Wearing Orange (and Other 'Uncooperative' Colors)

Struggling today...not enough sleep, early afternoon migraine, it's been rough. Anyway, keeping it short this Wednesday (and pulling pics from Instagram), we're taking a quick look at how to rock the color orange. Earlier this year, when all the designers were busting out their new collections at the fashion weeks, the menswear world was all about orange as the color of the season, which is challenging, because it’s also inherently bright and bold, and therefore kind of hard to work into an everyday outfit. Fortunately, there are some moves to try that will allow you to incorporate the color in your wardrobe without taking any huge style risks.

Editors Note: Since deciding to write this article, I've noted that this trend didn't necessarily take off, and orange isn't the ubiquitous tone of the season that I came to expect - maybe it is yet to come, but regardless, you can adapt these same tips to other bright colors that you may be tempted to experiment with.

The first route we can suggest is to just tone down the brightness and boldness that make orange a tricky color to work with from the get-go. With a lot of other bright colors, we often suggest washing them out or opting for more faded or pastel versions, but with orange we suggest going the opposite direction, instead looking for darker, over-saturated, 'burnt' shades. That rusty orange color actually works a lot like a lighter shade of brown, and plays great with blues (lucky for me, since my wardrobe has a lot of blue in it already). You can get some great chinos or shorts in this color (try these from Bonobos, on sale for just $38 - and $25 off with our referral link - or these from Topman for something a little less bright), but my go-to move has been this vintage tie that I scored off eBay:

Got this bad boy on eBay for something like $3.00. A new favorite!

You can get a similar look with this number from The Tie Bar (at only $15, it makes a relatively low-risk trend-testing option).

Knitted Silk Tie in Rust | The Tie Bar - $15

Our other recommendation is to use orange in very small splashes, and mate it with similar, but more commonplace and classic colors. My girlfriend gifted me a bright orange tie clip last fall, and I've been loving to play it off a slim tan leather belt and tan suede boots:

Not the best pictures, but you get the gist.

The leathers are both bright in their own way, and when worn with a monochrome blue ensemble, they inject this punch of color at regular intervals - shoes, waist, torso. Among other options, I could see this working quite well with red and oxblood or burgundy.

So there you have it - my words of wisdom for the day before I go nurse this clinging headache - migraines, man. 

How do you all rock bright, 'uncooperative' colors? Do you have any orange in your wardrobe? What's your favorite way to work it into an outfit? Hit up the comments section!

How To Test a New Trend

Menswear folk preach timeless style all the time, and you'll read on many blogs tons of advice and comments instructing you to avoid trends. In general, I tend to agree - to an extent. Yes, timeless pieces are just that - timeless - and as such, will probably be the more long-lasting versatile pieces in your wardrobe, and as such, are the ones worth investing in. However, trends shouldn't be ruled out entirely. For one thing, some of those trends do end up graduating to timeless status. If we never tried anything new, we'd still be wearing togas, or caveman skins. Even classic style evolves, and that can't happen without people trying new things. Also, timeless can get boring...sometimes you need to jump off a cliff and do something exciting, new, and fun.

So how do you go about testing a new trend? My recommendation is to dip your toes in the water before you dive in (although I did just make a reference to jumping off a cliff...). The trick is to find a way to try out a new style without investing yourself so heavily that if, as many trends do, yours falls to the wayside in a few months, you're out a chunk of change and stuck with some expensive and now useless crap.

With that in mind, you'll want to treat these trends exactly the opposite of how you treat timeless pieces. Instead of focusing on construction and quality, and saving your money to invest in a truly worthwhile piece, look instead for quick fixes - inexpensive options that embody the heart of the trend but don't require you to hand over a month's pay. Skip all the painstaking research, go with your gut, but go cheap.

For example, I've really been digging this microtrend lately of stark black and white outfits - especially in more casual terms. It's definitely a more street-wear friendly look, which isn't one I usually go for (tending instead to stick to a nice preppy/prepster balance). I'm thinking black jeans, some black leather trainers, a bright white tee, and a black bomber jacket. Something like one of these looks:

John Legend (photo via Créme de la Créme) | Anthony Urbano (photo via Closet Freaks)         

I've been so tempted to try it out, but I'm almost certain it's not going to be a strong player in my 'fit rotation, and might even just be relegated to a few wears. Therefore, I'm not even starting to look at premium denim, designer sneakers, or classic bomber jackets (I would spend some $$ on a tee, but only because everyone can use a white tee, and I'll rock that part for as long as it lasts). 

Instead, I'm going as cheap as possible. I just grabbed a pair of lightly used Levi's on eBay for around $12 (shipping included). If it weren't for those, I'd pick up this pair from H&M (a store I usually skip). I found a bomber jacket at Forever 21 (where I also wouldn't normally even consider shopping) in an especially fashion-forward mixed-media for only $30 . I actually already have a white tee that I copped from Bonobos, on sale for around $10, but you can score one for the same price at Uniqlo year-round. Even the trainers, I'm grabbing for just $45 at Vans. Voila, an entire (on trend) outfit for well under $100 (which wouldn't even cover the shoes for a 'timeless' ensemble):

This way, no matter the outcome of my little experiment, I'm only out a small amount of money. If I like the look, I can take some more time and spend some more money to get pieces really worth being proud of, and swap them out for my cheapskate options over time. If I'm not so fond of the look, like I said, little skin off my back (way less than if I went high-end on everything right off the bat). 

Know Your Measurements!

Sorry for the radio silence the past few days, but I was happily caught up in a fantastic Valentine's Day weekend with my gal...we cooked a great dinner on Friday (crab cakes, corn pudding and fresh tomato/cucumber salad...mmmmm), went out dancing with friends on Saturday, and caught a fantastic sketch comedy show at Second City last night. But never fear, we're back! Unfortunately, Chicago is still cold and snowy and grey, so I haven't had many opportunities for good photo shoots. The silver lining is, that gives me some great chances to take a break from personal style and get into some meatier discussions, which I have enjoyed. 

On that note: one of the most important pieces of advice I will give any stylish gent working on expanding their wardrobe, and especially if you are trying to take advantage of thrift shops or the virtual treasure trove that is eBay, is to know your measurements.

Purchasing used clothing and accessories can be an incredible opportunity to expand your personal selection without spending an arm and a leg, but it's also a risky venture. Not only are sales often final, with no option for returns, but you'll also find that a lot of pieces will already have been tailored - for someone else's body.

When it comes to eBay, most sellers will help you avoid sizing mistakes by providing very precise and specific measurements. If they don't, any decent seller will happily provide them upon request, and if they won't, you probably don't want to buy from them to begin with.

At a thrift or consignment shop, the measurements won't be as readily available, and trying things on of course is always an option. However, the key to successful thrift shopping is being ready to dig through innumerable pieces of crap to find that one treasure, and trying everything on in the process can be exhausting. My trick is to mark some of my more important measurements (i.e. shoulder width or sleeve length) on a measuring tape and bring it along with me. I'll still try something on before I buy it, but I can weed through a lot of the excess without even taking an item off the rack.

Even when buying new, having your measurements on hand is a huge benefit, especially shopping online. Again, it's not being able to try things on that make online shopping risky, but all clothiers will provide sizing charts, and if there's a measurement they don't provide, they should be able to relay it if you ask. I still always lean towards companies that offer free returns, but being able to compare their measurements with your own will take a lot of the risk out of the process.

Besides my tape measure, I also keep an index card in my wallet with all my important measurements, as well as my preferred sizes from my favorite brands (especially shoes). The more measurements you can include, the better prepared you'll be. On one side, I list the measurements of my best-fitting clothing...mainly my custom shirts and suits, so that when I see something with similar dimensions I can grab it in a flash. On the other, I put my body measurements, which come in handy more often when consulting sizing charts from online retailers. By including as much as possible, and carrying the card everywhere, I'm always prepared to...um...spend more money...(is it payday yet?!).

eBay Risks (a.k.a. Who Wants To Buy These Shoes?)

Welp, this one's going to be a quickie, it's been a super busy week for me. You folks may have seen my feature on Effortless Gent, and I've been continuing to do some work helping Barron out. He's launching his Cladright program soon and I encourage you all to check it out. Barron's a great source of information and inspiration, and I'm really excited to see how Cladright develops. Learn more about Cladright here, and be sure to read up at Effortless Gent as well.

I've also had the pleasure of joining the team at Peter Field, a menswear startup here in Chicago. I'll be sharing more information on Peter Field soon, but in the meantime, check out the website and the current collection of awesome custom ties (sourced and handmade in the good old U.S. of A. That's right, responsible business practices). Check me out in a Peter Field tie here, no joke, they rock, and there's lots more to come. My recommendation is to snag a wool tie in time to be seasonally fashionable as fall finally sets in.

OK, on to the meat of this post. I laud the glories of shopping eBay for shoes all the time, and have plenty examples of incredible finds that have worked out impressively well for me. However, all of those happy endings should come with the disclaimer that, while often rewarding, shopping on eBay is always at least a bit of a gamble. Case in point: I have a navy suit on the way from Dragon Inside, and really wanted a pair of oxblood dress shoes to wear with it. After a couple days of scouring eBay, I found a hella-nice looking pair of Johnston & Murphy cap-toes with a Buy-It-Now price just below $40, shipping included.

Apologies for the poor lighting.

Lately, I've had a few pairs of 10D shoes that felt a bit wide, and these puppies came in 10B (narrow), so I hoped they'd be spot on. Woops.

Five days later, my feet were killing me as I tried to go a day squeezed into these shoes. The fact that the shoes themselves were in damn fine condition, and exactly the style I wanted, just made them hurt that much more. Sad face. The moral of the story here, however, is not to scare you away from eBay. It's just a reminder to shop smart. While these shoes aren't going to work out for me, and I can't return them, I didn't save up or spend a paycheck to get them. Worst case, I'm out $40. Even better, I bought a popular brand and a popular style that I knew I could sell back if I needed to, which is exactly what I'm going to do.

You can look for these on eBay in about a week, but I'll give you all the chance to scoop them up without getting in a bidding war. Like I said, size 10 B, and definitely narrow, but in damn good shape. They retail for $175 (see them new here) and look like they've only been worn for about a week. Interested? Shoot me an e-mail, I'll part with these for just $30, including shipping. No bites in a week and they'll go up on eBay. See more pictures below:

Uppers in great condition, minor creasing, no scuffs or blemishes.

Minor wear to soles and heels, still have lots of life.

Inners in pretty perfect condition. From the Johnston & Murphy Optima line.

Size 10 B (narrow).

Sayonara!

WIWT - 7/4/2013 - HAPPY AMERICA!

I've mentioned how excited I get about dressing for holidays before, and I'll say it again now. These special occasions are where my sartorial nerd really lets loose, and I've been planning my 4th of July ensemble for days.

First off, of course I have to wear red white and blue. It would just be unpatriotic to do otherwise (I'm just kidding, kind of, but it was a good place to start). When I wrote about my St. Patrick's Day outfit, I stressed the importance of being festive without looking clownish. Once again, your safest bet is to make sure you aren't wearing something you would be embarrassed to wear any other day of the year (weather aside).

My strategy was to keep most of my get-up classic and simple, and to add the festive touches in the accessories, and I stuck with the everlasting classic prep combo of khaki chinos, white shirt, and navy blazer.

Here are those festive touches I was talking about. I actually bought these shoes way back in high school, wore them once and shoved them in closet in favor of skate shoes as I grew out of my indoor soccer era. Let this serve as a great reminder to shop your own closet every so often. Since I've reinstated these bad boys back into my footwear rotation they've become one of my favorite pairs of casual shoes, and were pretty damn perfect for the holiday.

 

I paired them with a similar blue and red tie, which was actually a big hit around Christmas as well. That's one of the things I love about knit ties; they are ridiculously versatile. This one looked just as good under a chunky shawl-neck sweater as it does here with a cotton blazer and lightweight white shirt.

Other small notes: Kept it 'sockless' as it's finally warm again here in Chicago (the weather this summer has been bizarre, it was only 60 degrees on Tuesday). Also, I was hoping to be able to incorporate a belt with a bit more color and pizzazz, but once again, time constraints kept me to my current wardrobe. I actually really like this belt, which is a recent purchase from Levi's. Levi's are always a go-to for jeans, but they make some great accessories too and have awesome sales on the reg.

Happy America everyone!

The Details:
Cotton/Linen Blazer by Uniqlo
Silk Knit Tie by The Tie Bar
Linen Pocket Square via eBay
Custom MTM Shirt by Modern Tailor
Belt by Levis
Chinos by J. Crew Factory
Shoes by Adidas
Watch by FormFunctionForm

WIWT - 5/16/2013 (a.k.a. Trying Something New)

So, for this look, I was busting out a bunch of brand new summer-wear items that have been recent additions to my wardrobe. This outfit is in no way 100% ideal, which is actually why I wanted to share it. First, the outfit:

I just bought this lightweight, cotton/linen blend blazer from Uniqlo after I visited their store in NYC and got to try a few things on for a sizing guide. Now that I know what fits, I will definitely be ordering more. This jacket is going to be my savior this summer. I've become so accustomed to wearing a blazer over the past several months, and don't really want to break the habit just because it's summer. However, even in my light wool blazer, the full lining has had me sweating even on just warm days. This unlined jacket, however, is light and airy enough to keep me cool even as we hit those Chicago heat waves.

Under the jacket I wore my custom Modern Tailor shirt (review here). As I've been wearing it more, and going back and forth more between this custom shirt and my other off-the-rack shirts, I've been appreciating the incredible fit more and more, and am definitely springing for a few more MTM pieces in the near future. Once again, feel free to use my Modern Tailor referral code for a sweet $20 off your purchase.

I also went with this dark red (I think they called in 'wine') knit tie from The Tie Bar. My love of knit ties just keeps growing and growing. Not only were they perfect in the winter as something with a little more heft, the looser weave also works great in the summer with your lighter clothes. This wine color too was not something I expected to go with everything, but somehow it really does. I find myself reaching for this tie multiple times a week, and I have a collection of options that's not to be sneezed at. Silver tie bar finishes the picture.

I also just bought these blue lived-in chino's from Gap. Somehow, between some crazy in store sale prices and discounts from signing up for Gap Card, I got these and one other pair for a grand total of less than $25.00. I practically danced home. I'm not a die-hard Gap fan, but their chinos are so damn comfortable. I grabbed these light blue ones to put a little spring color into my business-casual attire without being too in-your-face with go-to-hell pants.

I finished off the outfit with my new blue suede shoes by Bass, courtesy of an eBay steal. I've worn these once or twice casually, and wanted to try to work them into a work outfit and though this was a good outfit to experiment with. Here is where I wish I had made a few changes. I do love the shoes, and think they go well with the rest of the ensemble. However, the white/off-white laces lend to a more casual look. I think next time I'll try out some colored laces if I want to add a little more pop, or something darker, maybe even black, for something a little more muted.

Also, I had hoped that my sock choice would contrast with the shoes and tie in with the pocket square (a grey chambray number from Frank and Oak). Unfortunately, they kind of blend with the shoes in color, and I like my socks to really pop, so I'll try something else next time.

And there's my message is for this post. It's perfectly fine to make mistakes. Especially when trying out new things (I'm still working on my summer attire, as well as colored pants at work, for example). If you find something you think you like, just go ahead and try it! Unless you're a celebrity or a model or I don't even know what, the people in your day-to-day life shouldn't give you grief over some uncoordinated socks, or a non-matching tie. On the other hand, recognize what does and doesn't work, see the changes you want to make, and apply them as you pick out your clothing combinations in the future. It's all a learning process, and it's not fun unless you go outside your comfort zone from time to time. Also worth noting, while I messed around with colors in my pants, shoes and socks, I kept the rest of the outfit gloriously simple. Can't ever go wrong with a white shirt and navy blazer, and like I said, that dark red tie goes with everything.

As promised, here is a picture of my most recent eBay snag. I got these Clarks Desert Boots for $35.00 plus $12.00 for shipping, and they are in damn near new condition. They guy told me they were only worn once, and I believe him. The only way you’d even notice that is the ever-so-slightest scuffs on the soles. Clarks are a classic and every guy should have a pair. My little bastard pup chewed the hell out of mine a week or so ago and I didn’t hesitate to scope out a new pair. Sorry the picture is so shitty, swear to god this is with the HD setting on. Time to get a real camera.

Shoes Fo' Po' People

A theme of this blog is the recurring problem that as one becomes more enlightened to the ways of looking good, one’s taste in clothes (and then things, and then women….haha) gets more and more expensive. Unfortunately, not all of us have the financial means to keep up with those tastes, which leaves a lot of us with the problem of not being able to afford what we we want, but knowing too much about the alternatives to want to settle.

This post adresses what, to me, provided the biggest gap between want and ability (besides maybe custom/bespoke suits, but I guess I don’t really need one of those at this point in my life): Shoes. It really seemed to me that, unless I was willing to throw down close to $300 on a pair of Allen Edmonds, I was relegated to fake leather, synthetic soles, boxy toes, and every other sign of sub-par footwear. Then, I found eBay.

Ok, that’s a bit overdramatic. I already knew about eBay. But, I had never really tried to use it to buy clothes and shoes. I’m still iffy about buying clothes (too much of a gamble regarding unseen stains, snags, stretches, and, worst of all, smells), but I have found eBay to be a goldmine for finding high quality shoes in good (not new, but good) shape for extremely affordable prices.

My advice before diving in:

1. Know your shoe size: This whole thing really only works if you can confidently bid on a pair of shoes without worrying if they are going to squish your toes. I know I am a size 10 D, and so far have not been let down (size-wise) by anything with those measurements.


2. Stick to leather shoes: This goes back to my aversion to clothes and shoes that smell like other people. Decently cared for leather shoes smell like, well, leather. Running shoes, sneakers, etc., these things tend to smell like sweat. And feet.


3. Know the brands you like: It is way more productive to search by brand than by shoe type. If you search for “Brown Loafers” you will get way too many results and half of those are gonna piece-o-shit shoes. Stick to quality brands, and search using those names. I have a list of brands that I routinely check for on eBay. These are brands I have worn and loved, or are reputable brands that I have seen on other forums with styles that I know I love.


4. Look for damage to the uppers as well as wear to the soles: Damage to the uppers is probably the most important, as it is very hard to repair deep scuffs or scratches. Soles and heels can always be repaired and replaced (as long as they were leather to begin with), but just be sure to factor that cost into your budget if need be.


5. Set yourself a standard price limit, and use the filters: My method is to, every few days, start a search under ‘Men’s Shoes.’ I slap on a price filter and a size filter (I usually run with $50 max, size 10D), and then just start plugging in those aforementioned brands.


6. Lastly, stick to items ending that day: You can find a lot of great deals, but you will also see a lot of great shoes starting at really low prices and then skyrocketing in the last day or two of the auction. You will be disappointed over and over again if you start bidding too early. Look for auctions that are ending soon, or have a Buy-It-Now option (this is just basic eBay shit, so get with it, people!)

Applying those guidelines, I have started to build a hell of a shoe collection. Here are my recent buys:


I scored these nice, Johnston & Murphy wingtip brogues for $35 and free shipping. While Johnston & Murphy is bit below Allen Edmonds as far as quality goes, these shoes came in great condition for $35. The sole is barely scuffed, the heels are only lightly worn, and the leather uppers are in perfect condition. They are a little stiff, but I’m hoping with regular polishing and conditioning they will soften up nicely. These shoes normally run $175 on the Johnston & Murphy website.



I had been really wanting a new pair of brown shoes (mine were, horrifically, a bit square toed), so I went after these bench-made Brooks Brothers cap-toe oxfords and brought em home for just $45 (plus $10 for shipping). These show a little more wear on the soles, but the uppers are in great condition and they are very comfortable. I also love that they work casually and formally equally well.



My favorite shoes are these black, quarter-brogue Allen Edmonds I bought for ONLY $25!!!! I love Allen Edmonds, and tend to use them as a scale against which I measure all other shoe brands (so get used to it). I also love these shoes because they were part of the beginning of my wardrobe upgrade and are my first nice shoes. This was when I broke away from long toed, or square toed, or synthetic, or other crap - shoes and landed with a classy, comfortable (the leather on these is incredibly soft), and versatile pair of dress shoes. Couldn’t. Be. Happier.

Lastly: I JUST (as in just yesterday) received a pair of Original Clark’s Desert Boots via eBay (for a slim $35 + shipping/handling). I haven’t gotten to wear or photograph them yet (with my shitty iPhone camera, I feel like saying ‘photograph them’ is a little misleading, but still…), but I guarantee a full report soon! Shop well, friends.

My Sartorial Introduction (or something less pretentious)

As you will find in subsequent blog posts, I have recently developed a bit of a sartorial passion, if you will. I got a new job at the end of last summer and took it upon myself to incorporate a whole-life upgrade to go along with the career move. A big part of that was trying to dress better, more like a grown up. Not knowing where to start, I began reading GQ and the whole thing kind of developed from there. Since then it’s become a great hobby that, while not gentle on my wallet, should hopefully benefit me for years to come.

Throughout my quest to better my wardrobe, I have come across the incessant issue that I have more expensive taste than I can afford. This probably comes from the fact the I research the bloody hell out of anything I get interested in. Once you know what makes a $150 custom made dress shirt better than the $20 one I snagged at H&M, it’s hard to forget, and it’s hard to settle. Therefore, I have spent a good amount of time trying to reconcile this fact by finding ways to get great clothes without ending up under a mountain of debt.

That in mind, I plan on dedicating a significant chunk of this blog to chronicling my ‘sartorial journey’ if you’ll allow me to sound like a pretentious buffoon for just a moment (I’d also like to throw in the words ‘vestiary’ and ‘sprezzatura’ while I have your permission). Keep in mind that just 6 months ago most of my clothing came from Plato’s closet, and that while I have come a long way, I am in no way an expert. I’m not going to be giving design and fashion tips, or predicting the next big things in menswear. However, I have gotten a pretty strong grasp of the ‘rules,’ and am gaining more and more confidence in finding stylish ways to break those rules. At this point I’m eager to start throwing my ideas out there, to help other people like me ‘find the way’ (pretentious buffoon again, I know), to share useful tidbits, and to get some feedback if anyone wants to give it.

So now I’ll stop rambling and leave this too-long post with a quick short tip:

Buy shoes on eBay! More on this later…[edit: I had some good tips written out here, but tumblr took it upon itself to delete them, so this will come as its own post in the not-too-distant-future. I promise.]