Proper Cloth Made-To-Measure Shirting Reviewed

The Brand:

As per the usual, I'm going to let Proper Cloth do the talking here, rather than just regurgitating their history back at you. From their website:

"The original idea was simple: make it easy for men to buy dress shirts that fit perfectly. 

In October 2008 we launched the first version of propercloth.com and sold our first shirt. We were not an instant success. The first couple years were particularly humble. We didn't come from fashion. We didn't have any contacts. We had a lot to learn. We made a lot of mistakes. We were bootstrapping with credit cards and small loans from friends and family. Our manufacturing was antiquated and slow. Our selection was limited. Our website was confusing. Then there was the financial crisis... 

But we stuck with it. Listened to our customers. Networked in the industry. Solved problems. Improved our systems. Became experts on patterning and construction. Fabric and styling. Photography and user interface. Supply chain and logistics. Our growth has been strong and steady, but we've kept our team relatively small. Five people. Really. Seph, Yura, Brittany, Harrison and Chris. We’re based in New York. We do all of our design and customer service at our space in SOHO. We’re profitable and growing. We’re not in a rush to expand and we won't use near sighted tactics to get results. We're focused on the long term. We're committed to building a lasting brand and business. We have thousands of clients. We love what we do."

The description goes on in more detail, but the takeaway is that they came here to make damn good shirts, that are damn easy to buy, and to build a continually evolving company that understands that style is about more than just clothing. They wrap it up with a line I especially dug:

"The right clothing can help someone realize who they are. Stories are how we understand the world around us. Clothing can help tell those stories. "

For more information regarding the history and values of Proper Cloth, as well as the variety of fabrics, customizations, etc. that they offer, head over to their 'About Us' and read up.

The Order:

I went into great detail about the process of customizing a made-to-measure shirt in this recent post featuring the Proper Cloth website, so I won't re-hash too much of that here, but I will provide the details of my order once more:

Fabric: Thomas Mason Light Pink Oxford
Collar Style: Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuff Style: Soft One Button
Pocket: One Chest Pocket
Placket: Soft Front Placket (although I'm very tempted to try out the popover)
Yoke: Split Yoke
Buttons: Tall Mother of Pearl
Monogram: Back of Collar in Burgundy

I chose a very expensive fabric (mainly because I wanted to feel the difference it made), which clocks in at a starting price of $140, but their standard options - which aren't shabby at all themselves - start at $85 and include both basic fabrics and more on-trend picks like denim and chambray.

A few more notes regarding the ordering process: I have to say that the Proper Cloth website is one of the prettiest MTM systems I've seen - most are clunky and unattractive, but Proper Cloth managed to squeeze a custom ordering system into a sleek and modern website. On top of that, they've provided some great additional resources, especially their 'Reference' page, which includes information like 'How a Dress Shirt Should Fit' and 'Dress Shirt Construction.'

As far as sizing goes, the folks at Proper Cloth suggest I try out their new smart-sizing algorithm. I was a bit hesitant, as I like to use the self-measuring option (just feels more custom that way, and can be a better judge of the quality of customization that you get), but I took their advice and am damn glad I did (I'll expand on this in a moment). The system itself was a breeze, with just a few questions about your body and your preferred fit. After the survey, measurements are generated, and then you are given the opportunity to tweak them as you like. I slimmed down the cuffs, and maybe adjusted a few things by very minimal amounts, but for the most part I decided to test their algorithm, and...

The Fit:

...and hot damn, this shirt fits incredibly. I have had some really good results with other made-to-measure companies, but this shirt is by far the best-fitting in my closet. Shoulders, chest, and body are all spot-on, and I usually expect those to be, even on a first order. 

Seams end right at the shoulder. Minimal excess fabric in the chest.

No billowing at the waist, slim through the torso.

What impressed me most was the perfect fit through the sleeves and cuffs, both in width and length. This has always been an area I struggled with, whether it's OTR shirting or MTM shirting - somehow I always end up with something off just enough for it to bug me. 

Sleeves stay slim through the forearm and bicep, with high armholes.

Length falls perfectly on the hand, and cuff width is appropriate.

I was also impressed with the length. I think some made-to-measure brands cut their shirts overly long to avoid having to re-make something cut short. This doesn't usually bother me, as it's never crazy long, and I usually go tucked anyway. However, it can be a bit of a nuisance on more casual shirts that you may want to wear untucked from time to time. Again, Proper Cloth hit the sweet spot, as this shirt is just long enough to stay tucked when I want it to, but the perfect length to wear untucked as well.

Tucked, un-tucked, the choice is mine.

When it comes down to it, I go into my first MTM experience with any company expecting to have to make at least a few tweaks to my pattern in order to get the perfect fit, but Proper Cloth dialed me in on the first try, and like I said, I'm impressed.

I'll take a minute here, too, to point out that Proper Cloth does offer a perfect fit guarantee, so if the fit hadn't been so great, I could have sent it back for a remake. It sounds like they offer a lot of assistance on this end - if you know exactly what you want changed, you just let them know, but if you just feel its 'off,' you have the option of sending in pictures or even calling and chatting so they can help you find the problem areas. Sounds like good stuff, and I kinda wish I could have given it a test drive, but I can't complain about perfection.

The Construction:

Again, everything here is pretty darn top notch. The stitching is straight and even, and I can't find any loose threads, snags in the fabric, or anything else to mar to finished product. Even the monogram is tastefully done, well centered on the collar, and shaped and stitched cleanly.

Monogram, collar stitching, and minimal branding on tag.

Clean side seam and reinforcing gusset.

Neatly stitched placket and buttonholes.

I'm definitely glad I went with the tall mother-of-pearl buttons. They look so much nicer than plastic, and are thick enough that I'm not worried about them breaking anytime soon.

Sturdy MOP buttons with clean crisscross-stitching.

The collar and cuffs are soft and un-fused, as I specified, and I think lend very well to the slightly-rumpled Ivy prep style. There is enough substance for them to hold shape, but not to look starched or too structured if I'm going sans jacket and tie.

Look at that gorgeous collar roll.

I'm also really loving the way the shape of the collar came out. The roll is very distinct, but it captures that ivy-league, vintage prep style perfectly and is exactly what I had in mind. I do think it makes things a bit more casual than even a standard button-down collar, but that's what I was aiming for when designing the shirt.

And that's really my only beef - and barely beef at that: the fabric is a bit dressier than I anticipated. I knew that Thomas Mason fabric would be higher quality (and should be, at that price), but was still expecting something heavier and rougher, as most oxford cloth tends to be. This fabric, instead, does have a little bit of sheen to it, and is lighter than I expected, but to be honest, these are both probably good things that will only increase the versatility of the shirt.

In all other regards, the fabric is very nice, which you would expect from Thomas Mason. The hand is soft and comfortable, but still holds a press well enough to look sharp of you're dressing it up. It does wrinkle a bit easily at the elbows, but it doesn't hold creases very strongly so all it takes is a quick iron at the end of the day and it's good as new. As I said, the weight is definitely a bit lighter than your standard oxford cloth, but is still thicker than a poplin or broadcloth alternative. Lastly, the pink color works out very well - I'm not opposed to pink at all, but I think the over saturated and bright shades are a bit too much for me. This color is more muted and works very well with the laid-back style, so I'm happy!

The Service:

When it comes to customer service, the entire process was a pleasure. While the fit guarantee is actually pretty common among MTM clothiers, their offers to really help you walk through adjustments seems like a step above and beyond, and one that I like to see. Proper Cloth makes other good moves throughout the order, like thorough e-mail updates as you shirt goes to the factory, gets packaged, and is shipped. The total turnaround was better than average as well, with the shirt arriving only seven days after I placed the order (Proper Cloth quotes a 10-16 day wait on their site, which is already well below most MTM companies). Since I didn't have any issues with the shirt, I can't speak too much for their customer service (and I gotta count that as a point for them), but all correspondence I had with them was prompt and polite, so no complaints here. 

In Conclusion:

When it comes down to it, I'd say that the only real downside to ordering from Proper Cloth is the pricing. They do have much more affordable fabrics to start with, but they lack some of the discount options you can find at brands like Modern Tailor. That said, my biggest complaint with Modern Tailor has been the quality of the fabrics, so this might just be worth it. The resulting fit and the quality of the construction definitely hold up to the expectations that come with a price point like that, so if you think your particular fabric is worth the price, Proper Cloth won't let you down. I even admittedly opted for a higher end cloth as I wanted to see the difference between a Thomas Mason OCBD and a Target OCBD, up close and personal, but could definitely have been happy with something closer to their starting rate of $85. 

To put it most simply:

Pros: Easy Measuring System; Customization Options; Fabric Selection; Turnaround Time; Fit; Quality; Construction; Perfect Fit Guarantee. Not much not to love.

Cons: Price. Really, I can't think of anything else here, and to be perfectly honest, you get what you pay for.

Editors Note: If you are interested in purchasing a shirt from Proper Cloth, use our referral link for a discount on your first order.

So there you have it. Have any of you tried Proper Cloth? What were your thoughts? Anyone with other MTM shirting companies to compare? Chime in using the comments or our social networks.

This was a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were provided to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by Proper Cloth. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself. 

Made-To-Measure Customizations ft. Proper Cloth

Ever since getting my first Made-To-Measure shirt last spring, I've been hooked. There's just something about wearing a shirt that was made just for you that feels above and beyond even the nicest off-the-rack shirting (in my humble opinion), and with the surge in online MTM options, going custom isn't quite the exclusive club it used to be.

That said, going the MTM route can be kind of intimidating, understandably. While most MTM clothiers offer pre-styled options, I personally think half the fun of ordering custom is getting to pick out all the little details. However, you really need to know where to start, and what each of those custom decisions is going to say. Made-to-measure clothier Proper Cloth has been kind enough to provide a shirt for a future review, and I'm going to walk you through my customizations (all screen shots are taken directly from the Proper Cloth website):

Fabrics:

First up is your choice of fabrics, and this will probably be the one you are already the most comfortable with, as you make similar decisions when you buy OTR. Some MTM brands offer a crazy number of fabrics (see Modern Tailor), others offer very few, and I think Proper Cloth falls pretty comfortably in the middle. As you'll notice as we get farther along, the biggest difference your choices will make lie in the formality of your shirt - certain fabrics and patterns are inherently much more casual, while others are dressier. In general, heavier fabrics tend to be more casual, although there are some nice twills that dress up very well. For the most part, fabric and pattern will be based on personal taste, but I recommend focusing on finding a versatile option that you will be able to wear with everything - if this is your first venture into MTM shirting, I can safely bet that this will quickly become your favorite shirt and you'll want to wear it as much as possible. 

Even for myself, after having a few custom shirts in my wardrobe, I'm choosing a solid oxford cloth, and the only limiting factor in it's wearability is the fact that it's a heavier fabric and might be warm in the summer. 

Collar Style:

Next up is collar style, and like I mentioned before, your choice here will say a lot about the formality of your shirt. Proper Cloth offers 23 collar options, many of which differ only very slightly, so it helps to know what you are looking for: 

Going for a casual shirt? Button-down collars are traditionally reserved for more casual shirts, like OCBD's - some guys will even go as far as saying that a button-down collar should never be worn with a suit. I'm not that strict with my rules, but I agree with the general mentality. Within the button-down category are a few options, mostly different in collar height and width of spread. From proper cloth, their Colorado Button Down is probably the most modern with a wider spread and shorter height, but I'm partial to the coveted collar-roll of the Soft Ivy option. The longer the point and narrower the spread, the more conservative the look, and I think the Soft Ivy cuts a nice balance.

On the dressier side of things, you have your point and spread collars. Proper Cloth, like most MTM retailers, offers one standard point collar (which offers a more conservative, office-friendly style), but several spread collar options. For the most part, the spread collars will differ in the width of the spread and the height of the points, and the difference speaks largely to the modernity and 'fashion-forward-ness' (for lack of a real word) of the style. The wider the spread, the more flair - maybe not necessarily more dressy (a point collar with a narrow spread can be just as formal), but definitely bolder and more rakish. 

It's not 100% personal taste, though, as your body type will dictate, to some extent, the proportions that will work for you (which is what custom is all about, anyway). A shorter collar will look proportionate on a smaller guy, whereas it might look childishly small on a tall or large man. Likewise, a very wide spread (which usually calls for a wider tie), can swallow a skinny guy's neck. There's definitely some room in either direction, but it's something to be aware of. 

Beyond button-down, spread, and point collars, there are a few more unique collar choices: 

For example, do you like the functionality of a button-down, but want a dressier look? Try the hidden button-down, which is exactly what it sounds like. the button-holes don't go the whole way through the collar, so they are invisible when fastened (but still hold the collar to your shirt).

Other options include the wingtip, which should be reserved for tuxedo shirts, the band collar, which is seeing some popularity as a casual, summery option, and the club collar which has a cool, rockabilly, 50's vibe. These can make cool choices, but again, I recommend aiming for versatility, which these tend to lack.

Cuff Style:

After choosing your collar, you have a variety of cuff options to pick from as well. Again, your choice will mainly affect the formality of your shirt. French cuffs are the most formal option, and you should only wear these with a jacket (and remember that they will require cuff-links as well, if you don't already own a pair). The convertible cuff is a nice in-between option that gives you the best of both worlds - links when you want em, buttons when you don't. If you opt for buttoned (which I usually do, again for versatility), there are still a few options to pick from. I find the two-button cuffs to be more formal, with just a bit more structure - I actually caught on to Frank Underwood rocking the two-button cuff on House of Cards and think of his sleek, refined style whenever I see these. You'll also be able to pick the finishing of the corners - mitered, rounded, square - which make pretty negligible differences in my eyes. For your most casual shirts, a soft cuff will give you the most laid-back, easy-going style. 

Pocket:

Pocket or no pocket? To some extent, like always, this is down to personal taste, but a pocket is traditionally seen as a more casual accouterments, and going pocket-less definitely lends to a sleeker, more formal profile. 

At this point, if you're rocking Proper Cloth, click 'more style options' for, well, more style options:

Placket: 

I love that Proper Cloth is offering a popover option now, and I'm hoping to see that available at more and more retailers as the style gains popularity. That said, the popover style, as well as the tuxedo style, are pretty niche options, and you should know if that's what you want. Between the rest, as usual, it comes down to formality. Basically, the more stitching you see, the more casual - which makes sense, as you tend to look for more streamlined looks when going more formal or dressy. That said, a standard front placket is widely versatile, and will only be too casual in the most formal of settings (I wouldn't wear one with a tux or dinner jacket, per se). Other end of the spectrum, the hidden placket, is going to be far too formal for most occasions, unless you're going for some serious sartorial flair. 

Yoke:

You will also see the option to pick a split yoke or solid yoke. Often, a split yoke comes at a higher price, because the two pieces across the shoulders (as opposed to one) require special attention in order to match patterns or textures. For the most part, a split yoke is preferred, as the construction method actually allows for a more freedom of movement and therefore a more comfortable wear. I would only avoid this option if I was not so confident in the skill of the people constructing the shirt.

Buttons:

A few other MTM retailers that I've used have offered a full range of button colors, but I think Proper Cloth offers all you need. For the most part, you just want to compliment the colors on your shirt - 9 times out of 10, Mother of Pearl is the way to go. I only opt for dark buttons with particularly dark shirts, as I don't like a lot of contrast between the shirt and buttons (personal preference). For lighter colors, MOP is a bit heartier, and a bit classier. It'll usually cost you a couple extra bucks, but I think it's worth it. If you're concerned about buttons breaking, or are picking a more casual shirt (like an OCBD), the tall mother of pearl option will be a bit more solid. I like that Proper Cloth includes a brown horn option, which I think would play very well with more patterned shirts (that aren't strictly light or dark). 

Monogram:

Do it. Especially with Proper Cloth, who I don't believe charge any extra. This is your custom shirt, and having that little touch that marks it as such just feels good, even if you get one that no one else will see. If you put your monogram in a visible position, pick a thread that closely matches your shirt color in order to create a more subtle effect. However, if you are placing the monogram somewhere hidden (like inside the collar), feel free to go bold and bright. Regardless, it's something that should be there more for you than anyone else. I tend to opt for either a cuff, which looks very classy peeking out from a jacket sleeve, or the back of the collar if I want it to stay hidden.

And that pretty much wraps it up. There are a few minor adjustments you can still make, such as watch allowance, which will leave one sleeve slightly wider at the cuff to fit a timepiece underneath, pleats or darts which will affect the slimness of the shirt, and sometimes options as to the shape of the hemline (more curved to better stay tucked, or flatter to look better untucked).

If you're still unsure (which hopefully you are, at least, less so after reading this), play around with designs for a while, design a few shirts, and see what you end up with. I do this for fun all the time, picking out all the details without actually committing to a purchase. It's a good though exercise, to get you really thinking about the choices you make. It's not so much about making right vs. wrong choices (although there are some rules to follow and some to break), but more-so about making deliberate decisions and understanding why you are making them. 

For kicks, I'm including my specs for my most recent order below: 

Fabric: Thomas Mason Light Pink Oxford

Collar Style: Soft Ivy Button Down

Cuff Style: Soft One Button

Pocket: One Chest Pocket

Placket: Soft Front Placket (although I'm very tempted to try out the popover)

Yoke: Split Yoke

Buttons: Tall Mother of Pearl

Monogram: Back of Collar in Burgundy

As this is my first purchase from Proper Cloth, I'll be reviewing the shirt once it arrives, so keep your eyes open!

Dive Back In

After taking a look through my closet, I felt inspired to do a post on the value of doing just that. More specifically, the value of looking back through the things you tossed aside as useless just a few seasons (or years) ago. Especially for those of us relatively new to the game, you'd be surprised how many things you thought were 'uncool' a year ago that could fit your wardrobe perfectly now. This goes doubly for those of us recently out of school, as we grow from campus clothes to business wear, clothes that were too formal or fuddy-duddy to wear at a tailgate might be perfect for the office.

Here are a few examples from my own closet:

Adidas Indoor Soccer Shoes:

Sorry, I'm not sure what the actual name of these shoes is (I'm sure I could find it pretty easily, but it's besides the point). I actually got these back in high school at the very tail end of my soccer playing days. In the rapid-fire changing ways of teen style, I was suddenly off the athletic wagon and onto the streetwear wagon, and I think these shoes got one wear before they got thrown in the back of my closet. Then, last time I went to visit my parents, I was digging around for something or other in my old room and came across these beauties. With today's aesthetic of a slim, sharp sneaker to go with a pair of Chinos (I could even see these with a summer suit), along with some bright-but-not-obtrusive (and pretty American) colors, I threw these shoes right back into my rotation, and a week hasn't gone by that these haven't gotten at least a little bit of wear.

Pants:
In general, I struggled for a while before I found the right fit of dress/chino pants for myself. When I was in the very early stages of my sartorial reinvention, I only got it half right. I went slim right off the bat, but was so reluctant to give up the 'pooling at the ankles' or 'stacked' look that I was comfortable with in college. As a result, some trousers with the perfect minimal break were unduly retired as 'too short.' When my girlfriend and I moved this fall, I came across a pile of these, and was surprised at how wonderfully some of these pants actually did fit, now that I know exactly how they should fit. Boom, 2-3 more pairs of pants, back in the pot.

Tailoring! It's Real!

Even as I dove into my style education, I was slow on the uptake when it came to alterations and tailoring. It's just something I'd never done before. Not only was I lacking in the kind of confidence that can only come from experience, I was intimidated by the whole process (especially the oft-lacking pricing structures....big pet peeve of mine is not knowing what I'm spending way before I commit to spending it). Now that I've dabbled and experimented, I'm again amazed by how many great pieces of clothing I have that I was ready to toss in the 'Goodwill' pile just because the trouser legs were a bit long, or the body of the shirt a bit wide. Now, I have a pile of old clothing, and I try to take one piece in each paycheck for an alteration. This way, in a few months I'll have a completely refreshed wardrobe without having to buy a single brand-new piece (although I'm sure I will anyway, because that's what style bloggers do).

Repurposing:

My final suggestion is to take one last look at anything you're getting rid of and consider how you could repurpose it into something else to get just a bit more use out of it. I'm not full of life-hacks to give you here, but I can tell you that you probably don't have to worry about buying another pocket square for the rest of your life. A widely touted trick is to take an old tie (or steal one from your dad), maybe one that's too wide, or has a tear or stain near an end, or is otherwise unusable but largely in good shape. Chop off the ends as you see fit, fold that bad boy up, and voila, instant pocket square. I've recently started doing this with my shirts as well. I have a bunch of old shirts from high school that have great patterns but have ugly branding (ahem, American Eagle) or I have outgrown to the point that no alterations can help. Instead of tossing them, I'm destroying them! Ha, well, I'm cutting a square out of the back of each one. At some point, I'll learn how to use a sewing machine and 'hem' the edges (or whatever you would call it in this case), but in the meantime I simply utilize a fold that keeps the edges hidden. Just like that, I've cleared out a bunch of unused shirts and expanded my pocket square collection exponentially at the same time.

Brand Spotlight - Hucklebury

First off, sorry for the radio silence coming from the blog for the past week or so, I was off gallivanting around Colorado with my girlfriend (and, more importantly, celebrating her brother's wedding). But now I'm back! While I was out of town, I was introduced to the co-founder of Hucklebury, Parag, through a mutual friend. Hucklebury has a Kickstarter campaign running and they reached out to me for help spreading the word. I've heard of Hucklebury before, and they have a solid reputation in the menswear industry. We e-mailed back and forth over the weekend and chatted on the phone yesterday, and while I haven't gotten to try one of their shirts out yet, I'm loving what I'm hearing and am happy to help him get the word out.

Parag is going to be sending me a sample shirt in the next few weeks so that I can do an in-person review, but these Kickstarter campaigns don't wait around, so I'm throwing a introduction your way now. Before even having a shirt in hand, there's a lot to love about Hucklebury:

1. All of their products are 100% Made-In-America. For me, this is a huge deal. Not only does this almost always mean higher quality standards, but in today's day and age the availability of 'ethical' businesses and brands, there isn't really an excuse for failing to be an 'ethical' shopper.
   
   Buying goods made in the U.S. ensures that proper labor conditions are met and pumps money back into our own economy (which is good for all of us). This isn't always easy for companies to do, and usually comes with a higher overhead attached, so it's always impressive to see companies taking the made-in-America route instead of opting for an easier, cheaper alternative.


2. Similar to brands like Frank and Oak, Everlane, Gustin and Warby Parker, Hucklebury has adopted a top-to-bottom business model that cuts out all of the middlemen traditionally associated with apparel retail. If you ask me, this business model is the future of the fashion world. With the Internet at your fingertips the need for brick-and-mortar stores has become largely irrelevant, and by avoiding all of those in-between steps, Hucklebury is able to offer their high quality (made-in-America) goods at a helluva good price. They explain it best themselves via the following infographic:



3. And that's the real kicker. Hucklebury is all about cutting the cost to the consumer without cutting the quality of their goods. Their shirts are made from the finest Egyptian cotton, which usually is only available at price points that make the every-day man cringe. Not here. Only $78 gets you a shirt that promises to be as soft and comfortable as the sheets at the Ritz. It's practices like this that make the recent revival of men's style possible by making these high-quality, stylish clothes available to guys who aren't driving around in a Benz (yep, name-dropping like Hov).


4. Lastly, some Kickstarter campaigns seem like a thrown-together-at-the-last-minute whim of their creators, but Parag (co-founder of Hucklebury) has grown up in the biz, and I think it's safe to say this isn't just a passing interest or a brand that's going to fall off your radar anytime soon.


5. Icing on the cake: The shirts are darn stylish, with a wide variety of ginghams (my favorite) and stripes in your choice of spread or button-down collars.

   

   Great fall colors! 

   Each shirt is only $78 (as mentioned), is accompanied by a 365 day guaranty. This is pretty unheard of in the apparel industry, and not only shows their dedication to customer satisfaction, but also their confidence in the quality of their products. On top of all that, each shirt purchased through the Kickstarter campaign comes with a $20 subscription to our friends, The Tie Society (check out our review of their awesome services here).
   

Now, of course, without a shirt in hand, I can't personally say anything about the fit or feel of the shirts, but the word on the net is extremely positive. Sabir Peele of Men's Style Pro gives a rave review on his blog, and my friends in the industry have been just as enthusiastic. I personally can't wait to get my hands on one myself, at which point I'll give you the full low-down. So go ahead, get in on the ground floor, support a responsible company and get your hands on a great shirt! Check out their Kickstarter for all the info I didn't give, as well as options to contribute.

Fashion Faux Pas - Untucked Shirts

Returning once again to the ‘Fashion Faux Pas’ series, today we are addressing untucked button-up shirts. Fellas, once you’ve graduated from college, this is almost always a no-no. And it’s one that I notice all the time, all over the place. No joke, the biggest one that bothers me is Ted, from How I Met Your Mother. There’s a lot more wrong with this outfit (mostly those ridiculous-looking jeans), but he is constantly walking around in a baggy shirt, untucked, under a blazer, and it makes him look like he’s playing dress-up in his dads clothing.

So, here are the rules when it comes to button-up shirts: Button-up shirts come in two basic cuts when it comes to the bottom of the shirt. Sport shirts are cut straight across the bottom, while dress-shirts are rounded to give the shirt ‘tails.’ Both can be worn tucked, both can be worn with a tie, but obviously dress shirts tend to be the more formal of the two. I’d say it’s a pretty safe bet that you should always tuck in a dress shirt. The extreme exception is some oxfords, chambrays, or more casual shirts, as well as some short-sleeved dress shirts, but even with these you want to be careful. The deciding factor here is going to be the length of the shirt. The best rule of thumb is to check how far the front hem of your shirt falls below your waistline. If it is less than halfway down your zipper, you can consider leaving it untucked. Anything that falls more than halfway down your fly will just look sloppy untucked. Sport shirts tend to give you a little more leeway, because a well fitted sport shirt, with a straight hem, will usually fall less than halfway down your fly. Dress shirts on the other hand are purposefully cut longer in order to keep them from coming untucked while you are wearing them.

Finally, if you are wearing a blazer, ALWAYS tuck your shirt in. Otherwise you get, at best, this 90’s professor look that is just…well….frumpy. Think Ross from mid-run Friends. At the very least, it’s extremely difficult to put together a physically flattering, slim fitted outfit without tucking yourself in.

Note: This obviously only applies to button-up shirts. Polos are hit-or-miss, but please don’t ever tuck in your T-shirt. We shouldn’t even have to say that.

Photo courtesy of fanpop.com

Modern Tailor - MTM Shirt Review

I recently decided to finally take the dive into custom clothing and began by ordering my first Made-To-Measure (MTM) shirt from Modern Tailor. There are a slew of custom/MTM shirting brands available online, but my tight wallet led me to choose Modern Tailor for their ‘first-timer’ deal and the number of positive revies I had heard for their lower-end shirts. In the end I was able to walk away with a great white dress shirt for about $40, all shipping and extras included. You might be able to do even better if you use this referral link for $20 off your first purchase: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

Quality:

I’m sure I’ve mentioned before that I am no professional tailor, so my comments here are from a completely novice standpoint. That said, the construction and quality of my shirt is not disappointing in the slightest. The fabric itself, a single ply cotton, is as light as would be expected from a lower-range option, but honestly, it’s going to be perfect for this (hopefully) coming warm spring days. It’s thin without being sheer, and doesn’t have any of the stiff, wrinkly, uncomfortable (almost like plastic) feeling that some cheap dress shirts seem to have. Everything feels solidly constructed. I can’t speak too much for stitching, etc., but all the seams are neat and straight and I have yet to find any blemishes, in the fabric or the needlework. The collar, which I chose to have a ‘common’ softness, is structured enough to stand up on it’s own, without a tie, but soft enough to be comfortable and forgiving, and Modern Tailor offers bother stiffer and softer collar options, if that’s what floats your boat. I also opted up for the thick Mother of Pearl buttons, which came through sturdy and clean. Overall, the quality definitely met my expectations.

I will say that I wish Modern Tailor had included metal collar stays instead of the flimsy plastic ones that the shirt came with. So far I’ve only gotten metal stays from Charles Tyrwhitt and Express, and I have a bad tendencey to lose and/or ruin plastic stays pretty quickly. Minor complaint.

Fit:

Quality of fabric and needlework is great and all, but you really buy a custom shirt in order to insure a perfect fit, so this was the aspect I focused most heavily on. While I can’t quite say that the shirt fit like a glove, it was pretty damn close. Modern Tailor offers a few different options for taking measurements. If you have a shirt that fits you perfectly, you can either measure that shirt, or send it to their tailors (although I’m not sure how shipping works in these cases). You can also choose to measure yourself, and Modern Tailor will then adapt those measurements into actual shirting measurements when constructing your shirt. I opted for this last option, as the whole reason I wanted a custom shirt was because none of my shirts fit perfectly. I was a little intimidated by taking on what I saw as a task for a professional, but the instructions provided made it pretty easy to get measurements I was confident with (my girlfriend helped out, it’s definitely useful, if not necessary, to have a second pair of hands). I did tweak a few measurements before submitting. I have broad shoulders and a very slim waist, and my biggest problem with shirting is that it tends to be far too wide around the beltline, leading to that dreaded ‘billowing’ effect when tucked in. I double-checked some other reviews online and made sure that Modern Tailor doesn’t cut especially close in the waist, and then knocked my own measurement down an inch. I also leaned on the slimmer side around the armholes, but not by much. For everything else, I faithfully followed directions and stuck with those results.

I gotta say, the fit is pretty impressive. The waist fits perfectly, which was my biggest concern. The cuffs seem a little loose at first, but now, only halfway through the day, I’ve gotten used to them and actually think they just fit better than what I’ve become accustomed to. The armholes are high and tight without being constricting (aiding to what I find to me a slimmer, more modern look). The darting in the back of the shirt let’s it follow the contours of my back, rather than hanging loosely (TSB Men has a great article on the glories of darts, check it out). The length of the shirt is just right as well (although I did pull this measurement from a shirt of mine, so I would expect this to be pretty accurate), and stays tucked in without bunching up under my pantaloons. Check out the picture below, and forgive any wrinkling (this was after a long day at the office):

Now, I said close to perfect earlier, implying that some things were a bit off. I’ll add a disclaimer here: from what I’ve read (and reasoned with mine own mind grapes), your first MTM will inevitably need a little bit of tweaking, as you get used to your own preferences and how that translates to tailor (and specifically your tailor of choice) measurements. With that in mind, for my next shirt I will probably cut an inch off of the chest, and will slim down the arms as well. Now, I do think it’s important to note that neither of these areas don’t fit on my shirt. My personal preferences just call for a bit slimmer of a cut than what Modern Tailor appears to make standard. I’m still happily wearing the shirt as is at this very moment.

Turnaround:

I was pretty impressed with the turnaround time here. My order was ready to ship a mere 6 days after I ordered it. At this point, they even sent me a picture of the finished product, and while my choices were pretty standard, this could be great if you are picking a bolder pattern or customization options.

Modern Tailor does their actually tailoring in China, so the product shipped out of Shanghai, and I figured I was in for a pretty lengthy shipping time, but Modern Tailor provided me with a tracking number that allowed me to track the package internationally and it only took 3-4 more days before I had the shirt in my hand. Voila. Well under their quoted turnaroud time.

Customizations:

Here is a list of all the options I selected when making my shirt (all personal preference).

1. Collar: Medium Cutaway Collar, Common Softness, Removable Collar Stays


2. Cut Corner Cuffs, One Button


3. Thick Mother of Pearl Buttons (+$5.00, well worth it)


4. No Pocket or Monogram


5. Standard Placket


6. Slim Fit, with Darts


7. I also sent in a picture of myself for the tailors to use to aproximate body type (not sure how much of a difference it made, but why not, right?)

Overall, I’m pretty happy with my first foray into custom clothing, and have the feeling it’s going to be my next addiction. Options can get pricey at any online retailer, but take advantage of any ‘1st time user’ discounts you can find, and, once again, use this referral link to get $20 off your first order from Modern Tailor: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

Fabric of the Season - Chambray

At some point I’d love to have an ‘expert’ help us write a post about all the different fabric choices that are out there, from twill to poplin to oxford cloth, but for now I’m going to focus on one fabric that I’ve been addicted to lately and is definitely my go-to this spring; chambray.

Chambray is a relatively lightweight fabric woven with a white weft and colored warp (weft refers to the horizontal threads that are woven through the vertical warp), which results in a texture very similar to denim.

Traditionally, chambray is a blue color, once again much like denim, but these days you can find it in a variety of colors (I have blue, dark grey, and red). Personally, I love this fabric in the spring because I think it’s a great way to incorporate lighter spring colors like a dusty red or faded blue without sacrificing any manly ruggedness or falling into Easter bunny territory. Like linen and other more textured fabrics, it even looks good slightly rumpled.

I also love chambray because of how well it works in both formal and casual wear. Originally, denim and, likewise, chambray, were reserved for casual clothing and work-wear, but recently with the so-called ‘rules’ of men’s fashion being challenged and the boundaries stretched, it is more and more acceptable to wear chambray formally. If you want to dress up a chambray shirt, look for something with a narrower collar and no chest pockets. In addition to now being used for dress shirts and even blazers, there are a lot of chambray ties and pocket squares that look great paired with other cross-genre fabrics and patterns like gingham shirts or tweed jackets.

On top of all that, the stuff is damn comfortable! Think the ruggedness of denim with a more lightweight, soft cotton feel. Perfect for those spring days that aren’t too cold or too hot. My favorite chambray shirts both come from Frank and Oak and go for a mere $45 (sign up for Frank and Oak with my referral link for $5 off), but I’ve seen some strong offerings from J. Crew, like the red shirt shown below, among others, and I’d expect to see chambray options popping up at most menswear brands this spring.