Outfit Post: The Building Blocks

It’s been a while since I’ve thrown up an outfit post, and even longer since I’ve featured a more dressed-up look, so I figured it was about time. However, I’m taking a slightly different approach this time, as I was hoping to focus on and share my usual method for building an outfit.

A lot of guys (including myself, at one point), get to a point where they have the sartorial education/know-how to put together a strong wardrobe of well-fitting, stylish pieces, but struggle to put them together into a coherent outfit. One of the most common questions I see is “where do I start?” With that in mind, here’s how I do it.

I try to start every outfit with one piece. This may be a new article of clothing that I’m really excited to wear or an old one that I’ve been meaning to work back into my rotation. It may be a bold, statement piece, or a neutral base. It might be as front-and-center as a blazer, or as behind-the-scenes as a pair of socks or pocket square. The point is, this piece acts as the foundation for the rest of the building blocks that will come together to form my outfit.

For this look, I started with my blue and off-white plaid blazer from Gagliardi. It’s one of my favorite pieces, from the fit to the construction to the style, but I wear it far less than I would like, simply because the bold pattern makes it trickier to match (and a little less office-friendly). This weekend, I dressed up my off-duty look a bit more than I have been this summer, and decided it would be a good chance to have the freedom to rock this bad boy. So boom, foundation piece and starting point:

From there, every decision comes back to this one piece. You could go any direction, but I went to pants next. While I didn’t have the restrictions of an office dress code to work with, the blazer is still pretty in-your-face, as far as style goes. Therefore, I decided right away to tone down the rest of my pieces. I also wanted to dress down the tailored look a bit, since it was still the weekend. Thus, for pants, the easy choice was a pair of dark blue jeans: a subtle and neutral pair of pants that were casual enough for the occasion but sharp enough for the combination, and in a blue that will play well with the colors in the jacket:

When it came to the shirt, the patterned blazer immediately dictated a solid shirt (or at the very least a very subtle pattern). Beyond that, I took the same mindset as I did with my pants, and picked what I consider to be the shirt equivalent of a pair of crisp blue jeans: a white OCBD. Again, weekend-casual, but fitting to wear with a tailored blazer. Where I played off the darker colors in the blazer when picking the jeans, this time around I brought out the lighter contrasting notes and picked a white shirt over blue:

From there, I just kept up those same themes as I picked out accessories and final touches. A knit cotton tie, a chambray pocket square, a brown belt and blue suede brogues with no-show socks. Each seems like (and is) a pretty straightforward choice, but if you look at the path that took me to each piece, it always starts with the blazer.

Of course, there are numerous other techniques and considerations to take into account: color-matching, pattern-matching, balance, seasonality, the list goes on and on (and some are mentioned throughout this article). However, starting with a foundation piece as we suggest here gives you the palette upon which you apply all of those other principles. It’s in no way the only factor in the equation, but it’s a strong and simple place to start.

Outfit Details:

Gagliardi Plaid Cotton/Wool Blazer
Levi's 513 Blue Jeans
Uniqlo White Slim OCBD
Thrifted Vintage Woven Belt (similar, new)
J.Crew Factory Blue Cotton Knit Tie
Past The Pocket Chambray Pocket Square
Bass Blue Suede Shoes (similar)
PACT No-Show Socks (unseen)

What's your method of choice? Share in the comments below!

A Few Rainy Spring Essentials

We had a bright sunny 50 degree day here in Chicago over the weekend, so I think we can finally say that spring is starting to set in.  Unfortunately, the upcoming weather is likely to not be quite so pleasant. Hopefully it will stay warm, but I'm ready to bet on a lot of rain and overcast skies in the next few weeks. As we get through these transitional days, here are a few essentials to help you stay dry and stylish:

Raincoat:
One of the first things you're going to need in order to maintain a sharp appearance is a waterproof (or at least water resistant) coat. Nothing puts a damper on a great outfit like, well, dampness. Plus, if you let a blazer get soaked in the raid, it will often rumple and bubble as it dries, and will never look the same again. Trends these days have made it perfectly acceptable (encouraged, actually) to wear even a bright parka-style jacket over your sharpest suit. Suit Supply just released this awesome raincoat, and if you have the budget for it, I'd look no further:

Yellow Rain Coat | Suit Supply

Sure, the yellow is bold and will draw attention, but true to form, Suit Supply made a piece of outerwear worth drawing attention to. The silhouette is trim, but built to fit over a suit, and the bright color is tempered by classic details and no wacky bells or whistles.

Understandably, a $300 rain coat is a bit steep for most, but J.Crew offers a surprisingly affordable alternative by Penfield. Added bonus: if the yellow is a bit much for you as well, this guy comes in a more neutral navy blue:

Penfield Gibson Jacket | J.Crew

Rain Boots and 'Drawer' Shoes:
Same lesson goes for your dress shoes. A sure way to kill a nice shine is to step in a few muddy puddles on your morning commute. You can opt for overshoes from a company like SWIMS, but they tend to be as expensive as a pair of shoes on their own. Personally, I just go for another pair of shoes. These Bean boots have been my go-to in the winter snow, and I was smart enough to get the unlined, uninsulated version, so I just use lighter socks and they're perfect for spring rain as well:

Men's Bean Boots | L.L. Bean

I love the northeastern, rugged prep style of Bean boots, but some guys will find them a little too rustic and outdoorsy. Hunter, along with their classic 'Wellies', offers a biker-inspired rain boot that is much more city-oriented:

Men's Shoreditch Moto Boot | Hunter

Of course, either of those options are fine for the commute, but you can't be wearing them with your suit or trousers during a day in the office. That's why I always keep a pair of shoes tucked in a desk drawer (hence, drawer shoes) to swap out after I get to work. The trick is to opt for something as versatile as possible. I usually stick with a pair of burgundy Weejuns loafers by G.H. Bass. They are dressy enough for dress trousers and chinos, but will still fit the bill with a pair of jeans on a casual Friday:

Larson Weejuns | G.H. Bass

Even better, the reddish hue is one of the leathers that (in my opinion, at least), is OK to wear with both brown and black belts alike. Again, versatility is the name of the game, and these keep all my bases covered.

If you don't have a shoe-shine in your office building, just bring these home over the weekends for a quick shine, and you'll be good to go.


Something Bright!
I'm looking at the 10-day forecast for Chicago right now, and the cheeriest day in the lineup is a lonely 'partly sunny' a week away that will probably turn into rain before it even comes. It's easy to get stuck in the greys of early spring, so I like to remind myself that all this rain is just a precursor to bright, sunny weather to come by rocking something bright every so often. If you're feeling truly bold, a pair of go-to-hell pants is just the trick. Chinos from Bonobos can be a bit pricey, but there are always some brighter colors to be found at a great price in their sale section. Right now I found these in what they call a dark teal:

Everglade Chinos | Bonobos

Like I said, this is not the subtlest of moves, but you can temper the look by grounding it with neutral colors up top (like a white shirt and navy tie).

One step down on the boldness-scale would be a brightly patterned shirt. I love this orange gingham from Banana Republic:

Tailored Slim-Fit Non-Iron Gingham Shirt | Banana Republic

Gingham is a great spring pattern to begin with, and I like it because the white checks kind of mute the bright orange, as opposed to something in solid orange. Again, you can tone down the boldness with some neutral slacks (grey or tan would work well), or covering up the color a bit with a blazer or cardigan.

Finally, for a much more subtle injection of color, rock a bright accessory, like some striped socks, a patterned pocket square, or a colorful tie. This time of year, you'll be able to find these things at pretty much any menswear store. Personally, I've had my eye on the knit ties at the Knottery for some time now, and they have some great spring colors available:

Solid Silk Knit Tie | The Knottery

I'm a big navy blue guy, with most of my neckwear being somehow grounded in that color. This brighter blue will play just as nicely with most of my wardrobe, but will add some seasonal punch.

How do you handle the rainy weather of early spring? Tell us in the comments!

Holiday Concert Outfit

First, a quick heads up: what with the holidays coming up on top of an already-busy schedule, we're toning down Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets back to two posts a week for just a week or two. That means look for your weekend Deals and Steals a day early on Thursday!

Anyway, this weekend my girlfriend and I had tickets to see Dawes (one of our favorites) play the WXRT holiday show at the gorgeous Chicago Theater (along with The Head and the Heart). I of course took the opportunity to dress up a little bit, and since it's been so long since I've done a proper outfit post, well, here you go.

I wasn't sure of venue rules regarding cameras, so I left the camera at home and everything here was shot with my trusty iPhone. That in mind, I apologize if any pictures came out sub-par, but I'm sure you'll get over it.

Since this was the holiday concert, I wanted to dress at least a little festively, so I planned my outfit around incorporating some green and red. This turned out to be a perfect opportunity, because I just got this dark green wool blazer from Tailor4Less for an upcoming review (more details to come, but I'll say now I was actually pretty impressed). 

With the green element underway, I had to add a touch of red as well, which came via my go-to dark red/burgundy knit tie by The Tie Bar. With the blazer and tie together, I had my green and red without being too garish or bold. The darker, muted tones, chosen over brighter alternatives, invoke images of a cozy fire-side drink rather than say, drunken TBOX revelry, which suited my tastes and the occasion just fine.

Framed.

The rest of the outfit came together easily. The specs I picked for the blazer nicely blend dressy and casual, with a definitely laid-back fabric, but sleek silhouette with the jetted pockets and peak lapels. I continued this through the rest of the look, holding down the dressier end of things with a white dress shirt and a silver tie clip, as well as my oxblood brogues.

Shined these bad boys up for the night.

However, I maintained the weekend-casual vibe by wearing jeans instead of dress pants, and picking an OCBD over a dressier cavalry twill option.

Of course, being in Chicago, in December, it was a chilly night, and I bundled up with my new awesome Gloverall duffle coat and a wool scarf from Frank & Oak. This coat is freakin' incredible, and goes just as well over a blazer as it does a crew-neck sweatshirt. And it's warm. Boom.

Cheesin' in the cold.

We had an incredible night, the show was awesome, and hey, I made a blog post out of it! Not too shabby for a Sunday night!

The show was our Hanukkah present to each other, well spent.

Dawes, rockin' out.

Outfit Details:

Blazer: MTM via Tailor4Less

Shirt: Uniqlo Slim OCBD

Tie: Burgundy Silk Knit by The Tie Bar

Tie Clip: Brushed Silver by The Tie Bar

Pocket Square (that you can barely see, shit): Stepped Wool by The Tie Bar

Jeans: Levi's 513 Slim Straight

Socks: Mossimo Supply Co. Boot Sock from Target

Shoes: Bostonian Oxblood Wingtips via eBay

Coat: Gloverall Duffle via Gilt.com

Scarf: Wool Scarf by Frank and Oak

WIWT - 10/15/2013 (Putting It All Into Practice)

Remember that lovely post last week about incorporating fall colors into your outfits? Through my work with some other style blogs and my own constant browsing of the menswear universe, I know that folks like to see these tips, rules and other advice actually put to action. With that goal, I picked out my 'casual Monday' (thank you, day-job, for making that a thing) outfit yesterday with my self-prescribed directions in mind.

Remember, we were focusing on two main colors: burgundy (or oxblood, or maroon, or whatever you want to call it), and dark (or forest, or hunter, or whatever you want to call it) green. Remember also that I discussed mixing these colors into your accessories, so that the clothes that you wear all year look like they were picked out just for that season.

Here was my endgame:

Neighbors had some killer Halloween decorations up.

Look familiar at all? It should, it's very close to this outfit, which I featured a few months ago as a spring outfit. And that's what I love about this method of dressing seasonally. Change just a few, inexpensive items and all of the sudden that spring/summer look fits perfectly into the fall/winter palette.

First, I swapped out the fun, polka dot tie from the spring for a burgundy knit tie. Not only is burgundy one of our fall colors, I also think knit ties fit the season incredible well, with a slightly more rustic look.

If you peek below, you'll see that I'm wearing burgundy socks as well. Normally, I don't like wearing completely matching items. However, socks get a bit of a pass, since you don't see them much. Even better, though, are the textural differences between the knit tie and the ribbed dress socks. Nowhere near the identical-tie-and-pocket-square matchy-matchy problems.

The spring post featured some Clarks chukkas as well, which would have been equally appropriate in the fall, but I stuck with my boat shoes because I wanted to illustrate their versatility as well. A lot of people only turn to them as a sockless option in the summer, but I think they look great year-round and fit the rugged/rustic look of this outfit perfectly (and show a little sock at the same time).

OK, so all good on the burgundy front. How about some green? I was happy to snag this camo pocket square from the Peter Field studio, and I think it balances the rich reds of the burgundy pieces with some more down-to-earth coloring. The camo trend is a highly disputed one, and one that I'm not 100% on, but I do like small touches of the pattern, as I mentioned last week. I think the pocket square is the perfect amount of camo...enough to be noticed but not enough to be gauche. You can pick one up for yourself over at the Peter Field website, or, if you're in Chicago, swing by the studio and meet Nick (founder) and maybe catch me there as well.

The shirt is a chambray number from Frank and Oak, and I see chambray as another great year-round fabric. This particular shirt is a little thicker, so once again it works really well for these color, between-season days. On top of that, the light green hit that mint motif that was so popular last spring, but still plays great with more earthy greens that are 'in' this fall.

The weather today probably would have allowed for a wool blazer, but I'm wearing the hell out of this cotton one while I still can (weather-wise, mainly, but I'm also noticing that it's starting to wear thin, which is what you get from a $60 blazer). I also think the camo square may have been a little too camouflaged in with a brown wool blazer, and this way it has a bit more visual pop to it.

Notice that the 'staples' of this outfit remained exactly the same across the two seasons. Of course, a nice pair of dark blue jeans looks good any time of year, but I think they lend themselves best to the in-between-times, before it's too hot for heavy denim in the summer or cold enough for thick flannels and tweeds in the winter. Easy choice.

Has anyone taken my advice from last week and worked these colors into their own outfits? I'd love to hear about it, or see some pictures! Share in the comments below, or shoot me an e-mail at WideEyesTightWallets@gmail.com.

The Details:
Cotton/Linen Blazer by Uniqlo
Chambray Shirt by Frank and Oak
Silk Knit Tie by The Tie Bar
Tie Bar by The Tie Bar
Pocket Square by Peter Field
Jeans by Hurley (via Nordstrom)
Socks by Frank and Oak
Shoes by Sperry (via Mr. Porter)

How to Wear It: Dots and Checks

We haven't delved too much into pattern matching here on Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets, but there's definitely a science to it. Today I wore this awesome new tie from The Tie Bar, but didn't feel like throwing it on with my normal go-to solid whites or blues. So, this morning was an exercise in pattern matching.

There are two big things to focus on when working with more than one pattern. The first is, make sure it's more than one pattern. In general, don't match dots with dots, or checks with checks, especially if they are literally the same pattern (no matching tie/pocket-square sets, no camouflaging your tie into your shirt).

Second, make sure your two patterns are of a different scale. My combo is a good example. The dots are big and spread out, while the checks are small and thin. If the checks were spaced equally with the dots, and in a bolder line, the patterns would run the risk of blending together. If you do decide to match similar patterns (stripes with stripes, for example), this is doubly important. 

Sartorialists often add the rule that your tie should always be bolder than your shirt, but I tend to throw that one to the wind and just have fun mixing things up. Another one you'll hear a lot is to limit your patterns to two. Essentially, if you already have two patterned pieces, keep the rest of your outfit solid and subtle. I only follow this loosely, breaking the rule especially often for a good pair of fun socks (along with a patterned tie and shirt). Even my two 'rules' are made to be broken (see Zachary Quinto expertly rocking three different stripes as featured on GQ.com), but if you're new to the game, this is a good place to start.

WIWT - 5/16/2013 (a.k.a. Trying Something New)

So, for this look, I was busting out a bunch of brand new summer-wear items that have been recent additions to my wardrobe. This outfit is in no way 100% ideal, which is actually why I wanted to share it. First, the outfit:

I just bought this lightweight, cotton/linen blend blazer from Uniqlo after I visited their store in NYC and got to try a few things on for a sizing guide. Now that I know what fits, I will definitely be ordering more. This jacket is going to be my savior this summer. I've become so accustomed to wearing a blazer over the past several months, and don't really want to break the habit just because it's summer. However, even in my light wool blazer, the full lining has had me sweating even on just warm days. This unlined jacket, however, is light and airy enough to keep me cool even as we hit those Chicago heat waves.

Under the jacket I wore my custom Modern Tailor shirt (review here). As I've been wearing it more, and going back and forth more between this custom shirt and my other off-the-rack shirts, I've been appreciating the incredible fit more and more, and am definitely springing for a few more MTM pieces in the near future. Once again, feel free to use my Modern Tailor referral code for a sweet $20 off your purchase.

I also went with this dark red (I think they called in 'wine') knit tie from The Tie Bar. My love of knit ties just keeps growing and growing. Not only were they perfect in the winter as something with a little more heft, the looser weave also works great in the summer with your lighter clothes. This wine color too was not something I expected to go with everything, but somehow it really does. I find myself reaching for this tie multiple times a week, and I have a collection of options that's not to be sneezed at. Silver tie bar finishes the picture.

I also just bought these blue lived-in chino's from Gap. Somehow, between some crazy in store sale prices and discounts from signing up for Gap Card, I got these and one other pair for a grand total of less than $25.00. I practically danced home. I'm not a die-hard Gap fan, but their chinos are so damn comfortable. I grabbed these light blue ones to put a little spring color into my business-casual attire without being too in-your-face with go-to-hell pants.

I finished off the outfit with my new blue suede shoes by Bass, courtesy of an eBay steal. I've worn these once or twice casually, and wanted to try to work them into a work outfit and though this was a good outfit to experiment with. Here is where I wish I had made a few changes. I do love the shoes, and think they go well with the rest of the ensemble. However, the white/off-white laces lend to a more casual look. I think next time I'll try out some colored laces if I want to add a little more pop, or something darker, maybe even black, for something a little more muted.

Also, I had hoped that my sock choice would contrast with the shoes and tie in with the pocket square (a grey chambray number from Frank and Oak). Unfortunately, they kind of blend with the shoes in color, and I like my socks to really pop, so I'll try something else next time.

And there's my message is for this post. It's perfectly fine to make mistakes. Especially when trying out new things (I'm still working on my summer attire, as well as colored pants at work, for example). If you find something you think you like, just go ahead and try it! Unless you're a celebrity or a model or I don't even know what, the people in your day-to-day life shouldn't give you grief over some uncoordinated socks, or a non-matching tie. On the other hand, recognize what does and doesn't work, see the changes you want to make, and apply them as you pick out your clothing combinations in the future. It's all a learning process, and it's not fun unless you go outside your comfort zone from time to time. Also worth noting, while I messed around with colors in my pants, shoes and socks, I kept the rest of the outfit gloriously simple. Can't ever go wrong with a white shirt and navy blazer, and like I said, that dark red tie goes with everything.

WIWT - 5/3/2013

Just throwing up a quick WIWT post today. It’s been a busy week at my day job (ugh, haha), and I’m working on some formatting improvements to the Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets web site, so be happy with what you get!



This outfit isn’t anything spectacular, but I had a few things I wanted to point out. Mainly I want to bring your attention to the cardigan I picked today. Cardigans are a great layering option to have on hand. Today was an especially chilly day in Chicago (46 degrees in May??? Come on now…) and it was a bit too cold for just a blazer. However, it still wasn’t cold enough to bust out any of my winter gear that I just FINALLY got to pack away. I picked this one up at Gap last fall…I don’t remember the exact price but it was under $30 on sale, and I wear it pretty damn often. This specific cardigan is a little more casual, as the fabric is pretty similar to a sweatshirt or hoodie, so I usually only bust it out on casual Fridays, but I have worn it with dressier looks and it’s held up pretty well even then. Today, it was just right to give me a little more insulation on the way to work, and will be easy to take off if I get too warm in the office.



Well, normally it would be easy to take off, which brings me to point numero dos. Another great use for a cardigan (or any layering option) is that it is a perfect cover-up for my laziness on a rainy Friday morning. I overslept a bit and had to cut my morning routine a little short today, which mean a pretty skimpy job ironing my dress shirt. Wrinkles are one of my biggest OCD pet peeves, and normally this wouldn’t do, but today I just threw on the cardigan and voila - no visible wrinkles! I took it a step further by not giving a damn about getting my tie to the correct length (OK, I was REALLY late, and the bus was about to pull up), and no one is the wiser.



Third, I know this pair of jeans has popped up in pretty much all of my WIWT posts. At first I was about to veto the WIWT post today for that very reason, but I got to thinking that it’s actually a really good point to make. Jeans are one of those items that are really worth finding a pair you love, because you can wear it all the time, with everything.



Dark blue denim is one of the most versatile pieces of clothing out there…dress them up with a blazer for a night out on the town, throw them on with a T-shirt for some backyard grilling, or pop on the cardigan and tie for a day in the office, like I did today.

A few final notes: Still loving the FormFunctionForm watch my girlfriend got me for my birthday…I just need to get a black strap as well so I can wear it with my black shoes/belt combo.



Also, I mentioned these Tod’s loafers I’m wearing in a previous post. They were a steal off of eBay ($50 for a $300-ish pair of shoes), but are just a tad on the large side. I can wear them fine with thicker socks, but if I try them with thinner dress socks or barefoot they flop just a bit too much, so I took advantage of what will probably (hopefully) be one of the last cooler days before summer hits to wear these today.



And that’s all, folks! Have a great weekend, keep your eyes open for the aforementioned site changes, and keep it classy.