, picking out all the details without actually committing to a purchase. It's a good though exercise, to get you really thinking about the choices you make. It's not so much about making right vs. wrong choices (although there are some rules to follow and some to break), but more-so about making deliberate decisions and understanding why you are making them. 

For kicks, I'm including my specs for my most recent order below: 

Fabric: Thomas Mason Light Pink Oxford

Collar Style: Soft Ivy Button Down

Cuff Style: Soft One Button

Pocket: One Chest Pocket

Placket: Soft Front Placket (although I'm very tempted to try out the popover)

Yoke: Split Yoke

Buttons: Tall Mother of Pearl

Monogram: Back of Collar in Burgundy

As this is my first purchase from Proper Cloth, I'll be reviewing the shirt once it arrives, so keep your eyes open!