Mad for Plaid

Plaid is everywhere these days, doubly so now that we are fully into the winter season. I love the pattern, for the visual variety it lends an outfit, for the rugged warmth it exudes, but it's really easy to lose the sharp edge of your style and to slide quickly into lumberjack territory.

So how do you rock seasonal plaid without looking like you're about to build a log cabin while hunting a grizzly bear? Here are a few ways to keep your plaid city-appropriate:

1) Dress it Up:

Plaid is a pretty inherently casual pattern, especially when made from a thicker flannel cloth, as is wont in the colder months. However, this doesn't mean your whole outfit has to be way laid-back to match. Try keeping a bit of formality by wearing a plaid button-down under a blazer. I suggest a thicker wool fabric for the blazer to match the heft of the plaid. A tie and a pocket square seal the deal with a look that is definitely business casual, rather than redneck.

2) Don't Wear Jeans:

This is one of your easiest options. Instead of reaching for your favorite beat-up blue jeans, go for something a bit sharper, like some dark chinos. Those black and red buffalo check flannels that are so appealing look great with a pair of black chinos, while some of your lighter options will pair well with khaki's, or even some winter whites. If you do go for jeans, opt for a dark, dressier pair rather than your beat-up 501's.

3) Pay Attention To Fit:

This doesn't mean only wear super slim fitting plaids, but to know the fit of what you're wearing and treat it appropriately. A heavy, looser flannel shirt that you can pick up at your local thrift store will look way better used as a light jacket (say, over a sharp white tee-shirt, or even a turtleneck sweater) instead of trying to pull it off as a dress shirt. 

4) Tuck It In:

This is a huge one. I'm definitely not saying that there is no style or class in an un-tucked casual shirt, but the loose plaid shirt is definitely a cabin-ready look. You can feel much more appropriately dressed hitting the city with your tails tucked. Again, though, pay attention to fit, and avoid billowing at the waist or sleeves. 

Modern Tailor - MTM Shirt Review

I recently decided to finally take the dive into custom clothing and began by ordering my first Made-To-Measure (MTM) shirt from Modern Tailor. There are a slew of custom/MTM shirting brands available online, but my tight wallet led me to choose Modern Tailor for their ‘first-timer’ deal and the number of positive revies I had heard for their lower-end shirts. In the end I was able to walk away with a great white dress shirt for about $40, all shipping and extras included. You might be able to do even better if you use this referral link for $20 off your first purchase: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

Quality:

I’m sure I’ve mentioned before that I am no professional tailor, so my comments here are from a completely novice standpoint. That said, the construction and quality of my shirt is not disappointing in the slightest. The fabric itself, a single ply cotton, is as light as would be expected from a lower-range option, but honestly, it’s going to be perfect for this (hopefully) coming warm spring days. It’s thin without being sheer, and doesn’t have any of the stiff, wrinkly, uncomfortable (almost like plastic) feeling that some cheap dress shirts seem to have. Everything feels solidly constructed. I can’t speak too much for stitching, etc., but all the seams are neat and straight and I have yet to find any blemishes, in the fabric or the needlework. The collar, which I chose to have a ‘common’ softness, is structured enough to stand up on it’s own, without a tie, but soft enough to be comfortable and forgiving, and Modern Tailor offers bother stiffer and softer collar options, if that’s what floats your boat. I also opted up for the thick Mother of Pearl buttons, which came through sturdy and clean. Overall, the quality definitely met my expectations.

I will say that I wish Modern Tailor had included metal collar stays instead of the flimsy plastic ones that the shirt came with. So far I’ve only gotten metal stays from Charles Tyrwhitt and Express, and I have a bad tendencey to lose and/or ruin plastic stays pretty quickly. Minor complaint.

Fit:

Quality of fabric and needlework is great and all, but you really buy a custom shirt in order to insure a perfect fit, so this was the aspect I focused most heavily on. While I can’t quite say that the shirt fit like a glove, it was pretty damn close. Modern Tailor offers a few different options for taking measurements. If you have a shirt that fits you perfectly, you can either measure that shirt, or send it to their tailors (although I’m not sure how shipping works in these cases). You can also choose to measure yourself, and Modern Tailor will then adapt those measurements into actual shirting measurements when constructing your shirt. I opted for this last option, as the whole reason I wanted a custom shirt was because none of my shirts fit perfectly. I was a little intimidated by taking on what I saw as a task for a professional, but the instructions provided made it pretty easy to get measurements I was confident with (my girlfriend helped out, it’s definitely useful, if not necessary, to have a second pair of hands). I did tweak a few measurements before submitting. I have broad shoulders and a very slim waist, and my biggest problem with shirting is that it tends to be far too wide around the beltline, leading to that dreaded ‘billowing’ effect when tucked in. I double-checked some other reviews online and made sure that Modern Tailor doesn’t cut especially close in the waist, and then knocked my own measurement down an inch. I also leaned on the slimmer side around the armholes, but not by much. For everything else, I faithfully followed directions and stuck with those results.

I gotta say, the fit is pretty impressive. The waist fits perfectly, which was my biggest concern. The cuffs seem a little loose at first, but now, only halfway through the day, I’ve gotten used to them and actually think they just fit better than what I’ve become accustomed to. The armholes are high and tight without being constricting (aiding to what I find to me a slimmer, more modern look). The darting in the back of the shirt let’s it follow the contours of my back, rather than hanging loosely (TSB Men has a great article on the glories of darts, check it out). The length of the shirt is just right as well (although I did pull this measurement from a shirt of mine, so I would expect this to be pretty accurate), and stays tucked in without bunching up under my pantaloons. Check out the picture below, and forgive any wrinkling (this was after a long day at the office):

Now, I said close to perfect earlier, implying that some things were a bit off. I’ll add a disclaimer here: from what I’ve read (and reasoned with mine own mind grapes), your first MTM will inevitably need a little bit of tweaking, as you get used to your own preferences and how that translates to tailor (and specifically your tailor of choice) measurements. With that in mind, for my next shirt I will probably cut an inch off of the chest, and will slim down the arms as well. Now, I do think it’s important to note that neither of these areas don’t fit on my shirt. My personal preferences just call for a bit slimmer of a cut than what Modern Tailor appears to make standard. I’m still happily wearing the shirt as is at this very moment.

Turnaround:

I was pretty impressed with the turnaround time here. My order was ready to ship a mere 6 days after I ordered it. At this point, they even sent me a picture of the finished product, and while my choices were pretty standard, this could be great if you are picking a bolder pattern or customization options.

Modern Tailor does their actually tailoring in China, so the product shipped out of Shanghai, and I figured I was in for a pretty lengthy shipping time, but Modern Tailor provided me with a tracking number that allowed me to track the package internationally and it only took 3-4 more days before I had the shirt in my hand. Voila. Well under their quoted turnaroud time.

Customizations:

Here is a list of all the options I selected when making my shirt (all personal preference).

1. Collar: Medium Cutaway Collar, Common Softness, Removable Collar Stays


2. Cut Corner Cuffs, One Button


3. Thick Mother of Pearl Buttons (+$5.00, well worth it)


4. No Pocket or Monogram


5. Standard Placket


6. Slim Fit, with Darts


7. I also sent in a picture of myself for the tailors to use to aproximate body type (not sure how much of a difference it made, but why not, right?)

Overall, I’m pretty happy with my first foray into custom clothing, and have the feeling it’s going to be my next addiction. Options can get pricey at any online retailer, but take advantage of any ‘1st time user’ discounts you can find, and, once again, use this referral link to get $20 off your first order from Modern Tailor: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

Frank and Oak Reviewed

Before I Begin: 

If this post inspires anyone to give Frank and Oak a try, feel free to use my referral link: http://vnlink.co/S5B7dYb (you’ll get $25 credit for signing up, can’t complain about that).

EDIT: We recently provided an update to this review, 'Frank and Oak - Reviewed and Revisited,' which can be found here. Enjoy!

As promised, here is Wide Eyes, Tight Wallet’s first full-length brand review. More to come in the future!

Brand Background:

Frank and Oak is an online-only men’s clothing start-up service based out of Montreal, Canada. Their goal has been to offer stylish, modern, quality clothing at an affordable price by effectively cutting out the middle man. Instead of having a designer sell clothing designs to manufacturer, who then sells to a retailer (at a profit), who then sells to the consumer (at a bigger profit, those bastards), Frank and Oak does the whole process in house. The result (originally) was that nothing they sold cost over $50. More and more they have been surpassing that price point, but with the goal of offering some higher end clothing (their United Tailor collection is pretty damn sharp), and a wider range of articles (i.e. blazers, jackets, etc.). However, thus far their pricing has remained very manageable on all fronts. Frank and Oak are proud to make every effort toward sustainability, including using recycled goods for packaging and keeping a small selection to avoid overstock and wasted materials. They are also proud of their diverse backgrounds, stating on their website “We are you. We are designers, web geeks, architects and artists with a simple goal: to create high quality clothing and accessories and share them at a remarkable price.” Frank and Oak actually just celebrated their one-year anniversary this past month, so they are still just a bunch of young pups and I’m sure will continue to develop as time goes on.

In addition to standard online shopping, Frank and Oak offers a monthly trunk or ‘crate’ service called ‘The Hunt Club,’ of which I am a proud member. Honestly, this service is great. They do a much better job of explaining it on their ‘How It Works’ section, but here’s the gist: Every month you get to pick out three items, which they ship to you free of charge. You get to try on the clothes, decide what you want to keep, and send the rest back, at which point they charge you for the selections you’ve made. Not only does this give you a great, commitment-free way to try new clothes, they throw free shipping on all orders (crate and otherwise), which makes the whole thing worth it regardless of the crate in my book. I love free shipping. Some people worry with these kinds of services that you will be duped into buying things without realizing it, but Frank and Oak is great at keeping you on top of selection and return deadlines through great e-mail contact, and in the few cases where I’ve had issues with timing they’ve been more than forgiving. Final kicker? Hunt Club members receive 8% of every order back in store credit.

What I’ve Bought:

• Light Blue Oxford-Cloth-Button-Down (OCBD)


• Red Chambray Dress Shirt


• Charcoal Chambray Button-Down


• Charcoal Taylor Trousers


• Brown Wool Blazer


• Cotton Tie

Quality:

I have to preface this section by admitting that I am no master clothier. I don’t know the difference between types of stitches, and I couldn’t pick out a fused collar at a glance, but I do think I recognize a quality garment. In my honest opinion, Frank and Oak really delivers when it comes to quality for the price you are paying. Everything I’ve bought just feels sturdy. Well-made. Like it won’t fall apart after a few washes, or split at the seams in the middle of my workday (I’ve had this happen with a pair of H&M pants and will never go back there again). The OCBD seems especially rugged, and is the one garment I’ve bought that seems borderline coarse (personally, I’m not complaining, I love the shirt, but if you want something lightweight, look elsewhere. Then again, if you want something lightweight, and OCBD probably isn’t your best bet to begin with). While this isn’t bespoke, hand sewn, custom-cut clothing, it beats the hell out of anything your going to get for the same price at a mass-produced joint like Express. I’d put fabric quality on-par with what I’ve purchased from J. Crew, but the prices are much more reasonable (and I’m so much more of a fan of Frank and Oak’s fit).

Customer Service:

As of yet, I haven’t had any big issues to test out Frank and Oak’s customer service, but what interactions I have had have yielded no complaints on my end. The only mistake they made was they (once) sent me the wrong shirt as part of a Hunt Club crate selection. They offered to extend my selection deadline and send the correct shirt, but it was honestly something I was just trying on for fun, wasn’t going to buy, and liked the shirt they sent me instead anyway. I’ve contacted them a few times with minor questions about sizing and they have always been quick and friendly with their responses.

Also (and I’m not sure if this belongs in the ‘Customer Service’ section of the review), but they do go beyond just selling clothing, which is fun. Their main page every month includes a section called ‘The Edit’ which is along the lines of a monthly blog and includes interviews with a variety of people (from other players in the menswear world to musicians), lookbooks for some of that month’s selection, videos, and more. They also host a weekly #NecktieFriday competition on Twitter and Instagram that I have a blast participating in every week (in fact, I love it so much I already wrote about it)!

These guys are so great, in honor of their anniversary they made every competitor from that week a winner (which is how I scored that great cotton tie seen above).

What’s To Love:

The first thing to love about Frank and Oak is their price/quality ratio. By cutting out the middleman and encompassing the design, manufacture, and distribution of their products, they are able to offer high quality clothing at incredible prices. Blazers are the only thing that will cost you more than $50, and even those top out at little over $100. Even better, price aside I would still take one of their $45 shirts over a $75 shirt from J. Crew. As this blog focuses a lot on how to improve your wardrobe without breaking the bank (hence the Tight Wallets moniker), this is a huge plus in my book.

The biggest reason I personally love Frank and Oak is that everything fits me. Perfectly. I have never had this happen at any clothing company, and in fact I usually struggle to find brands where anything fits me great right off the rack. The dress shirts especially fit like a glove. I’m a pretty skinny guy and often suffer from shirts ballooning at the waist and through the arms (even from mid-high range brands like J. Crew and Ben Sherman), but I have none of those problems here. Everything seems very true-to-size and is cut with a modern, slim fit that is hard to find from any similar-priced store.

Additionally, the Hunt Club service is a huge benefit for a guy like me. I love shopping online (almost obsessively), but have a hard time committing to buying anything due to my afore-mentioned issues with fit from most brands. Being able to try things on risk-free gives me so much more confidence when making purchases and makes my shopping experience so much more stress-free.

Lastly, some might complain about the limited selection, but I think it’s another great part of what sets Frank and Oak aside. Sometimes, I find shopping from stores like J. Crew or other big-name brands to be overwhelming. With pages and pages of options in every category, it can be a chore to browse through a selection of pants just to decide there isn’t anything that happens to catch your eye. With the smaller, rotating selection that Frank and Oak offers, it is so much easier to take in the entire selection and make a quick decision about whether or not I want to make any purchases. Nine times out of ten there are still plenty of things I want, and that one time that there isn’t, I know it’s a mere 30 days until I have a whole new pool of items to pick from.

What’s Not To Love:

I personally have very few complaints when it comes to Frank and Oak. I have read that some customers have been displeased with variations in fit between similar garments. I will say that I have noticed this, but only very slightly. For example, my small OCBD fits a little bit looser than either of my small chambray shirts. However, the difference is small enough that I’ve still been very happy with the fit on all three shirts. I will be keeping an eye out for this issue as I continue to order, and if my opinion here changes I’ll be sure to mention it.

Another issue mentioned by other customers and noticed by myself is processing time. This seems (to me) to especially be an issue at the beginning of each month as Hunt Club orders are processed. Sometimes it has taken up to a week between submitting my selection and getting a shipment notice. However, I am very forgiving in this area. I think the benefits of the Hunt Club service more than make up for any wait time issues, plus I am inclined to be pretty forgiving as I keep in mind that this is a small startup with quickly growing clientele, and that’s half of what I love about them.

A final aspect that I have seen other customers take issue with is the fact that you have to sign up in order to browse the selection. If you ask me, this is a really silly gripe. There is no obligation in signing up, they don’t spam your e-mail address, and you can cancel at any point. So really, all you have to complain about is that hard, hard work you are going to put in typing your e-mail address and contact information. I know this can be exhausting, but I promise, it will be worth it.

Beyond that, I’ve noticed a few loose stitches here and there, but always in hard to see places and never to an extent that I feel significantly affects the integrity of any given item.

Luck Day! Bonus Section:

Conveniently, today Frank and Oak released their March selection, so I’ll let you all know what I’m ordering in my crate (whenever it comes I’ll give an update on how everything turns out):

Definitely getting the Newport Chinos in Olive. I checked with their customer service, and this is indeed more of a khaki color than olive (my new Olive Chukkas are more of a dark green). They did say it is a darker khaki, so hopefully it will be what I’m looking for. I’ve been needing a pair of khakis for way too long and have been waiting every month for Frank and Oak to offer their Chinos in the color I want.

I’m also going to get the Valmont Shirt in Pearl. This is another one I’ve trying to find for a while - a nice, great-fitting white shirt. It’s one of the most versatile items a guy can own, but while I do have a white shirt, I’m not a fan of the fabric or the way it fits, so I never wear it.

Lastly I want to try the Crosstown Bomber in Khaki. Honestly, I probably won’t keep this one. It’s a little out of my price range and not exactly what I’m looking for, but I’ve started keeping an eye out for a lighter spring jacket that I can wear with my office clothing, so I figured I’d at least give this a try.

Honestly, my selection is a little boring this month. I usually take advantage of the Hunt Club to try on things I wouldn’t normally wear. However, there are just those standards that I’ve been hunting for that have finally popped up, so I can’t resist and will have a lot more flexibility in my choices next month. I will say I was very tempted by the color selection for the Taylor trousers. I love my pair in charcoal and would have really liked some more colors, but the Chinos came in top priority. I also wish there had been a blazer that caught my eye, but not this month! Hopefully they have some nice lightweight ones coming up soon for the summer. They also (as always) have a great selection of ties and pocket squares, but I already have a go-to source for those that is a tad easier on the wallet (I’ll fill you in later).

Let me know what you think of my choices! I’m not ordering until tonight (gotta let the the girlfriend peruse the selection first), so you might be able to convince me to get something else (if you really care about what I’m wearing that much, sheesh. Just kidding, I love suggestions).

Anyway, sign up here (http://vnlink.co/SK2IDBd) and shop away! I really don’t think you’ll be disappointed. Has anyone else tried Frank and Oak? What did you think?

A Fashion Fundamental

I’ve been writing a lot about this blog without actually blogging enough, so here’s a real post for ya! Exciting, right? Well this is a simple but crucial one, and I’m sharing what I have learned to be the most important aspect of looking good: fit.

You will read this on a million different blogs, but that doesn’t make it any less significant or true. The way your clothes fit goes ten times farther to making  you look good than the clothes themselves. A $100 suit that is well fitted can look ten times better than a $5,000 suit that is not. Likewise goes for pretty much any type of clothing you can buy.

So if this is already spread far and wide on the menswear blogging network, why am I bothering to write it again? Well you might say it has something to do with my lack of creativity, but I say hell no! It’s because this fundamental of dressing is Just. That. Important.

Also, up next I will begin actually reviewing some brands and clothing that I have tried and tested, and I want everyone to understand that, because of this strong belief, being able to find a good fit is immensely important to me in rating and reviewing products. My favorite brands are my favorite brands mainly because they fit so damn good.

So what makes good fit? I will go into greater depth and specificity in future articles, but there are a few pretty solid ‘rules’ to finding clothes that fit according to modern as well as classic style. Here are a few big ones:

Dress Shirts:

• Honestly, I think the most important thing to looking like you fit in your clothes is to buy shirts that fit your waist (or get them taken in). The billowy tuck makes anyone look uncomfortable at best, and like they are playing dress-up in their daddy’s clothes at the worst. Look for fitted or slim fit shirts, as most regular fit clothing is made for fat people. Tailors and seamstresses can also easily add darts to the back of a shirt to get a slimmer fit.


• Shoulder seams should rest on the corner of your shoulders. This, and neck width are the two main measurements a tailor won’t be able to change.


• You should be able to fit one to two (but no more) fingers between the collar of the shirt and your neck without cutting off circulation.


• Sleeves should hit the corner of your wrist and stick out one inch past your blazer or jacket sleeves.

Pants:

• These days, most style pros are calling for little to no break. This means that the hem of the pants should just rest on your shoes, or touch only enough to cause a slight fold in the lower leg. Don’t forget to consider whether or not you will want to roll or cuff the leg when considering length.


• Personally, I think slim-straight is the best cut, but this can vary greatly depending on your body type. In general, you want something that you can fit into comfortably, but doesn’t hang off your body and pool at your knees and shoes. Don’t be afraid of a little taper in the lower leg. 

Blazers:

• The most important thing for fit on a blazer is the shoulder. Put the blazer on, stand next to a wall, and slowly lean into it. If your shoulder hits the wall before the corner seam of the blazer, it is too small. Likewise if the corner seam/pad of the blazer hits first, it is too large. Also, the modern trend is for a ‘deconstructed build,’ which translates to small to non-existen shoulder pads (sorry folks, looking like a box is out).


• Pay attention to the armholes. High cut armholes will not only allow for greater mobility, but will also make you look less like a penguin.


• The sleeves of your jacket should be cut at the wrist bone, one inch above your shirt sleeve.


• Sides of the jacket should taper in to your body, but this is a quick fix for a tailor, and shouldn’t necessarily be a deal-breaker in the shop.


• I forget this one a lot: make sure the collar of the blazer rests snugly against the collar of your dress shirt, and avoid that dreaded collar gap. Sometimes it is fixable, but it is often a tough task for a tailor (oooh alliteration)!


• Lastly, you should be able to comfortably curl your hands under the bottom hem of the blazer (while wearing it of course).

I’m really not an expert, I don’t go to a tailor all the time, but these are the rules I’ve compiled from reading everything (honestly, I read everything) from GQ to websites of bespoke tailors to fashion blogs, and so far they’ve steered me right every time. Having clothes that fit you correctly makes an unbelievable difference. I’m not going to give the life coach bullshit speech, but honestly, you will feel more relaxed, less concerned about your shit bunching up or getting creased or untucked, yadda yadda, and you’ll look ten times better (and know it).

As this blog develops I will at some point go into more detail for each item of clothing regarding fit as well as other aspects like material and color, and PHOTOS!