Outfit Post - Dressing Up and Dressing Down

My girlfriend and I have been taking advantage of a service called HowAboutWe ever since I bought her a subscription as a Christmas present. I may do a longer post detailing the awesome perks, since we've been loving it so much, but the short story is that they curate events (or for the couples version, which we signed up for, 'dates'), that can include discounted or exclusive activities, hook you up with a reservation, and voila, next thing you know you're in a new brandy distillery in Chicago watching apples being smashed(?) by a man on a bicycle.

Really, it's been a great way to get us out of the house on the weekend when the weather says to just stay on your couch! Not only does it give my girlfriend and I even more quality time to spend with each other, it also has given me lots of opportunities to exercise my wardrobe by freeing me from my weekday business casual without taking me the whole way down to lounge-on-the-couch casual.

For example, we were back at it again this weekend with a quick trip down to NOSH food festival/farmers market, and I ended up rocking a great balance between the sharp style I like to exude and the more rustic, well, farmers-market-friendly options:

To start off, I love to wear a shirt and tie, and blazer when I can. However, going into this, I knew that coming in a pressed white shirt, silk tie, jacket and chinos probably wouldn't only not fit the crowd, but would also end up getting something spilled on it. So instead, I made some conscious choices to dress down my standard 'fit to something that would work great in the circumstances.

First, I went with generally rougher and more casual fabrics. Instead of a poplin or white oxford shirt, I rocked a plaid, heavier cotton (almost flannel) shirt. For the tie, I went with cotton knit instead of a shinier silk knit, and for the blazer I left my more constructed and sleek options at home, instead grabbing an unlined, soft-shouldered wool twill.

I even made the same general effect with my shoes...these boots are pretty sharp, definitely no shit-kickers, but the suede leather, as opposed to polished, takes things farther into casual territory, as do the lugged soles, which also came in handy walking home through the slushy mess that spring is bringing us.

On the other hand, a few details kept me feeling like I was still on the top of my game. The shirt, for example, while full of more casual details, is actually one of my custom shirts, so the fit is perfect (which will instantly have you feeling like you look 100%). I kept the tie clip, partly because I didn't want my tie falling in my food, and again, because it keeps a sharper edge to the whole look. Last, while I did pick jeans (like a farmer, eh?), I kept them slim and dark to keep some sharp lines from top to bottom. I also decided to go ahead and rock a pocket square (always a bit of a dandy move), but even kept that on the more casual end of the spectrum by picking a cotton, 'bandana' square in a spring-appropriate green that would compliment but not match the green tones in my shirt.

Last, I maintained the balance by throwing a casual waxed cotton jacket on top. No sense in building that careful balance, only to cover it all with a more formal overcoat. Lucky me, the olive color of my jacket worked great with the blues, greens, and greys making up the outfit so far.

Outfit Details:
Blazer - Frank and Oak
Plaid Shirt - Custom by Modern Tailor
Cotton Knit Tie - J.Crew
Cotton Pocket Square - J.Crew
Dark Blue Jeans - Levi's 513
Suede Boots - Polo Ralph Lauren
Waxed Jacket - Frank and Oak

WIWT - 7/4/2013 - HAPPY AMERICA!

I've mentioned how excited I get about dressing for holidays before, and I'll say it again now. These special occasions are where my sartorial nerd really lets loose, and I've been planning my 4th of July ensemble for days.

First off, of course I have to wear red white and blue. It would just be unpatriotic to do otherwise (I'm just kidding, kind of, but it was a good place to start). When I wrote about my St. Patrick's Day outfit, I stressed the importance of being festive without looking clownish. Once again, your safest bet is to make sure you aren't wearing something you would be embarrassed to wear any other day of the year (weather aside).

My strategy was to keep most of my get-up classic and simple, and to add the festive touches in the accessories, and I stuck with the everlasting classic prep combo of khaki chinos, white shirt, and navy blazer.

Here are those festive touches I was talking about. I actually bought these shoes way back in high school, wore them once and shoved them in closet in favor of skate shoes as I grew out of my indoor soccer era. Let this serve as a great reminder to shop your own closet every so often. Since I've reinstated these bad boys back into my footwear rotation they've become one of my favorite pairs of casual shoes, and were pretty damn perfect for the holiday.

 

I paired them with a similar blue and red tie, which was actually a big hit around Christmas as well. That's one of the things I love about knit ties; they are ridiculously versatile. This one looked just as good under a chunky shawl-neck sweater as it does here with a cotton blazer and lightweight white shirt.

Other small notes: Kept it 'sockless' as it's finally warm again here in Chicago (the weather this summer has been bizarre, it was only 60 degrees on Tuesday). Also, I was hoping to be able to incorporate a belt with a bit more color and pizzazz, but once again, time constraints kept me to my current wardrobe. I actually really like this belt, which is a recent purchase from Levi's. Levi's are always a go-to for jeans, but they make some great accessories too and have awesome sales on the reg.

Happy America everyone!

The Details:
Cotton/Linen Blazer by Uniqlo
Silk Knit Tie by The Tie Bar
Linen Pocket Square via eBay
Custom MTM Shirt by Modern Tailor
Belt by Levis
Chinos by J. Crew Factory
Shoes by Adidas
Watch by FormFunctionForm

WIWT - 5/16/2013 (a.k.a. Trying Something New)

So, for this look, I was busting out a bunch of brand new summer-wear items that have been recent additions to my wardrobe. This outfit is in no way 100% ideal, which is actually why I wanted to share it. First, the outfit:

I just bought this lightweight, cotton/linen blend blazer from Uniqlo after I visited their store in NYC and got to try a few things on for a sizing guide. Now that I know what fits, I will definitely be ordering more. This jacket is going to be my savior this summer. I've become so accustomed to wearing a blazer over the past several months, and don't really want to break the habit just because it's summer. However, even in my light wool blazer, the full lining has had me sweating even on just warm days. This unlined jacket, however, is light and airy enough to keep me cool even as we hit those Chicago heat waves.

Under the jacket I wore my custom Modern Tailor shirt (review here). As I've been wearing it more, and going back and forth more between this custom shirt and my other off-the-rack shirts, I've been appreciating the incredible fit more and more, and am definitely springing for a few more MTM pieces in the near future. Once again, feel free to use my Modern Tailor referral code for a sweet $20 off your purchase.

I also went with this dark red (I think they called in 'wine') knit tie from The Tie Bar. My love of knit ties just keeps growing and growing. Not only were they perfect in the winter as something with a little more heft, the looser weave also works great in the summer with your lighter clothes. This wine color too was not something I expected to go with everything, but somehow it really does. I find myself reaching for this tie multiple times a week, and I have a collection of options that's not to be sneezed at. Silver tie bar finishes the picture.

I also just bought these blue lived-in chino's from Gap. Somehow, between some crazy in store sale prices and discounts from signing up for Gap Card, I got these and one other pair for a grand total of less than $25.00. I practically danced home. I'm not a die-hard Gap fan, but their chinos are so damn comfortable. I grabbed these light blue ones to put a little spring color into my business-casual attire without being too in-your-face with go-to-hell pants.

I finished off the outfit with my new blue suede shoes by Bass, courtesy of an eBay steal. I've worn these once or twice casually, and wanted to try to work them into a work outfit and though this was a good outfit to experiment with. Here is where I wish I had made a few changes. I do love the shoes, and think they go well with the rest of the ensemble. However, the white/off-white laces lend to a more casual look. I think next time I'll try out some colored laces if I want to add a little more pop, or something darker, maybe even black, for something a little more muted.

Also, I had hoped that my sock choice would contrast with the shoes and tie in with the pocket square (a grey chambray number from Frank and Oak). Unfortunately, they kind of blend with the shoes in color, and I like my socks to really pop, so I'll try something else next time.

And there's my message is for this post. It's perfectly fine to make mistakes. Especially when trying out new things (I'm still working on my summer attire, as well as colored pants at work, for example). If you find something you think you like, just go ahead and try it! Unless you're a celebrity or a model or I don't even know what, the people in your day-to-day life shouldn't give you grief over some uncoordinated socks, or a non-matching tie. On the other hand, recognize what does and doesn't work, see the changes you want to make, and apply them as you pick out your clothing combinations in the future. It's all a learning process, and it's not fun unless you go outside your comfort zone from time to time. Also worth noting, while I messed around with colors in my pants, shoes and socks, I kept the rest of the outfit gloriously simple. Can't ever go wrong with a white shirt and navy blazer, and like I said, that dark red tie goes with everything.

Modern Tailor - MTM Shirt Review

I recently decided to finally take the dive into custom clothing and began by ordering my first Made-To-Measure (MTM) shirt from Modern Tailor. There are a slew of custom/MTM shirting brands available online, but my tight wallet led me to choose Modern Tailor for their ‘first-timer’ deal and the number of positive revies I had heard for their lower-end shirts. In the end I was able to walk away with a great white dress shirt for about $40, all shipping and extras included. You might be able to do even better if you use this referral link for $20 off your first purchase: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX

Quality:

I’m sure I’ve mentioned before that I am no professional tailor, so my comments here are from a completely novice standpoint. That said, the construction and quality of my shirt is not disappointing in the slightest. The fabric itself, a single ply cotton, is as light as would be expected from a lower-range option, but honestly, it’s going to be perfect for this (hopefully) coming warm spring days. It’s thin without being sheer, and doesn’t have any of the stiff, wrinkly, uncomfortable (almost like plastic) feeling that some cheap dress shirts seem to have. Everything feels solidly constructed. I can’t speak too much for stitching, etc., but all the seams are neat and straight and I have yet to find any blemishes, in the fabric or the needlework. The collar, which I chose to have a ‘common’ softness, is structured enough to stand up on it’s own, without a tie, but soft enough to be comfortable and forgiving, and Modern Tailor offers bother stiffer and softer collar options, if that’s what floats your boat. I also opted up for the thick Mother of Pearl buttons, which came through sturdy and clean. Overall, the quality definitely met my expectations.

I will say that I wish Modern Tailor had included metal collar stays instead of the flimsy plastic ones that the shirt came with. So far I’ve only gotten metal stays from Charles Tyrwhitt and Express, and I have a bad tendencey to lose and/or ruin plastic stays pretty quickly. Minor complaint.

Fit:

Quality of fabric and needlework is great and all, but you really buy a custom shirt in order to insure a perfect fit, so this was the aspect I focused most heavily on. While I can’t quite say that the shirt fit like a glove, it was pretty damn close. Modern Tailor offers a few different options for taking measurements. If you have a shirt that fits you perfectly, you can either measure that shirt, or send it to their tailors (although I’m not sure how shipping works in these cases). You can also choose to measure yourself, and Modern Tailor will then adapt those measurements into actual shirting measurements when constructing your shirt. I opted for this last option, as the whole reason I wanted a custom shirt was because none of my shirts fit perfectly. I was a little intimidated by taking on what I saw as a task for a professional, but the instructions provided made it pretty easy to get measurements I was confident with (my girlfriend helped out, it’s definitely useful, if not necessary, to have a second pair of hands). I did tweak a few measurements before submitting. I have broad shoulders and a very slim waist, and my biggest problem with shirting is that it tends to be far too wide around the beltline, leading to that dreaded ‘billowing’ effect when tucked in. I double-checked some other reviews online and made sure that Modern Tailor doesn’t cut especially close in the waist, and then knocked my own measurement down an inch. I also leaned on the slimmer side around the armholes, but not by much. For everything else, I faithfully followed directions and stuck with those results.

I gotta say, the fit is pretty impressive. The waist fits perfectly, which was my biggest concern. The cuffs seem a little loose at first, but now, only halfway through the day, I’ve gotten used to them and actually think they just fit better than what I’ve become accustomed to. The armholes are high and tight without being constricting (aiding to what I find to me a slimmer, more modern look). The darting in the back of the shirt let’s it follow the contours of my back, rather than hanging loosely (TSB Men has a great article on the glories of darts, check it out). The length of the shirt is just right as well (although I did pull this measurement from a shirt of mine, so I would expect this to be pretty accurate), and stays tucked in without bunching up under my pantaloons. Check out the picture below, and forgive any wrinkling (this was after a long day at the office):

Now, I said close to perfect earlier, implying that some things were a bit off. I’ll add a disclaimer here: from what I’ve read (and reasoned with mine own mind grapes), your first MTM will inevitably need a little bit of tweaking, as you get used to your own preferences and how that translates to tailor (and specifically your tailor of choice) measurements. With that in mind, for my next shirt I will probably cut an inch off of the chest, and will slim down the arms as well. Now, I do think it’s important to note that neither of these areas don’t fit on my shirt. My personal preferences just call for a bit slimmer of a cut than what Modern Tailor appears to make standard. I’m still happily wearing the shirt as is at this very moment.

Turnaround:

I was pretty impressed with the turnaround time here. My order was ready to ship a mere 6 days after I ordered it. At this point, they even sent me a picture of the finished product, and while my choices were pretty standard, this could be great if you are picking a bolder pattern or customization options.

Modern Tailor does their actually tailoring in China, so the product shipped out of Shanghai, and I figured I was in for a pretty lengthy shipping time, but Modern Tailor provided me with a tracking number that allowed me to track the package internationally and it only took 3-4 more days before I had the shirt in my hand. Voila. Well under their quoted turnaroud time.

Customizations:

Here is a list of all the options I selected when making my shirt (all personal preference).

1. Collar: Medium Cutaway Collar, Common Softness, Removable Collar Stays


2. Cut Corner Cuffs, One Button


3. Thick Mother of Pearl Buttons (+$5.00, well worth it)


4. No Pocket or Monogram


5. Standard Placket


6. Slim Fit, with Darts


7. I also sent in a picture of myself for the tailors to use to aproximate body type (not sure how much of a difference it made, but why not, right?)

Overall, I’m pretty happy with my first foray into custom clothing, and have the feeling it’s going to be my next addiction. Options can get pricey at any online retailer, but take advantage of any ‘1st time user’ discounts you can find, and, once again, use this referral link to get $20 off your first order from Modern Tailor: http://moderntailor.refr.cc/Z9GC8NX