'Know Your Fabrics' - Poplin

And we’re back with more knowledge for y’all. This time, the ‘Know Your Fabrics’ series takes a look at Poplin, one of the most common shirting fabrics available.

Like twill, poplin refers to the weave of the fabric - while it was originally woven with specific threads (silk weft and worst yarn warp), those standards have largely been abandoned and the fabric can now be found in a wide variety of materials, from silk to cotton to wool and more (cotton tends to be the most common, and likely our favorite). The weaving pattern, however has remained the same.

Where twill was an ‘offset’ weave that resulted in diagonal ribbing, poplin is a square or even weave, which results in a much smoother, flatter finish. The characteristic pattern of poplin involves a thicker thread running one way (usually the warp), with a thinner thread running the other direction (usually the weft). Compared to broadcloth, a similar square-weave fabric that we will look at more closely in an upcoming post, poplin is normally less densely woven, which makes it softer, but also less crisp and therefore a bit more casual.

As poplin can (and often tends to be) a lighter fabric - plus that looser weave is much more breathable than many other options -  it’s a favorite of many for spring and summer shirting (although thicker poplin shirts can definitely be found and worn year round). A few of Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets’ go-to shirting companies offer a great selection through the warmer months, including Everlane, or Uniqlo for more bargain options.

Slim Fit Poplin Shirt | Everlane

Fine Poplin Long Sleeve Shirt | Uniqlo

Whereas we hunt down twill for any number of garments, our use of poplin is a little more limited to shirting. However, you can find some nice, water-resistant poplin jackets that make a perfect lightweight cover-up come cool spring nights or surprise showers.

Poplin Single Breasted Mac | Topman

Last, we have been seeing some poplin ties popping up - it’s not a huge phenomenon, as the fabric’s inherent thinness often doesn’t allow for much structure in a tie, and therefore often a weak knot, but we’ve seen it done very well by a few tie-makers. The results are definitely more casual, but the lightness of the fabric really hits the spring/summer vibe quite well.

Atkinson Irish Poplin Tie | Sid Mashburn

Slub Poplin Irregular Stripe Tie | The Hill-Side via Hickorees

Do you have any poplin pieces in your rotation? Any favorites? Chime in below.

Bills Khakis - A Quick Update

Today we wanted to just chime in real quick with an update to last week's look at Bills Khakis (and interview with their founder, Bill himself). A few days after posting, we received our samples in the mail and wanted to give you our in-person evaluation!

The folks at Bills were kind enough to send the following items:

Selvedge Cramerton chinos in M2 Standard Fit (Plain Front)

Poplin Shorts in M2 Standard Fit (Plain Front)

Kingston Plaid Shirt from the Tea Label Collection

Newport Stripe Polo

The samples we all sent in size medium and 32 inch waist, and unfortunately I'm a size small and 30 inch waist, but while I was unable to get a good feel for the fit and sizing of the items, I did get to check out the fabric, construction and design. Here are my thoughts:

Selvedge Cramerton Chinos: 
Right off the bat, my first reaction to these is that they feel tough. And in a good way. The fabric isn't rigid or stiff, but it definitely has some heft and feels like it could take a beating. I'm digging these less for the fit (which seems a bit relaxed to me) or super-fashionable styling, but because I really feel like I get a sense of the origins of Bills Khakis - which was originally inspired by a pair of WWII khakis. Unlike a lot of 'fashion' chinos, which you'll be lucky to maintain through a couple-dozen washes, these are a real pair of work pants, more than up for the challenges and wear of ever day life. I also like that they offer them in finished inseams or an unhemmed length if you want to take them straight to the tailor for a perfect fit.

Poplin Shorts: 
For these, I had an almost opposite reaction as to the chinos. Again, the fit seems more relaxed that something I'd prefer, but the fabric is great. Instead of being a standard twill chino, these come in a poplin fabric - interested in the difference? We've got an article on twill in our 'Know Your Fabrics' series and one coming up on Wednesday diving into poplin, but long story short, the poplin is lighter and breezier - perfect for a pair of summer shorts.

Kingston Plaid Shirt:
Of all the items, this is the one I want to keep the most. While they don't advertise it directly as such, the fabric is very lightweight and breathable, and with the bright plaid pattern it immediately brings to mind an outside-the-box madras (read more about madras here). I could see this easily becoming a go-to casual summer shirt, with a distinctive laid-back rumpliness (is that a word?) and actually one of the slimmer fits of the items sent - maybe indicative of their younger Tea Collection line. Thumbs up.

Newport Stripe Polo:
Big fan of this one as well, which comes in a jersey fabric as opposed to the more traditional pique. Honestly, that's what I like most about this - I'm really not a fan of standard pique polos, something about it just says frat boy to me, and this comes as a great alternative. The navy and orange horizontal stripes are a nice stylish touch as well, with a vaguely nautical vibe, interesting colors, but nothing that will stick out like a sore thumb. Again, can't really get a feel for the fit, but it does look to be a little looser, so keep that in mind.

In conclusion, I think the items really emphasize some of the points that were made in last week's article - each has some decidedly modern and stylish aspects (selvedge detail on the chinos, poplin fabric on the shorts, slimmer fit and bright colors on the shirt, and non-traditional fabric on the polo), but hold onto a more classic relaxed style that dads, older men or more conservative dressers will definitely feel comfortable in. The prices are a bit out of Wide Eyes, Tight Wallets ideal budget, but after getting a feel for the products I think I can confidently say you're paying for quality, so if you have the funds, Bills duds would be a great investment.

This was a sponsored review, and the products reviewed were lent to me free of charge. The article, however, remains objective and unbiased and is published without prior editing or review by Bills Khakis. While I love to be given products to review, don't worry, I will never endorse a product I wouldn't wear myself.

All Things Seersucker (in time for National Seersucker Day)

Every so often, I get pitch letters from PR agencies sharing the latest news from whichever brand. Since I try to stick to practical advice and reviews here on the blog, rather than sharing upcoming news that every menswear blogger is getting, I usually read these with some amusement and file them away. However, the most recent letter, sent on behalf of Southern trad clothiers, Haspel, caught me eye.

Apparently, 'National Seersucker Day' used to be a thing - centered on Capitol Hill in Washington D.C., but shared by menswear enthusiasts across the country, the day is a celebration of 'a simpler time when there was more charm and playfulness in Washington Attire.' During the recession, the tradition was ditched (I guess the D.C. vibe just wasn't so charming and playful as our economy tanked), but this year, they're bringing it back.

The day comes on June 11th, so you have plenty of time to stock up on some of the summer fabric. To help you out, we've picked out a few of our favorite options currently available across the web.

First, though, what is seersucker? Until I really became interested in style, it was a word I heard relatively often but really didn't know what it meant. Traditional seersucker is a cotton fabric easily recognized by its light blue and white stripes, but the identity of the fabric goes beyond the pattern to the material itself. Seersucker is uniquely puckered along the lines of the stripes (and these days, you can find alternatives like seersucker gingham, which puckers with the checks, or solid navy seersucker which shares the puckered lines of traditional seersucker, but over a solid background). This kind-of-rumpled effect helps lend the classic southern look - similar to the wrinkles in linen, but also serves a practical purpose by keeping the fabric off of your skin, and therefore allowing better airflow to keep you cool in hot summer weather or southern climates.

A very dapper seersucker getup.
Photo courtesy of Haspel

Seersucker can definitely be seen as a bit of a 'statement' fabric or pattern, bolder than your every-day neutrals. Depending on your own sartorial tenacity, you may embrace the southern-swag full-on, or might just be interested in sprucing up your summer duds with a dash of the fabric. Here are our recommendations, in order from the most subtle to the most bold:

A tie is easily the simplest way to pop some seersucker into your rotation, and you can find them practically anywhere this time of year. The Tie Bar has an absolutely fantastic-looking option for only $15:

Cotton Seersucker in Midnight Navy | The Tie Bar

One of the big risks with seersucker suits and trousers is that you may end up looking too summery and casual for the occasion, which is why I love a pair of seersucker shorts. Shorts are already pretty darn summery and casual, so pretty much any occasion that calls for a pair of shorts will be just fine to wear seersucker. I just got turned onto Jomers, who are selling made-in-NYC shorts for $35. Hot damn, on my shopping list for sure:

Midwoods Shorts in Navy Seersucker | Jomers

While not quite as widespread, seersucker shirts are a great way to stay cool in the summer heat. Plus, the look plays off of more year-round styles, like a striped oxford, or a Bengal-stripe dress shirt, which will keep the piece from standing out like a sore thumb. This number from J.Crew is a bit pricey at full retail, but wait for one of their many sales and snag it at a discount:

Slim Seersucker Shirt | J.Crew

From there, things take a much bolder turn. If you aren't ready for a full seersucker suit, start off with the trousers. It's still a strong style move, but isn't quite was overwhelming as a full seersucker suit can be. Try these Thompson suit pants from J.Crew Factory, currently on sale at $88:

Thompson Suit Pant in Seersucker | J.Crew Factory

Of course, you can always say 'hell-with-it' and go all-out in your southern swag. In order to avoid a frumpy boozehound look (I guess that's the best way to describe it?), do your seersucker suit like any other suit - keep the profile slim, get that bad boy tailored, and rock it with confidence. While still probably not appropriate for a day at the office, a seersucker suit is a great choice for a summer wedding, a cocktail party, a day at the races, and numerous other warm-weather occasions. Here's the jacket to match the above pants (and the whole suit clocks in at around $225, not too shabby at all):

Thompson Suit Jacket in Seersucker | J.Crew Factory

To bring things back to Haspel real quick, while I don't have any personal experience with the brand, they are well known as a staple of southern gent style, and this year are trying to bring some modernity and youth to their line (slimmer suits, brighter colors, you get the gist). Check them out, not only for some nice duds (although a bit expensive for my budget), but also for some upcoming #seersuckerday giveaways. Free stuff is always worth a look!

Who's got seersucker in their wardrobe? What's your favorite way to rock it?

The Hunt Is On...

Took a few days offline for some R&R while we had friends in town, but I'm back at it.

It’s still  a bit too early for a 'summer shopping list,' or even a spring one, but it's not too early to start hunting for some key pieces. A lot of spring/summer essentials are easy to find when it starts to warm up, but there are some that either remain frustratingly elusive in general, or that I’ve developed such critical tastes in that it takes me forever to find exactly what I want.

This year, there are three main items that I’ll be hunting:

The first is a lightweight blazer. This is a perfect example of that item that you can find everywhere, but that I can never find exactly what I want. I’ll be the first to admit that this is purely because I’m picky as hell, and know exactly what I want: An unlined blazer, made from cotton, linen, or a blend thereof, unstructured, with natural shoulders. I came really close with my Uniqlo blazer last summer, and I may very well end up with another from their line again this season, but I'm doing my damnedest to find something a bit less chopped, and with a slightly lower button stance.

This newly released option from J.Crew would probably be just about as perfect as it gets, but I'm not sure I can stomach the price quite yet:

Ludlow Unconstructed Sportcoat in Mini-Houndstooth Cotton | J.Crew - $188

Same goes for these options from Hugh & Crye (true, it's in wool, but a loose hop-sack weave that should breathe well in the heat) and Bonobos...fingers crossed that something ends up on a sale rack!

(Editor's Note: I didn't realize until I was formatting this to publish that the J.Crew option is actually the cheapest of all of these...that's going to be damn tempting if it's ever eligible for even a small discount...I'll be watching eagerly, for sure).

Next on my list is a new pair of Sperry Top-Siders. This is similar to the blazer in that, come summer, you can find Sperry's EVERYWHERE. Even better, you can always find some that are being offered for a crazy discounted price, but you usually have to take what you can get, as far as colors and styles go. However, after realizing last year that every pair goes on sale at some point, my tactic this year is to keep my eyes open, stay patient, and wait until I see that exact pair drop down to like, half price.  Last year I scored a pair of boat shoes in a classic brown color. This year I’m going to step out of the box a bit, either in navy, suede, or a two-tone combination. No bright colors, though, and no crazy contrast soles. Right now, I'm watching these in navy like a hawk for a good discount to pop up:

Gold Cup Authentic Original 2-Eye Original Boat Shoe | Sperry - $150

Last is one I’ll be hunting for truly because I can’t find any (at least at a price I can handle). I desperately want a lightweight, breezy linen shirt - but I want it in a dress cut that I can wear with a tie to the office - spread collar, slim fit, a little less rumpled, a little more pressed and proper. These do pop up now and then, but more often from high end shirt makers, while the affordable options tend to remain much more casual, beach-y with that 90's Miami vibe. Everlane has a line of slim linen shirts coming out later this summer that will probably fit the bill, but I don't know if I can wait that long! 

Coming soon at Everlane....

Meanwhile, I'm taking a trip to SF this month, so I'm going to swing into the Uniqlo store and see if their linen options will work until then (however, they don't offer a slim fit, so I have a feeling it's going to be on the loose side):

Premium Linen Long-Sleeve Shirt | Uniqlo - $29.90

 I'll keep y'all posted...

What are you hunting for this season? Share in the comments below:

Deals and Steals for the Weekend - 12/6/2013

Back at it again. To recap: "Every Friday, check in on the blog for a collection of the best (read: my favorite) deals and steals on the interweb for some quality shopping over the weekend. Have any to add? Share them in the comments or shoot me an e-mail. Also, if you're biting on any of these hooks, I'd love to hear about it!"

This week's Deals and Steals:


Faribault Woolen Mills Scarves via Sierra Trading Post:
Now hot damn, this is a good deal. STP is one of those places that can be pretty shitty with just one look-through, but if you consistently browse through their constantly changing products, prices and discount codes, you can stumble across some fantastic finds. Like these scarves! Faribault Woolen Mills makes a variety of wool goods, with their throw blankets getting a lot of hype.

Awning Stripe Scarf | Faribault Woolen Mills

Personally, I think their line of scarves is a knockout (and would all make good gifts). Enough color and pattern to never be boring, but in classic and subtle presentations that will go with anything you're bundling yourself up in. The regular $55 price, while not astronomical, can be a turn-off, but STP has them down to just around $14, aaaaand I'm about to buy every single damn one. Get on this one, it probably won't last long.
Ed. Note: My friend Rachel Dunbar (the gal behind Style Steno) found code SFBTD12113 which drops these down to under $10. Thanks Rachel!!!

Bonobos Extra 25% Off Holiday Sale (code SPRUCEDUP):
Of course, there are a ton of good options here, so take some time and browse through. Bonobos does do sales every so often, so if you don't see something you like, come back later. Personally, there's plenty for me to like. I'm especially digging this brown cords, which (sale included) drop down to a mere $42 or so (plus free shipping, as always from Bonobos).

French Corders | Bonobos

The color is fantastic for the season. Plus, I've recently been turned into an avid fan of Bonobos Chinos, and if these fit as well as my chinos do, I'll never be unhappy with them. No experience with tops from Bonobos, but they seem to know what they are doing, so it could be worth checking out.


The Tie Bar via Nordstrom:
I shop The Tie Bar all the time. Sure, they aren't made by hand, or in America, and sure, some of the designs are a bit tacky. But they have a solid selection of 100% natural-fiber (read: no polyester) ties, all at $15. Add to that a slew of tie bars and clips, socks, scarves, shoelaces, cuff links, money clips, holy heck I can't even remember what else, and it's hard to resist. ANYWAY, point is, I stumble across some of their offerings at Nordstrom.

Winter Ties (my picks) | The Tie Bar via Nordstrom

Pricing is all comparable, if not exactly the same, so it may not seem like a big deal. BUT! First of all, lovely Nordstrom offers free shipping, so you can get these to your door without spending an extra dime. On top of that, I'm pretty sure some of the current offerings on Nordstrom are no longer available through The Tie Bar, so, boo ya.

Another crazy J.Crew Factory code sale:

So J.Crew and their Factory Outlet have been getting all sorts of creative with their codes these days. Right now, JCF is offering 50%-60% off EVERYTHING, plus an additional 15% off and free shipping with code 12DAYS. With all that stacking up, there's plenty worth shopping here.

Warmspun Colorblock Raglan Sweater | J.Crew Factory

This factory warmspun color-block sweater ($38 after discount) caught my eye and is now dangling in my cart...to buy or not to buy. I think the color-blocking definitely gives it a more casual edge, probably not appropriate under a suit or with a shirt and tie. For a casual piece, though, it's damn sharp (mmmm....burgundy....Homer Simpson noise...), and could give a huge boost to any other-wise lackluster weekend outfit. Plus it looks cozy, and the heat is off as I type this so...yup. 

H.E. by Mango - November Collection up to 50% Off (use code 6THANKSMNG)

Have yet to take a bite with this brand, but I've heard some good things and their stuff looks very stylish. It's all modern, but not as trendy, flashy or 'euro' as things from H&M or even ASOS. Right now their entire November Collection is heavily discounted. The selection isn't huge, but there are some solid picks, like this Slim-Fit Check Shirt down to $40 (I've been on the hunt for a over-sized plaid/check shirt myself):

Slim-Fit Check Shirt | H.E. By Mango

Also have had my eye on their outerwear. Most of it didn't make this sale, but for a casual but cozy look, I could see myself in one of these puffer jackets, down to $60:

Foldable Feather Down Coat | H.E. by Mango

So what are you waiting for, get shopping!!! And really, share any more good finds in the comments, I'd love to find MORE things to spend my money on!!!

Deals and Steals for the Weekend - Black Friday Edition

I almost wasn't going to post at all since I'm home with the family, but it is Black Friday so I slapped together the following list of great holiday sales and some of my own picks. I'm sure I'll be shopping myself throughout the day, and I'll add any other finds I come across, so keep checking back for updates! (SEE UPDATES AT END OF POST)

Tie Society Annual Sale (no code needed):
For a limited time, Tie Society is offering a free month when you purchase a gift subscription or sign up for a new membership. On top of that, the first ten customers each day will receive a custom Tie Society flask.

You can check out our review of Tie Society here, but I'll tell you right now it's a helluva service. At its simplest, it's the Netflix of ties, but it's so much more. Head over and check it out, the offer stands through 12/2/13.


25% off at Beckett Simonon (code TURKEY):
Dub-monks are still all the rage in the menswear world, but it can be tough to find a decent pair without handing over your firstborn child. Enter Beckett Simonon, who offers Goodyear-welted shoes at a relatively-unheard of price of just $140, and their 25% Black Friday discount drops them down to a hella-affordable $105.

Hoyt Double Monk Straps | Beckett Simonon

The Beckett Simonon Hoyt Double-Monk features a rounded toe box with a cap-toe and semi-brogue detailing for a perfect balance of style and subtlety. Grab a pair, or check out their other, equally dashing options.


50% Off Sitewide at Express (through 12:00 PM 12/29):
Express is offering an awesome half-off sale on absolutely everything in their inventory. I don't shop at Express all that often, but they remain one of the few stores that offers truly fitted shirts that even super-scrawny folks like myself won't need to take to the tailor. I'm a big fan of this Tartan Plaid shirt, which is perfect for the holiday season.

Fitted Tartan Plaid Shirt | Express

Dress it down with jeans, or throw on a wool tie for some cozy biz-casual. At this point, the deal ends at noon on Black Friday, but I'm sure it will be replaced by something new. If I have the time and presence of mind, I'll check it out and keep you posted.


Five Days of Style - Frank & Oak's Black Friday Event (no code needed):
Frank & Oak only has sale items intermittently, and they usually have some great deals when they do, so I'm always sure to at least give them a look. This holiday, they have a lot of great shirts, many in seasonable flannel or chambray fabrics. I always tout their shirts, though, but this year my eye has really been drawn to their bags, and a few of those landed in this sale as well.

Hyde Mountaineering Backpack | Frank & Oak

I'm especially digging this 'mountaineering' pack. It's made of durable canvas with a drawstring closure and leather straps. I have a great brief-case-type bag for days in the office, but I'd love one of these when I'm lugging junk around on a weekend or a trip home to see the folks.


40% Off and Free Shipping (no minimum) at Levi's (code SAVE40):
Unless your a denim-head on the hunt for some crazy $200+ selvedge jeans, it's hard to argue with a pair of Levi's to meet all of your denim needs. On top of that, they have the quintessential denim trucker and a pretty solid line-up of non-denim duds as well.

513 Slim Straight Jeans in Bastion | Levi's

The Black Friday sale drops this pair of dark rinse jeans down to only $32, and free shipping is always a huge plus in my book. I actually just bought this same pair at a Nordstrom Rack sale and this price is even better than the steal that I found (and FYI, the jeans look and feel fantastic).


And on that note, my folks are calling my name for pie and to light the Menorah (in my wonderful multi-cultural home we are loving our Thankschristmukkah celebration while we are together) and dig into some pumpkin pie now that I've started to digest the T-day feast. Good luck shopping tomorrow, be sure to share any deals you find in the comments below!


UPDATES AS PROMISED:
A few more sales I've come across through the day:

Jack Spade: Up to 75% Off - These guys make some of the best outerwear and bags in the game.
Club Monaco: Extra 30% Off Sale Items + Free Shipping (code THANKS30) - Tons of good finds here, but I've especially had my eye on their sweaters.
Esquire: $5 Subscription Special - Always some good reading material.
Gap: 50% Off Sitewide (code BLKFRIDAY) - Again, lots to choose from, but I usually go for their slim Chinos.
J.Crew: 30% Off Sitewide (code HOLIDAY) - Can't go wrong with the Crew.
J.Crew Factory: 50% Off Sitewide (prices as marked) - if J.Crew itself is a bit rich for your blood.
Original Penguin: 40% Off + Free Shipping (code OPTHANKS40) - OP can be a little hit or miss, style-wise, but when they are on, boy are they on.
Florsheim: 20% Off Sitewide - Some solid shoes, I'm a big fan of their wingtip brogues, and the Gaffney boots look like they'd look great with some dark jeans and a blazer.
Pact: 30% Off Sitewide, up to 60% Off Sale Items, + Free Shipping (prices as marked) -  I love these socks, and my girlfriend does too. I'll definitely be gifting a few pairs of these this year.